1979 Volvo Laplander 4x4 build

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740 diesels have 4+OD manual box, don't know if that makes any difference to you.
Yep the M46 is a good strong box, but mating it up to a 4x4 transfer box is a bit of a pain.

Anyway, since then I've had another change of plan. :joy:

I found some rot in the chassis, so I've given it to a welder fabricator nearby to sort that, he already made a new rear crossmember for it, and is going to replace a section of chassis rail in a few weeks. I've also found a set of ex military Land Rover Series 3 LWB axles which I'm going to get him to weld spring pads on to suit my leaf springs. The gearing is better for what I want, I can actually get spares for them if/when I break them, and I have a huge choice of wheels too.

Nice new crossmember:
20210405_143853.jpg


The front right end of the chassis is the worst bit by far, presumably because of how it was parked for 25 years. This started out as a pinhole, some poking with a screwdriver later:
20210605_181551.jpg


I could see a worrying amount of rusty crud inside the box, so got the slitting discs out:
20210605_182506.jpg


The metal that is there is way too thin for me to be happy with it, so that whole section, 3 or 4 foot long, is going to be made new. Before I build the chassis up I'm going to draw one up with all the necessary brackets etc. so in time I can make a stronger one and get it galvanised - maybe 10 years or so!

The engine choice has also changed. I did want the 2.5tdi VW 5 pot as used in 90s Volvos, but one aim is to have the engine mechanically controlled, I want to be able to wade through deep water in this without worrying about getting a crank sensor wet. Building a manual pump for a 5 cylinder sounds expensive as there aren't many off the shelf parts. The 5 speed box I was hoping to fit to make the most of the extra power and torque is also a lot weaker than the 4 speed, so the extra machining work to make it all fit, not to mention the extra length and weight of adding a cylinder and a gear, for it to be a compromise, seems not worth it. I'm collecting a 2003 Skoda Octavia next week, one that's never been a taxi! It's the ASV engine, 110bhp with the VE pump, so should hopefully be a good candidate for a manual pump conversion. I've got an adapter plate and flywheel from Sweden to fit it to my original gearbox which should make it a neat swap. Just need to strip that car whilst the chassis is away for welding, having to juggle for space at the moment.

The cab is coming on slowly but surely, it had loads of old underseal all over it, that's all gone, most of the rust is chopped out and I've made a start welding in new metal bracing up the front panel, and in the wheelarches/footwells. Floor pans are next, then door shuts and front panel. Then I need to pretty much fabricate new doors, and pick up a cab rear panel I've been offered (It's near Amsterdam though!) and the cab will be about done. :joy:

The front panel was rotten so I chopped that out, and the channel which makes up the structure at the front was rotten too, so that came out and was the first bit to be replaced.
20210309_180143.jpg


New channel in:
20210515_152234.jpg


Turned it on its roof to get at the underseal and clean it up to see what rust is there:
20210608_132112.jpg

Not too bad around the back - should be expected as that was all inside in the original body. The front edge of the wheelarches where they meet the floor though, that areas all rotten.
20210608_155014.jpg


A quick bit of Cardboard Aided Design had these:
20210608_155022.jpg

Which turned into these:
20210608_162345(1).jpg

20210608_165545(1).jpg


And now you're pretty much up to date! The next update should be a big one, with chassis welding, donor car stripping, axles to collect and cracking on with the work on the cab, I'm hoping to be at a point soon where I'm starting to actually bolt stuff together...
 

svensktoppen

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Brilliant 😎

A lot of work but you seem to enjoy it! Great to see one saved, and then used properly.
 

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18 months on and not much progress made. Haven't been able to do much this year as I moved away from where my workshop is, but 2023 is looking better in that regard.

I did buy the Skoda donor car, stripped it, and now have its engine mated to the original 4 speed gearbox and transfer box. I need to have a couple of parts machined to make the clutch work with this setup but it's mounted on the chassis at least.



20221226_122910.jpg

The cab is really pretty rotten but I'm getting there. Probably halfway to making it solid. I've just moved house over the border into Scotland, so can now work away at the cab at home this winter which should help speed things up.

20221226_122928.jpg


The chassis is now solid and sits on a pair of late series 3 109" Land Rover axles, still on drum brakes and not too wide for what I want. More modern axles might have been nice but I reckon these will be the best all round option.

Next year I'll get the body back on the chassis and get it running. I'm keeping the ECU from the Skoda so it will have some sensors but I'll be waterproofing them where I can. It sits pretty high in the chassis anyway so I'm not too worried about drowning it in water.
 

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Oh yes! Albeit another year of slooow progress. Its good to look back and see how much I've done over the last 5 years. It's certainly not an easy project building it the way I want.

20230804_145703.jpg 20230804_150115.jpg 20231114_191335.jpg

Since then I've moved house again, and for the first time I have my workshop next to the house, and I don't work on Fridays. In theory, perfect to get this done, in practice I keep finding other projects, another Volvo Amazon, exhuming a barn find Lotus, including now a VW Crafter camper conversion.

Back at the start of the year I took a bit of time off and got the cab floors, front panel and structure all done. The cab is now set on top of the chassis to sort out some rear body mounts, and the doors.

