2003 Vauxhall VX220 2.2

pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
Welllll - didnt survive yesterday completely unscathed. Driving home I could feel some play in the steering. Had a look tonight and discovered play in the upper UJ so ordered a new one (both UJs plus the shaft in between) at a fresh £100 :worried:

Better than a new rack I guess, and certainly vital to keeping it going in the desired direction.

 

svensktoppen

RMS Regular
Drives
S3, Elise
You're lucky your rack is good, it's an absolute pita to get back in again once you have it out!

Good news is if you do need to replace the rack you can get refurbished ones and they'll take your old one in return.
 

pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
well that was an upside down mission and a half. Not overly difficult but awkward. Because I wanted to replace both UJs and the slack was at the top the "easiest" way is to remove the dash and undo the steering column and work at the top. All great in theory but awkward as hell.

Quick test drive with the dash off (just in case) and all feels a million times better. riser plates later, cant be arsed tonight.

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seanmooney

RMS Regular
Location
Armagh
Drives
Corsa C and MK6
You definitely know your way round the vx220.

Im half afraid to remove much from the car because most things are hard to get now.
 

svensktoppen

RMS Regular
Drives
S3, Elise
Yes, everything just bolts on/off. No assisted this or electronic that or whatever, just cables and racks and nuts and bolts.

Just everything is very tight.

The later S2 cars have aircon and ABS and other stuff you don't need, lol. Not sure about the VX.
 

pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
yeah it looks scary but actually very straightforward in the end.

anyway, wrapped up the steering work by refitting the dash properly and fitting the rack riser plates. Straightforward all round but again its just awkward. Also raised the rear by 10mm using my new nitron adjuster (think c spanner for small areas). Was pure sh!te and bent after a few mins.

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pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
More fun. When I got the alignment done they couldn’t free one TRE so decided to change them both. What a balls freeing the locknut. Blowtorch out and pipe wrench at it got it off but new TRE didn’t come with a new locknut and mine is pure mangled. Will try to pick up some new ones tomorrow.

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svensktoppen

RMS Regular
Drives
S3, Elise
I have a special tool for the height adjustment, got mine from Elise Parts. It's good quality and holds up well. It also has an angled tip, not just the straight one on yours, which is a god send.

No chance getting an actual c-spanner in there, lol.

They can take a bit of force to adjust. The holes in the rings will eventually wear out, but by that time it's time for a refurbishment anyway.
 

svensktoppen

RMS Regular
Drives
S3, Elise
Oh, looks quite different from mine.

Send it back, they're very helpful and good at sorting things out. If shouldn't break so soon.
 

pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
After going round half the country managed to get some M12 x 1.25 nuts to replace the mullered lock nut on the drivers side. Pass side took 15mins so both front TREs all done now. Will take it back round for another alignment so its driving straight again for track on 3rd Nov.

Got nice thick nuts so more surface in the future.

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seanmooney

RMS Regular
Location
Armagh
Drives
Corsa C and MK6
The black touches tie it all together nicely

I should of had mine out yesterday for a spin but was child minding.

Need to get a catch up some time and get a look round yours.
 

pablo

RMS Moderator
Location
Glengrimley
so, last trackday of 2019 looming and last chance to get my cams track tested before the big break over winter. Me being me dived right in with only half an idea what I was doing. Last time I done cams I didnt tighten a pulley tight enough and it came off on the RR :weary_face:

Anyway, armed with a rather vague DIY guide I gave it a skim and got stuck in. The hardest part was always going to be getting the chain and pullies to keep their timing. Of course I was too lazy to a) buy the locking tool and b) strip the bottom end to mark the bottom end of the chain.

So, I made a brace to sit across the engine bay opening that I could hook the pullies to and cable tied the chain to the pullies to stop them jumping a tooth. Ended up fiddly enough but afterwards I done a few hand rotations of the engine (using the road wheel and in 5th) and it all seemed fine. If it had have went pear shaped I would have just stripped the covers off and retimed it.

Went out for a "gentle" shakedown to make sure the cams didnt launch themselves out the side of the clam which turned into some redline runs that proved the cams were a good mod. Feels more "go-y" up top and combined with the 2.4 inlet manifold and ecu remap (limiter up to 7k) it really does rev well now.

Bring on the 3rd Nov!


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