BMW Experts? E90 330D Problems

RevT

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Bought a new daily driver last week and it lasted all of four days before quitting on me lol..

I have had it plugged in and have a few error codes, some are relating to different things.

I would like to speak to someone who knows these well and are familiar with common problems.

I tried messaging @Nicky but it wouldn't let me.

Anyone else know these cars/engines well?

Thanks in advance.
 

RevT

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RevT
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What error codes it giving?

Driving perfect for four days. Day 5 on way to work it just cut the engine at about 60/70mph - no warnings/no lights. Tried starting again but kept turning over. Released the key and put it in again and fired first go and drove another 10 miles.

Exact same again next day on way to work. Stopped once then fired after removing the key again and drove on about 10 miles.

On way home from work again and it cut out, started once, drove a few hundred miles then stopped and wouldn't start again. Kept turning over.

Few error codes coming up, some more than likely unrelated to what the actual problem is. I haven't had a chance to get the car home yet and it's still stuck at a family members house near to where it broke down. Just hoping someone with expertise on these engines can shed some light on this rather than giving it to a mechanic who would trial and error basically.

4152 - Swirl flap actuator - activation.
43E2 - Throttle valve actuator - activation.
4020 - Exhaust temperature sensor before particulate filter - bank 1 - signal.
4166 - Particulate filter system - bank 1.
4560 - Rail pressure plausibility delivery controlled.
4570 - Rail pressure plausibility delivery controlled.
47C8 - Injector - cylinder 6 - activation.
47B8 - Injector - cylinder 5 - activation.

Looks to be 5 and 6 injectors at fault probably bringing down the fuel pressure and causing it to cut out but as I say, I haven't got the car home yet to start looking at it.

Thanks for any advice.
 

lackingBHP

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Had a 320d compact years ago do that and fire up all those codes and it was the timing chain, there was no rattle or anything coming from it. Replaced it and all was fine.
 

DavidY

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I wouldn't go by what the fault codes say alone. A lot of those fault codes can be brought up from just one of those systems being at fault.

Sorry I can't be any more help though, my 335d ran flawlessly......
 

RevT

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RevT
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I wouldn't go by what the fault codes say alone. A lot of those fault codes can be brought up from just one of those systems being at fault.

Sorry I can't be any more help though, my 335d ran flawlessly......

Yea that's why I'm asking for some experience to maybe assist as there is no point replacing stuff just because an error message is showing.

All signs point to fuel being cut to some extent though.
 

RevT

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RevT
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I haven't got the car down home yet again. Those errors were from after the first day of it messing about. The errors could have changed at this stage but as I say, I haven't had it home. Will it be possible to check those with an Autel machine? Also, is there a guideline of what they should be?
 

RevT

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Why do you think a mechanic would "trial and error basically"? Maybe you need a new mechanic?

It's what most seem to do these days. It's very tough to get a true mechanic these days, most are fitters. I'll have it home in the morning and I'll start looking into things a bit more then.
 

davey-dimples

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It's what most seem to do these days. It's very tough to get a true mechanic these days, most are fitters. I'll have it home in the morning and I'll start looking into things a bit more then.

Most seem to rely on a computer telling them what is wrong too ...
 

Cro

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To be fair with new cars like the e9x you almost need a computer to find out what's wrong or you would be checking all sorts. No idea if autel can check dpf data Trevor I only ever used the BMW software
 

chrisQ

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I've had various older e46 and e90 320 and 330D's and the odd e60 with inlet ports getting clogged up in inlet manifold and causing the swirl flaps to stick causing underpowered issues and cutting out etc due to not being able to brathe correctly with the swirl flaps being stuck closed. Personally if it were mine I'd take the swirl flaps out off the manifold completely. Blanking kits are availible on ebay or I've heard off people doing it other ways too! Theres two sizes of blanking kits from memory so make sure you get the right ones if thats the route you decide to take. Also do a leak off test on injectors.... with some diagnostic softare you can do a injector smooth running test via the computer...while on the computer check the DPF status reading 's etc too as she'll maybe need a regen carried out
 

RevT

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RevT
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Whats the dpf efficiency and regen cycle figures?

Tried this using my Autel and it's saying it can't be enabled. When I enable it and request a regen it's not letting it happen. I ran the check to find out when it last carried one out and it says 20K ago.
 

RevT

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RevT
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I've had various older e46 and e90 320 and 330D's and the odd e60 with inlet ports getting clogged up in inlet manifold and causing the swirl flaps to stick causing underpowered issues and cutting out etc due to not being able to brathe correctly with the swirl flaps being stuck closed. Personally if it were mine I'd take the swirl flaps out off the manifold completely. Blanking kits are availible on ebay or I've heard off people doing it other ways too! Theres two sizes of blanking kits from memory so make sure you get the right ones if thats the route you decide to take. Also do a leak off test on injectors.... with some diagnostic softare you can do a injector smooth running test via the computer...while on the computer check the DPF status reading 's etc too as she'll maybe need a regen carried out

I had already ordered swirl flap blanks and still waiting on them. Took into stripping the manifold off today though, it's caked with carbon deposits, in around the swirl flaps, EGR and throttle body was the same too so I've cleaned them all out and ready to be refitted when I get the swirl flap blanks. I still have an error with the throttle valve actuator though.

Also changed all the glow plugs and turbo filter (I know this would have no effect on my problems).

I had injector 4, 5 and 6 tested today at a local place. They are saying they are fine. Leak off test lastnight signalled the same but problem is it couldn't be carried out properly as the pig kept dying out after about 3-4 seconds now.

I ran a fuel rail pressure live data check and it when the car was running it was almost bang on the specified value.

Now it's starting and dying instantly again after 1-3 seconds. It's saying 374 bar of pressure as specified with just ignition on but actual value is sitting at about 25 bar until I press the start button then it creeps up to 370 or so and starts but then cuts out again right away. Should the actual value already be sitting at 370 as soon as the ignition is on or is this normal?

A mate with the same car is calling in tomorrow and I'm going to plug it in to check the live data for fuel rail pressure for ignition then when starting and see how it reads. I may then try his EGR and throttle valve if mine is still messing around when I get the blanks and have it built back up.
 

Dandy

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Rail pressure value can't go up with the car not running/turning over...did you clear all the faults start it up and re-scan to see what came back?
 

RevT

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Rail pressure value can't go up with the car not running/turning over...did you clear all the faults start it up and re-scan to see what came back?

That's what I was assuming.

Yes and it only brought up throttle valve actuator, swirl flap actuator and exhaust gas temp sensor before particulate filter. Issue is she won't run now any more than about 3 seconds so I can't let her idle for any length of time and let her die out that way. 4, 5 and 6 injector were the only injectors it ever mentioned.
 

RevT

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RevT
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These are the only faults that returned after it runs and cuts out.



These are a couple of the extra faults that showed up at a stage but were cleared. Injector 5 has flagged up again a couple of times and so did 4. That's why I've had 4/5/6 tested but they're saying they are good and not faulty.

 

Cro

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If it's been 20k since you had a regen, i'd put money on that being blocked. Not necessarily the initial cause of the problem but it needs to have a pretty much errorless system to run regens, a couple like 2 or more glow plugs and it shuts down

Could be something like the exhaust temp sensor has the knock on effect and caused problems in all the other codes
 
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