The engine is now turning over on a *******ised Audi 80 starter (took a few attempts to find a starter that would fit, with the right tooth count) and I'm getting a spacer made up for the clutch release bearing so it can reach the pressure plate.

I'm really pleased with the track width of the series Landy axles on Wolf wheels, they're bang on for the cab. I will be fitting taller tyres, these 235/75/16s look right on a Defender, but the Laplander needs a bit more sidewall really, and it can only help the gearing.
 

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Well spotted Andy, it's an old Bosch pumped 1.9 tdi from a 2003 Skoda, must be one of the last pre-PD engines.

The gearbox is the original one from the Laplander, it's the M45 as used in the 4 speed Volvo 240s, with the Volvo FD51 transfer box on the back of it.
 

NI_Volvo_Nut

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Well spotted Andy, it's an old Bosch pumped 1.9 tdi from a 2003 Skoda, must be one of the last pre-PD engines.

The gearbox is the original one from the Laplander, it's the M45 as used in the 4 speed Volvo 240s, with the Volvo FD51 transfer box on the back of it.
Nice combo!
 

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Just a few weeks between updates this time, as I tend to think to update this thread when I'm home around Christmas. I had a couple of days on it last week getting through some of the jobs I've been putting off for ages. I always seem to procrastinate with metalwork, but once I get into it I enjoy it.

When I scrapped off the rotten rear body, I lost 6 out of the original 8 body mounting points. The 2 remaining under the cab floors were rotten, so I had to redo them anyway. I wanted to keep the original brackets on the chassis, so have built these rear mounts, which I'll be bracing a bit more - but for now I'm happy! I've braced them to the cab structure for strength and they'll all sit on rubber mounts.

20231228_164926.jpg


Then I sorted the rot on the bottom of the passenger door - this was the better of the two so made sense to start with this. I'll clean the welds up properly when it comes time for paint, but for now just a coat of weld thru to protect it. It's handy that the doors are just on basic gate hinges, so the doors lift off in seconds. Fully expect to use it without doors in summer!

20230806_162739.jpg


20231228_174831.jpg


20231228_181943.jpg


Then it was on to the driver's door, the worse one! Ideally I'd have sourced a good replacement, but there are a few issues with that. These C202s were all built in Hungary using poor quality steel, whatever was available to the Soviets, and they only built around 2000 of these, so finding a good replacement or two will be impossible. The earlier Laplanders in the 50s and 60s were built in Sweden and are much more rust resistant, and were produced in higher numbers. The doors on these were a totally different pressing - the frames would probably fit but the C202 has those angular bulges on the doors and B pillars, which the earlier ones didn't. If I could find some better C202 doors, I'd be paying for a pallet from somewhere in Europe, and still have some repairs to do.

So with nothing to lose I started cutting rot out of the driver's door.
20231229_142530.jpg

20231229_161627.jpg

20231229_143928.jpg

20231229_162545.jpg

20231229_171716.jpg

20231230_173654.jpg

20231230_180500.jpg


And that's up to date! When I'm back over there I'm going to finish the driver's door, then there is a day or two's work in finishing off the cab welding, it'll be back off the chassis and upside down for some of that. I have a machined spacer on the clutch release bearing now too, so the engine and gearbox will soon be mounted on the chassis more permanently. Not far off the point of starting to build it up - mostly from scratch as with the engine swap and not much of the interior kept, it'll be a fair task.

Anyone want to buy an Amazon, or two?
20231230_162807.jpg
 

Graham

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Just a few weeks between updates this time, as I tend to think to update this thread when I'm home around Christmas. I had a couple of days on it last week getting through some of the jobs I've been putting off for ages. I always seem to procrastinate with metalwork, but once I get into it I enjoy it.

When I scrapped off the rotten rear body, I lost 6 out of the original 8 body mounting points. The 2 remaining under the cab floors were rotten, so I had to redo them anyway. I wanted to keep the original brackets on the chassis, so have built these rear mounts, which I'll be bracing a bit more - but for now I'm happy! I've braced them to the cab structure for strength and they'll all sit on rubber mounts.

View attachment 421092

Then I sorted the rot on the bottom of the passenger door - this was the better of the two so made sense to start with this. I'll clean the welds up properly when it comes time for paint, but for now just a coat of weld thru to protect it. It's handy that the doors are just on basic gate hinges, so the doors lift off in seconds. Fully expect to use it without doors in summer!

View attachment 421095

View attachment 421093

View attachment 421094

Then it was on to the driver's door, the worse one! Ideally I'd have sourced a good replacement, but there are a few issues with that. These C202s were all built in Hungary using poor quality steel, whatever was available to the Soviets, and they only built around 2000 of these, so finding a good replacement or two will be impossible. The earlier Laplanders in the 50s and 60s were built in Sweden and are much more rust resistant, and were produced in higher numbers. The doors on these were a totally different pressing - the frames would probably fit but the C202 has those angular bulges on the doors and B pillars, which the earlier ones didn't. If I could find some better C202 doors, I'd be paying for a pallet from somewhere in Europe, and still have some repairs to do.

