Celica T Sport / Subaru STI hatch

[Gambit]

So far I'm thinking new open deck block, forged pistons and rods, nitrided crank, new acl bearings, uprated gaskets and skim the old heads... along with anything else deemed worthwhile.

id advise going with what your builder advises.....likes of new block/crank may not be necessary unless damaged - i'm still using original block and crank and the car has 120k mile on it.

at one point i was looking at the this - Subaru WRX STi USDM Type RA EJ257 Short Block Engine Motor - as i assumed my block would be unrepairable due to stud damage

 

[subie_andy33]

id advise going with what your builder advises.....likes of new block/crank may not be necessary unless damaged - i'm still using original block and crank and the car has 120k mile on it.

at one point i was looking at the this - Subaru WRX STi USDM Type RA EJ257 Short Block Engine Motor - as i assumed my block would be unrepairable due to stud damage

I've heard from two builders that a new block may be needed. Something to do with the potential hassles of getting new pistons to fit correctly without a lot of machine work, but it's something I will run past the guy I think i'm going with. Mine is on 75k so cant see the block being tired out just yet.

I've looked into the RA block as its easy enough to get from ICP and really wouldn't require nearly as much work to drop it in. Id imagine we are talking half the cost compared to forged but from what I've read it doesn't seem to be enough of a step up from my standard block and it wont really give me peace of mind. The americans claim 400whp is easily achieved on the RA short block but then the Americans consider it normal to rebuild an STI once a year and map stock blocks to 400+ horsepower so I dont trust their opinions lol

 

[Gambit]

I've heard from two builders that a new block may be needed. Something to do with the potential hassles of getting new pistons to fit correctly without a lot of machine work, but it's something I will run past the guy I think i'm going with. Mine is on 75k so cant see the block being tired out just yet.

I've looked into the RA block as its easy enough to get from ICP and really wouldn't require nearly as much work to drop it in. Id imagine we are talking half the cost compared to forged but from what I've read it doesn't seem to be enough of a step up from my standard block and it wont really give me peace of mind. The americans claim 400whp is easily achieved on the RA short block but then the Americans consider it normal to rebuild an STI once a year and map stock blocks to 400+ horsepower so I dont trust their opinions lol

yeah only issue would be if there was ovalling of the bores but that wont be known till its out so i guess they're just setting you up for worst case scenario

The reason i considered RA block was because @bludgod reckoned the original piston damage was always only OE map related from new and if I got a fresh block with the better pistons and a custom map to suit then it would be a lot safer piston wise. and could still go with updated gaskets/studs etc

 

[AMG]

I've heard from two builders that a new block may be needed. Something to do with the potential hassles of getting new pistons to fit correctly without a lot of machine work, but it's something I will run past the guy I think i'm going with. Mine is on 75k so cant see the block being tired out just yet.

I've looked into the RA block as its easy enough to get from ICP and really wouldn't require nearly as much work to drop it in. Id imagine we are talking half the cost compared to forged but from what I've read it doesn't seem to be enough of a step up from my standard block and it wont really give me peace of mind. The americans claim 400whp is easily achieved on the RA short block but then the Americans consider it normal to rebuild an STI once a year and map stock blocks to 400+ horsepower so I dont trust their opinions lol

You from south down area I take it? Can give you a number of guy beside me that would work on a lot of Subarus if you want, might give you another option?

 

[Gambit]

You from south down area I take it? Can give you a number of guy beside me that would work on a lot of Subarus if you want, might give you another option?

Jonny Hawthorne?

 

[Con]

SS II celicas are getting rare enough these days..love it

 

[subie_andy33]

yeah only issue would be if there was ovalling of the bores but that wont be known till its out so i guess they're just setting you up for worst case scenario

The reason i considered RA block was because @bludgod reckoned the original piston damage was always only OE map related from new and if I got a fresh block with the better pistons and a custom map to suit then it would be a lot safer piston wise. and could still go with updated gaskets/studs etc

Its certainly an option im considering. Currently looks like ill be waiting a few months, maybe into next year to get a rebuild done. I just think forged its more "one and done" and I have peace of mind if I decide to uprate the turbo/injectors etc and go for more power later on. Possibly the RA block would work just fine with more power though, but hard to be sure.

