Welllll - didnt survive yesterday completely unscathed. Driving home I could feel some play in the steering. Had a look tonight and discovered play in the upper UJ so ordered a new one (both UJs plus the shaft in between) at a fresh £100
Better than a new rack I guess, and certainly vital to keeping it going in the desired direction.
well that was an upside down mission and a half. Not overly difficult but awkward. Because I wanted to replace both UJs and the slack was at the top the "easiest" way is to remove the dash and undo the steering column and work at the top. All great in theory but awkward as hell.
Quick test drive with the dash off (just in case) and all feels a million times better. riser plates later, cant be arsed tonight.
yeah it looks scary but actually very straightforward in the end.
anyway, wrapped up the steering work by refitting the dash properly and fitting the rack riser plates. Straightforward all round but again its just awkward. Also raised the rear by 10mm using my new nitron adjuster (think c spanner for small areas). Was pure sh!te and bent after a few mins.
More fun. When I got the alignment done they couldn’t free one TRE so decided to change them both. What a balls freeing the locknut. Blowtorch out and pipe wrench at it got it off but new TRE didn’t come with a new locknut and mine is pure mangled. Will try to pick up some new ones tomorrow.
After going round half the country managed to get some M12 x 1.25 nuts to replace the mullered lock nut on the drivers side. Pass side took 15mins so both front TREs all done now. Will take it back round for another alignment so its driving straight again for track on 3rd Nov.
Got nice thick nuts so more surface in the future.
so, last trackday of 2019 looming and last chance to get my cams track tested before the big break over winter. Me being me dived right in with only half an idea what I was doing. Last time I done cams I didnt tighten a pulley tight enough and it came off on the RR
Anyway, armed with a rather vague DIY guide I gave it a skim and got stuck in. The hardest part was always going to be getting the chain and pullies to keep their timing. Of course I was too lazy to a) buy the locking tool and b) strip the bottom end to mark the bottom end of the chain.
So, I made a brace to sit across the engine bay opening that I could hook the pullies to and cable tied the chain to the pullies to stop them jumping a tooth. Ended up fiddly enough but afterwards I done a few hand rotations of the engine (using the road wheel and in 5th) and it all seemed fine. If it had have went pear shaped I would have just stripped the covers off and retimed it.
Went out for a "gentle" shakedown to make sure the cams didnt launch themselves out the side of the clam which turned into some redline runs that proved the cams were a good mod. Feels more "go-y" up top and combined with the 2.4 inlet manifold and ecu remap (limiter up to 7k) it really does rev well now.