S- 2000 pieces

[civicglacier]

Got her onto the ramp,.

Also bargained a full set of calibers with the deal which are much better than my currents.
Also didn't expect to get clutch and flywheel with it so happy enough.
Getting closer!

 

[mcmurray]

Good stuff mate. You'll be glad to hear it fire up once it's all in.

I've a set of grooved MTEC front discs in the shed for a S2K. You can have them for nothing if they're any use to you? Have done a few miles but looked like there was plenty of life left in them the last time I seen them.

 

[civicglacier]

Are they front and back Ryan? Just reread and saw they are fronts. Yea id deffo be interested, give you what you need for them.
Itching to drive it,

 

[mcmurray]

Are they front and back Ryan?
Itching to drive it,

Just fronts pal.

 

[civicglacier]

Think the standards in it are pretty decent, but when I get her going I'll shout you and we'll take her a run. ;-)

 

[civicglacier]

So, got the plates and insurance changed over today at 12 and I must say I absoloutely love it. So much more refined and smooth, gearbox is the best thing about it, surprisingly rapid also.

Both with the same plate until the new ni reg comes for the 3.

Just finished Claying and she'll get a buff tonight over a few beers.

 

[civicglacier]

Got it chamoised, then came the rain.

Paint is great on it but needs a lift so will buff it over he next bit.

S2000 engine in and getting wired, hopefully get a run by the weekend.

 

[civicglacier]

Hadn't posted in a while so thought I'd put a bit up.
Got the engine in and running and it is very good. No noises, knocks, flat spots, just very good going....... But,....... on the way to work last week the temperature went to boiling for about 10 miles and then back to 3 bars so I was freaking out in the motorway thinking it was going to **** itself.
Got off the motorway and,. Click click click click click with the motion of the car. Had to wait to get home to diagnose but it wasn't related to my temperature issue.

Also brought the car to get aligned before this and found that all of the camber bolts were seized and just yesterday say what I think is an EDC link/drop link that is broken.

Result. :

Went back to traynors where I got the engine and got the entire subframe/prop/diff/hubs all with 48,000 miles.

Going to strip, clean and rebuild the entire rear and then disassemble mine and replace with the full unit.

I ordered some hardrace rear adjustable camber arms, all new bushings, pillow ball joints, drive shaft spacers, tie rod ends and drop links. So she will be as good as new.
Also got a typhoon to go on , and then think about exhaust and brakes.

Rubber and alignment I'm looking forward to as every part should then have the freedom of movement they need.

Also, I have no mechanical experience but I must say that it only takes you to lie under it an hour to see how it all works. Never knew drop links connected to the anti roll bar so I'm learning everyday which is what I want.

 

[Neil_M]

This is a great build mate, keep at it.

You don't need experience just determination, patience and lots of tools!!

 

[civicglacier]

By the look of it it'll take the a few weeks but sure you could be at worse things. Although it looks dirty it's just really dust on the cradle and arms and they are not corroded so should be easy enough to paint and get refurbed.
Anyone done this process of refurbing arms,?
Best stuff to use for painting?

 

[Neil_M]

IMO your best getting it powder coated. Also much less hassle.

If you want to paint it yourself Hammerite will do an ok job, but it can be brittle and flake off.

POR-15 is a much more durable paint and can be brushed on. However it's not cheap.

 

[svensktoppen]

POR-15 will last longer than powder coating on suspension bits subjected to being constantly blasted by road debris. Easy to apply too.

Powder coating will look great though, and if it's mostly going to be a weekend track car that lives in a dry garage then it will be absolutely fine.

 

[Creaney]

canavans will powder coat everything for you. think he is reasonable enough.

 

[civicglacier]

Last post was over 5 months ago and by now I've realised that this DIY carry on takes a little longer than a few weeks.

Hadn't got near it in a while (4 months) and the planned trip certainly didn't happen but some progress all the same.

I would have to say that stripping the car/bits is one of the most painful things I've ever done. I have no real tools so seized geo bolts that need reciprocating saws and grinders I had to borrow for mates in evenings.

A few pics;

and the bits:

One I've pressed out, and other I'm not sure how to so I think it's going to be a hacksaw job or burn it out.

I cut the brake lines for the new braided ones later on as it was easier than loosening the brackets which remain on the coil over and attach to the caliber. Also tried for ages to get the ABS plastic sensor out of the hub but it was just stuck so had to batter it out and cut it. Then I found out they are not cheap and I've wrecked the front two so my mechanic says he'll take the rears out of the current rear chassis to transfer over.