You from south down area I take it? Can give you a number of guy beside me that would work on a lot of Subarus if you want, might give you another option?

Yeah, South Down, and I have Jonny Hawthorne and Murray Motorsport on my doorstep - but if you know someone else worth considering then let me know. Cant hurt to get multiple opinions.

SS II celicas are getting rare enough these days..love it

Cheers. It was a nice car and sorry to see it go. I can see myself doing a 2zz swap on an mr2 down the line, loved the Celicas engine but felt the front wheel drive let it down a little.

 

[Gambit]

Its certainly an option im considering. Currently looks like ill be waiting a few months, maybe into next year to get a rebuild done. I just think forged its more "one and done" and I have peace of mind if I decide to uprate the turbo/injectors etc and go for more power later on. Possibly the RA block would work just fine with more power though, but hard to be sure.

yeah i guess if you look at it that way given yours is still standard as such, mine was sort of set already as id already done everything else - as wasn't expecting to rebuild an already forged engine

 

[subie_andy33]

yeah i guess if you look at it that way given yours is still standard as such, mine was sort of set already as id already done everything else - as wasn't expecting to rebuild an already forged engine

Just gone through your thread again and ill say that your story certainly scares me, but I guess engine rebuilds and issues are part of the scooby life and I genuinely like mine enough to fork out the cash. A failure in an already forged engine is just gutting though.

Yeah, no real upgraded components in my engine at all. Wont have the omega pistons and other components that you already had to swap into the RA block unfortunately.

 

[CharlySkunkWeed]

With mine I always said I'd just drive away and if it needed rebuilt I'd do it. But when it actually happened I was gutted. Even when I got it back all safe and sound I just couldn't get it out of my head.

 

[subie_andy33]

With mine I always said I'd just drive away and if it needed rebuilt I'd do it. But when it actually happened I was gutted. Even when I got it back all safe and sound I just couldn't get it out of my head.

I think that's exactly why so many get rid of subarus after a rebuild. They just don't trust the car anymore.

Maybe I will feel that way after but for me, i've done so much to the car already and I've almost enjoyed the process of building it up as much as driving it so a forged rebuild just feels like a piece of the project that was going to get done eventually anyway. If it goes after a rebuild... well lets not talk about that

Then there's the fact that the car has done 75k miles on a standard engine and i've done 10k in three years on it and I know both me and the previous owner didn't exactly baby it - yet its lasted just fine so far bar minor head gasket issues. A forged engine is bound to last for the rest of the time I have the car (and hopefully well beyond) as long as I keep up with maintenance as I have been.

Having said that though, I can now see a post in about a years time where I update on how my forged engine blew after 2k miles...

 

[subie_andy33]

Just a quick update. I've been a little less interested in the cars lately with mine giving hassle but progress still being made.

I pulled the trigger on the engine build. I've gone with OCS performance/Johnny Hawthorne for the rebuild. Hes local to me and highly recommended, so just waiting on him getting time for my build.

Currently sitting in boxes in my room I have:

Fuji Oil baffle plate/oil pick up kit
12mm oil pump
New EJ257 block
BC/Fuji H beam rods
RCM Omega pistons (standard drop in bore)
11mm ARP head studs
ACL bearings
OEM nitrided crank
Exedy pink box clutch
Harvey trick up pipe
lots of various seals/gaskets and other good stuff

Plan is a fairly conservative 'fully forged' build. Engine should be safe to about 450bhp but no real plans to go this far. For the time being ill be getting it rebuilt with the stock turbo and injectors, but i'm hoping that the harvey trick up pipe and porting of headers should increase spool up and I should actually see an increase in real world performance even with stock turbo. The combination of better oil transfer and a 4th cylinder cooling mod should (in theory) make this a fairly reliable setup when done.

Car is still going at present but coolant is bubbling more and more often as I take it out. Not properly overheating yet, but itll probably get there.

Only other little update is that I fitted some LED fogs for a JEEP wrangler and went back to oem bezels. Just saw them on ebay and seemed to be a suitable size. They were a faff to fit up properly, had to dremel half of the housing away, and wire into the stock fog location/plugs, but I think it's a nice upgrade. Really notice the extra output from them and they match the aftermarket headlights. Not that they get used much anyway...

 

[subie_andy33]

Another quiet day in work... another update.

