71 project beetle ( with turbo )

56oval

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56oval
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A few things happened this week which has kicked my backside into gear.

The Sold As Seen podcast with @Cooper and @Big Pimp

That was so much fun to do and i really enjoyed my time with them. We covered a lot of stuff which i hope gave you all something remotely interesting to listen to πŸ™ˆ

Finally after 3 months wait. My camshaft finally arrived from the u.s. its a Web 218 turbo grind on 108 lobe centres.

This should give me an extra 1000 rpm on the table subject to how i build it.

The engine is going to go through a full rebuild process, which i'll happily document on this thread. There will be some expense as there are jobs that are out if my capability. The block will almost definately need an align bore. There is a fair amount of end float in the crank and usually that means the rear main bearing has been pounding the rear saddle of the block.

Usually you can thrust cut this area and use a new rear main bearing with a thicker thrust shoulder to suit. Or.. clean up the thrust, then cut a custom bearing to suit, which i prefer.

We will see when it comes apart. The engine is a complete unknown, im amazed its lasted as long as it has. The valves are starting to float on boost, you can really hear them plus a distinct drop in power when they start walking around uncontrolled 🀣.

All my customer jobs are done and away except for a couple of sets of carbs im waiting on parts for.


So this morning, i dunged out the garage, tidied everything up and im now ready for the car to go up on axle stands and get the motor pulled out of it.

The plan is to keep it cheap again. But prices of parts are expensive now. Rings, bearings etc all add up. Im hoping the heads dont have cracks between the valve seats which is common. That could cause me a headache.

Until its apart we will never know.

Best get on with it.
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stevieturbo

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cracks between valve seats are common on a load of engines....rarely does it actually be a problem though
 

56oval

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Thats it pretty much all stripped down.

A quick measure up and things look like this.

Block is bored 1.5 over.
2mm thrust cut
Crank is .25 over.

Not keen on the size of the thrust cut but i can work around it.

Will get the entire block cleaned properly then take it up to my machine shop and dial bore it.

If it measures out ok then its just a case of new bearings throughout.

Crank looks ok, no major scoring so may just take a polish.

Rod bearings were surprisingly good but will still go in the bin. Small end bushes will be replaced.

Not too horrendous to be honest.

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56oval

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56oval
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"And our survey said"
Scrap 🀣

Rear main thrust is about 10 thou over the limit.

I have another block with standard bore and thrust which i'll clean up and get align bored.

Let the expense commence 😁
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Rigger

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"And our survey said"
Scrap 🀣

Rear main thrust is about 10 thou over the limit.

I have another block with standard bore and thrust which i'll clean up and get align bored.

Let the expense commence 😁View attachment 378732
I take it any sort of repair is prohibitley expensive? Shame you can't use all the original parts, but hey wear and tear eh. Looking forward to seeing the rebuild.
 

56oval

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I take it any sort of repair is prohibitley expensive? Shame you can't use all the original parts, but hey wear and tear eh. Looking forward to seeing the rebuild.
I have a block here thats never been touched. It will be far cheaper for me to have this one first align bored than it will to try and make the other one a viable long term unit. Its just too worn out.

Cylinder head strip down this week. They need everything.

I pressed out the valve guides on one head. Then started the arduous process of removing the years of carbon and crud.

No cracks at all which is good. However i have a broken cooling fin on one which really isnt a drama, it can be very easily welded and doesnt effect the heads integrity.

Next step will be to remove the guides in the other head .

I need to make up an angle plate fixture. As the valve angle obviously isnt parallel to the head, when putting the new guides in its going to need to be perfectly in plane with the guide.

I plan to do all the cylinder head work at home using basic tools , i could send them to Comiskys but its something i really want to do myself.

They will be ported, 3 angle valve seat job, new guides, stainless valves and retainers with solid rocker shafts.

The seat job us going to take some patience but i think i can do it.

The crank needs a grind, its .25 over in the mains and standard on the ends. Ill just get it ground .50,.25 and it should clean up nicely.

Couldnt find my valve spring compressor anywhere ( think i loaned it out) so had to improvise πŸ˜‚
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FM155

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Class! I've been modifying heads for years and love it, I find it very theraputic. I'll be interested to see how you do the 3 angle seats at home too. I've done a couple of MX5 heads recently but had issues with the getting the angle right in the press and snapped one off in the head so going to go with putting the guides in the freezer and heating the head a little which I've done before. Bought a stepped drift to knock them back in after I've finished modifying the guides. Looking to get a 3D printed bushing tool that sits in the follower bore to make sure I don't go off beam this time...πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
 

56oval

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Class! I've been modifying heads for years and love it, I find it very theraputic. I'll be interested to see how you do the 3 angle seats at home too. I've done a couple of MX5 heads recently but had issues with the getting the angle right in the press and snapped one off in the head so going to go with putting the guides in the freezer and heating the head a little which I've done before. Bought a stepped drift to knock them back in after I've finished modifying the guides. Looking to get a 3D printed bushing tool that sits in the follower bore to make sure I don't go off beam this time...πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
Ill be modifying the guides, shortening them for a start they are so long, the exhaust guide will end up pretty much cut back to the port wall. As you, i will freeze the guides and chuck the head in the oven. Then fire them in with the press on the angle plate. Ive ported tonnes of heads over the years but never done my own valve job or guides.
 

FM155

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I made my angle plate from 4" wooden post offcuts that I had lying about because it was easy to make and I didn't have to worry about damaging the face of the head. Worked OK but my press is one of the cheapy sealey bottle jobs and it was a bit unstable which led to the guide getting mullered.

I still have an old sykes picivant seat cutters that I used on the old a and b series heads but they aren't much use on hardened inserts but I've used them to put a lead in and out chamfer on seats.
 

56oval

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I made my angle plate from 4" wooden post offcuts that I had lying about because it was easy to make and I didn't have to worry about damaging the face of the head. Worked OK but my press is one of the cheapy sealey bottle jobs and it was a bit unstable which led to the guide getting mullered.

I still have an old sykes picivant seat cutters that I used on the old a and b series heads but they aren't much use on hardened inserts but I've used them to put a lead in and out chamfer on seats.
You only muller them if you arent 100% square when you apply pressure. Ill agree with you on that when i stuff it up πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
 
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