Also made myself a basic tool board,. as the toolbox was pretty cramped ,

The new rear subframe is totally stripped and ready but at this stage I might also look at the diff and gearing

Next job is to press the rest of the bushings out of the arms and painting inside the wheel arches to tidy it all up before the new bits go on. Removing the original cradle that's still in the car will happen last probably and raise and bolt in the new refurbed one. Thinking a bit of a mad powdercoat color for the rear cradle and arms but am yet to decide.

Also sold the ATR and got the other plate onto the s2k so we're getting there.

 

[Neil_M]

Full steam ahead sir!

You've got a month or two for the first session .

Time for an impact gun and press for the bushes?

 

[mcmurray]

Fair play, I'm sure it's not quick and easy, especially without the proper tools. Will be worth it in the end.

You ever need a hand with anything, give me a shout, I'm only out the road.

 

[cormac81]

Saw the ATR at the last cars and coffee. Was a great buy for the new owner totally immaculate.

Keep up the good progress sir.

 

[civicglacier]

Got back into the car today. Decided to take the bumpers off and look at the entire frame now that I'm this far. Front end is good and not much other than a few bars to house the lights and mount the bumper to which are going to be refurbed with some sort of sealer/rust proof that I need to find out about and what to use. Any suggestions lads?

Rear crash barrier was pretty rusted so it'll be being replaced and I looked around for other rust anywhere on the body. I found 1 soft part behind the rear right hand mounting of the left hand side of the crash barrier which is covered by a shadow below but it is a hole.
so I poked it all out with a screwdriver and it'll take a very small weld.

Other than that the rest body is really clean.

Taking the wings off this afternoon and then get started into getting all the **** off the inside of the arches and whole she'll that I can get at. I was going to use a grinder with a wire brush but the mechanic said they can be dangerous enough in that the strands can fly off and you need a face mask etc. so he gave me this and said it should do the job.

Anyone done this before / advice,?

Just want to strip all the **** and dust off so I can paint the arches and rear section before the bits go on.

Suspension arms are still a work in process to get finished pressing everything out and then hopefully powder coating.

Few cheeky pics of the 5 after a wash,

 

[AndyG]

Good man doing all the work yourself. 90% of the fun for me of having a track car is working on it

 

[Neil_M]

Looks great man.

I'd recommend POR15 to coat metal as a paint style coating. Underseal wise I'd look at Bilt Hamber products.

 

[AndyG]

Just noticed the flappy discs it will eat trough metal fast so I’d be careful with it. Only take a small bit of rust and you’ll have a hole.

I done the whole underneath of my car with wire wheels on a grinder. The strands did fly of but just where safety glasses and you’ll be fine

 

[svensktoppen]

Another vote for por15, I use it for all sorts of chassis and suspension bits.

Minimum prep needed as well, just brush off any loose stuff and paint straight on, the rougher the surface the better. If it's a smooth surface then get the dedicated etch primer as well

Once set it will last forever and take any abuse. Remember to clean brushes etc. before it sets

 

[Neil_M]

Another vote for por15, I use it for all sorts of chassis and suspension bits.

Minimum prep needed as well, just brush off any loose stuff and paint straight on, the rougher the surface the better. If it's a smooth surface then get the dedicated etch primer as well

Once set it will last forever and take any abuse. Remember to clean brushes etc. before it sets

I actually just bought a box of the foam brushes similar to what comes with the POR15 starter pack. No cleaning required

 

[civicglacier]

Cheers for the replies and I’ll deffo be careful with the disc @AndyG
Maybe this is me being a little anal, but I want it to look like new, that’s why I was going to get the arms powder coated, purely for aesthetics, and then all the shiny new bits attached.

Im definitely going to track this but the more I work and change everything I’m starting to think that a fully refreshed s2k with only 48,000 miles could also be a rare enough collectible to have.

As the arches sit at the minute can you just spray paint the insides/wishbone mounts etc or is there a specific step process to use. Literally clueless on this front.

Will POR15 make them look like new or does it look rough enough but does the job in its entirety.

Also having such a handling match trying to find an exhaust,. I know what I want it to sound like but haven’t yet found it out of the millions of videos I’ve watched.
Cheers
R

 

[AndyG]

I did the same, took everything off and had it shot blasted and powder coated. Too the whole under side to bare metal and started fresh. It was a few months work but well worth it.

Have used the por 15 and it’s great and a lot quicker

Invidia exhausts sounds great on the s2000s