The car recently had an odd upset, oil spraying over the turbo leading to billowing smoke from the bonnet and boosting issues. Think Ive tracked it backed to just a bad seal near the turbo, but rolled it into the shed to look into it. As is typical Ive looked into everything else except the turbo... but will get round to it next week hopefully. Ive decided to just SORN the car now for the next few months as itll be getting its rebuilt engine next spring anyway.

While in the shed i decided to tackle the rear suspension and replace a driveshaft that Ive been intending to do the last few months. There has been a vibration through the floor that has worsened over the year and the passenger rear axle was seen to have some sort of wobble/whip in it while run on the lift, so figured id start there.

To get at the axle the rear lca and toe arm had to come off. I've had adjustable units for a while now as my last alignment showed that the rear suspension was a bit of a mess (unsure if it was to do with just the whiteline springs or what has caused it) and the lack of adjustability made it impossible for the guys at Ivan Kerr to bring it back to correct specs. So i've fitted some superpro gt86 camber arms (same part number as GR STI I discovered) along with fuji racing toe arms. Excuse the potato camera pics.

Ive also taken the time to spray lanoguard over literally everything here. It sets clear and seems to work well from what Ive heard, so seems ideal instead of the usual messy dinitrol over all my shiny new parts!

In the bay I have fitted a mishimoto steel airbox. It was a bit tatty so I wrapped it in heat reflective tape. Looks purposeful and it's easier than repainting it. I highly doubt this will have any performance benefit, but I have almost totally sealed the box from the engine bay heat with the tape, rubber trim and a landrover fuel neck gasket (yeah...), so I figure that the flow of cold air from the grill vents and vents by the foglights should keep temps at the intake low and prevent heat soak, so potentially more consistency with air temps... Even if it does nothing I like the look of it in the bay and it makes it feel like the grill holes have more purpose.

In other news, I recently discovered the remnants of an AFR and boost gauge. I always wondered why there was a random o2 sensor screwed into the downpipe! Ive decided to just use these existing sesnors/boost lines to fit gauges myself. I liked the smy dual gauge pod that can be found on ebay but didnt want to pay £160 for it. Bought a second hand hood and moulding 52mm pods into it myself, will then paint and flock it. Ive seen an option for a similar pod setup from England for £80 pre flocked, so may just get that if this project turns out crap.

Finally, having had a clio diffuser lying around for over a year and the exhaust backbox currently removed, I thought id mock it up to the car. I decided to cut the sides off and am thinking of having it almost 'float' just below the rear bumper like most of the aftermarket options, rather than trying to mould it to the bumper. The plan is to paint and attach it and then have the exhaust modified to two single exits rather than the quad exhaust currently. Unsure if its worth the effort but at least I have a bit of an idea if itll work or not.

 

[Gambit]

fair amount of work - ive that wee mishimoto airbox also, my problem is my hotside of intercooler pipe runs through it under the filter lol

if youd managed to get that rear valance to fit without trimming sides it would have look class.

when is the engine build commencing?

mine went for brake overhaul the other week - one of the bleed nipples stripped in caliper...had to go Engerland to be repaired as he trusts no one locally to do it properly...pain though done an picking it up today

 

[subie_andy33]

fair amount of work - ive that wee mishimoto airbox also, my problem is my hotside of intercooler pipe runs through it under the filter lol

if youd managed to get that rear valance to fit without trimming sides it would have look class.

when is the engine build commencing?

mine went for brake overhaul the other week - one of the bleed nipples stripped in caliper...had to go Engerland to be repaired as he trusts no one locally to do it properly...pain though done an picking it up today

Well, the airbox probably only tidies up the bay anyway. Highly doubt I'll see worthwhile improvements from it

Keeping the valance in one piece was the plan. I wanted to mould it to the bumper and make it look oem. But exhaust holes don't line up correctly and I realised it'd be big work getting a custom cat back to fit with it, nevermind the difficulty of blending it to my bumper properly. I may get another sometime and try again, but for now I'm just going more for a bolt on diffuser look like some of the aftermarket stuff

So, engine build is to be around March time as far as I'm aware. Just in time for getting it back out after winter weather and salt!

I almost sent my calipers to godspeed in England for refresh, but needed to stop spending haha! Apparently very common for nipples to strip but at least you're getting it repaired.