Clutch heavier after remap ?

[Mac1987]

Got my audi a4 130 tdi Remapped yesterday & although it seems to drive well the clutch feels heavier/harder to push in when you dip it, also when releasing the clutch there feels to be quite abit of resistance like the clutch is pushing your foot out more than before, I spoke to a guy on the phone there who works at the place were i got it remapped and he said no the remap wouldn't be nothing to do with that. anyone any thoughts on this or had experienced this before after a remap ?

 

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Did they rolling road it or test drive it?

 

[Mac1987]

Did they rolling road it or test drive it?

Both, took it from 137hp up to 183

 

[pobmk4]

Remapping is software..... unfortunately this can sometimes have an adverse effect on some mechanical wear parts.

You're clutch will be one of these items that you'll shorten the life of, it's one of the things you have to bear in mind when tuning a vehicle especially with higher miles on it

 

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

My guess would be the testing has trashed an already weak clutch.

 

[gcon45]

Yep as above.
As the plate wears the pedal will get harder.
It’s a consequence of the extra torque.
It’ll probably start slipping soon unfortunately.

 

[Mac1987]

There's 125k on her so she's no spring chicken but drives well, before the map was done it was a nice & light silky smooth clutch albeit maybe with abit of a high biting point...

 

[Ben P]

Its the huge jump in torque. Thats the killer or "weak part highlighter" lol.

 

[colin84]

I had mine done to the same bhp, with only 80k on it. It wasn't long until the flywheel was rattling, then eventually the clutch started slipping.

It is a fair jump up in power and torque from standard.

 

[roverspeed]

I had a 1.9 Passat Remapped from 105 to 150 ish.

But I was well aware it would need a clutch and flywheel not too long after, it was on 176,000. They lasted until about 205,000

Though I can honestly say, the clutch didn't feel any different after the map.

Perhaps they have done an aggressive torque curve?

 

[Mac1987]

Got the car put back to the original software/bhp there. Couldn't be arsed with headaches like Fly wheels, clutches & turbos going ect, although I'll probably put a new clutch in it in the future. Plenty enough lift in it at 137bhp anyway, suppose as the saying goes if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

[Lyons]

Did the clutch return to normal?

 

[Mac1987]

Did the clutch return to normal?

Nah still feels the same, But as people said above the clutch prior to the remap was probaly worn & when they upped the power considerably & rolling roaded it ect it probaly put that extra bit of strain on it & Provoked it. Prior to giving the car to them i actually said i didnt want Big power coz i didn't want to damage clutch, fly wheels, & turbos, ect & i said i wanted the lightest map out of there 3 maps on offer but they instead actually took it upon themselves to Give the car a More powerful map than i wanted Which i was abit shocked about & abit unhappy about. I could of got them to tune it down to the lighter map That i originally wanted in the first place but i thought to hell with it ill just put it back to Stock, Bit of a waste of money for me but sure ya live & learn. Was just looking at clutchs there & theres so many makes/brands to choose from id like to know what make audi put in them stock coz id go with that & keep it original.

 

[RevT]

You can’t really go wrong with LUK or Sachs in my opinion.

 

[Mac1987]

You can’t really go wrong with LUK or Sachs in my opinion.

Yeah there the 2 i was actually thinking of. I was on carparts4less last night & they got a Sachs clutch kit for £112 or around that Plus at the moment they got a 20% christmas discount so even abit cheaper which isnt to bad. I think the LUK clutch kits are abit more expensive.

 

[pizza85]

if changing the clutch anyway would you not have kept the remap?

 

[Mac1987]

if changing the clutch anyway would you not have kept the remap?

Because when you stick a clutch init then your fly wheel will go & you'll have to upgrade that to a fly wheel that can handle more torque, then your turbo will probably blow then basically the car will become a money pit. It's driving very well as it is basically the main reason why i wanted a light remap ( 20bhp more maximum) was because the egr was weeping oil so i thought if i get the erg deleted/blanked then that would stop thee oil leak, But you can't do an egr delete without remapping it otherwise you'll have faultcodes lights on the dash ect which i dont want. If it had of got the less BHP map ( what i wanted) the clutch & fly wheel ect would probably be alright i did contemplate getting the map reduced to the lesser BHP one but after getting a higher map which i didn't want & the clutch stiffening up it left abit of a bad taste in my mouth & i was like screw it just put it back to standard. It was abit of a kafuffle to actually get them to return it to standard & initially they seemed reluctant to do so ' insisting to me that it was fine & to leave it, even though i never wanted that sort of power put on the car they clearly never heard the term ' the customers always right ' & obviously don't work to customers requirements. But eventually after abit of back & forth they sorted it so I'm not going to slate them to much, alot of people give them great reviews & i seen a good few forum members on here use them & are happy with the service they receive but i wouldn't be using them again.

 

[DJMCA]

You certainly can get the EGR deleted with out remapping the ECU performance wise.

Ive had several remapped cars and it doesnt affect the feel of the clutch

 

[Mac1987]

You certainly can get the EGR deleted with out remapping the ECU performance wise.

Ive had several remapped cars and it doesnt affect the feel of the clutch

I asked about that & was told if they deleted the egr alone it would throw up a fault code so to counter that they remap it to get rid of the code. Im just gonna buy a new egr to coz as i say my one is weeping abit of oil not alot but abit.

 

[DJMCA]

You do need the EGR programmed out or it will throw up a fault code however you dont need to remap the ECU performance wise. Diesel cars will always have a bit of oil in the EGR/intake, especially if they have mileage on them. If you want to keep the EGR just take it off and clean it well, they gunk up with all the crap.

 

[greyfloppyhat]

There is a lever down by your right foot to help adjust the power of the map, it should help prolong the clutch's lifespan

With some mechanical sympathy a new standard clutch and flywheel will cope with the remap, so wouldn't worry about upgrading. Just stick with a good brand like sachs

 

[Mac1987]

I actually cleaned Egr out not long ago ( which actually really Helped in performance ) But the little breath holes on the side at the top of the egr still weep oil. Ive been told theres a spindle inside the egr that moves up and down and a seal has gone & oil is geeting past were it should and is oozing out the wee holes, You remedy that by getting a new egr

 

[Dandy]

I asked about that & was told if they deleted the egr alone it would throw up a fault code so to counter that they remap it to get rid of the code. Im just gonna buy a new egr to coz as i say my one is weeping abit of oil not alot but abit.

As said you can map out the egr without having any faults, and still leave it at standard bhp.

 

[roverspeed]

The way it's mapped makes a big difference too, especially on diesels.

Rubbish maps tend to have a big wall of torque to make it "feel"much faster, a good map will increase torque and bhp add maintain a similar torque curve. Or correct a poor one (see Passat)

Depending on the car, there can be quite a big buffer on what a good condition oem clutch and flywheel can handle. How that extra torque is deployed is important.

In my passat, the low down felt largely similar, but it kept pulling until redline, unlike standard which had nothing up top.

On my insignia, the curves feel the same but just faster. It has the same clutch and gearbox as the 195bhp model, so 163 to 200 or thereabouts I deemed as safe. And touchwood, it's been spot on.

Had it's first ever clutch and flywheel at 211,000 miles