So with nothing to lose I started cutting rot out of the driver's door.
View attachment 421096
View attachment 421097
View attachment 421098
View attachment 421099
View attachment 421100
View attachment 421101
View attachment 421102

And that's up to date! When I'm back over there I'm going to finish the driver's door, then there is a day or two's work in finishing off the cab welding, it'll be back off the chassis and upside down for some of that. I have a machined spacer on the clutch release bearing now too, so the engine and gearbox will soon be mounted on the chassis more permanently. Not far off the point of starting to build it up - mostly from scratch as with the engine swap and not much of the interior kept, it'll be a fair task.

Anyone want to buy an Amazon, or two?
View attachment 421103
That pair would fit well into the @svensktoppen stable!
 

FM155

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Just a few weeks between updates this time, as I tend to think to update this thread when I'm home around Christmas. I had a couple of days on it last week getting through some of the jobs I've been putting off for ages. I always seem to procrastinate with metalwork, but once I get into it I enjoy it.

When I scrapped off the rotten rear body, I lost 6 out of the original 8 body mounting points. The 2 remaining under the cab floors were rotten, so I had to redo them anyway. I wanted to keep the original brackets on the chassis, so have built these rear mounts, which I'll be bracing a bit more - but for now I'm happy! I've braced them to the cab structure for strength and they'll all sit on rubber mounts.

View attachment 421092

Then I sorted the rot on the bottom of the passenger door - this was the better of the two so made sense to start with this. I'll clean the welds up properly when it comes time for paint, but for now just a coat of weld thru to protect it. It's handy that the doors are just on basic gate hinges, so the doors lift off in seconds. Fully expect to use it without doors in summer!

View attachment 421095

View attachment 421093

View attachment 421094

Then it was on to the driver's door, the worse one! Ideally I'd have sourced a good replacement, but there are a few issues with that. These C202s were all built in Hungary using poor quality steel, whatever was available to the Soviets, and they only built around 2000 of these, so finding a good replacement or two will be impossible. The earlier Laplanders in the 50s and 60s were built in Sweden and are much more rust resistant, and were produced in higher numbers. The doors on these were a totally different pressing - the frames would probably fit but the C202 has those angular bulges on the doors and B pillars, which the earlier ones didn't. If I could find some better C202 doors, I'd be paying for a pallet from somewhere in Europe, and still have some repairs to do.

So with nothing to lose I started cutting rot out of the driver's door.
View attachment 421096
View attachment 421097
View attachment 421098
View attachment 421099
View attachment 421100
View attachment 421101
View attachment 421102

And that's up to date! When I'm back over there I'm going to finish the driver's door, then there is a day or two's work in finishing off the cab welding, it'll be back off the chassis and upside down for some of that. I have a machined spacer on the clutch release bearing now too, so the engine and gearbox will soon be mounted on the chassis more permanently. Not far off the point of starting to build it up - mostly from scratch as with the engine swap and not much of the interior kept, it'll be a fair task.

Anyone want to buy an Amazon, or two?
View attachment 421103
That estate is class!
 

ace275

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Never knew such a thing existed! That's seriously cool

Did you consider the old T4 2.4d 5 Cylinder? They're very basic. I remember my old T4 had basically no wires to it other than the starter motor and shut off valve to the pump, and there is a following for turbo converting them fairly easily.

(Know you're a little past this stage now however)
 

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Thanks!

Aye I had considered that, and also the ECU controlled turbo version used in the Volvo 850 and mk1 V70 tdi, I've had a few cars with that pre D5 engine and it's a great lump. The 5 pot VW engines share the bellhousing with the 6 pots, so I reckoned it would be possible to mate up to my original gearbox with some parts swapping - as the M45/M46/M47 family of gearboxes in this were also used in the Volvo 740, which had the option of a 6 cylinder VW LT engine.

In the end I decided that the 4 pot would be better suited to this, keeping weight down, and more central. The off the shelf adaptor plate made it simple enough too. I'm going to keep the fly by wire throttle pedal, as it's easier to route a couple of wires around all the gear and handbrake linkages that I need to wrap around the engine, than another bowden cable.
 

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Just at the boat after a week at home, itching to get back to this! Had a good look around Ged's 53 truck which helped motivate me.

I said in the last update that I'd never find some solid doors this side of Scandinavia. Half expected to be proved wrong within a week. Probably could do without them now but could be mad not to buy them all the same...

Screenshot_20240104_182129_Facebook.jpg


This guy had set the body on a Toyota Dyna chassis and running gear. Would probably make a great wee truck but it seems most of these ideas never get finished. Time I pulled my finger out.
 

svensktoppen

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Buy what you can when you find it. Hard to find, could be a while before something comes up again. Great to have to hand if you need any of it. You can always punt stuff on later if you have anything left over at the end.

Keep an eye on tradera.com as well, fair few random rare parts for random scandi cars come up there. Shipping is fine for most stuff, and no messing with VAT and all that balls when shipping to NI.
 

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Aye I've kept an eye on Tradera now and again, if I hadn't bought this C202 in the South of England I'd have been to Sweden for one by now...

Good point on sending stuff to NI and then taking it over to Scotland in the car.
 
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