Coil Spring Snapped on Mondeo

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SpannerRash

New Member
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2
Drives
Mondeo
Hi all,


Seems that I have been hit by the coil spring saga on my 2001 Mondeo.


Front Off Side spring has snapped towards the base, roughly 4 inches in from the bevelled/tapered end.


I have purchased another spring and a set of spring compressors and intend on losing a bit of skin doing this myself outside the house. I know I should leave this to the experts in a garage and I should be replacing both sides but needs must, money dictates the game we play and I will get around to doing the other side at another time.


Firstly, can anyone give me an idea of the spanner/socket sizes required for this? I have a selection but don’t want to start this and then get stuck with incorrect tools. I have a selection of metric and Whitworth. Most of them are old and the sockets have seen better days and seem to be cheap naff that no longer have their shape. Not looking good already.


As far as I can tell by having a closer look, this particular job requires the following spanners/sockets but unsure of exact sizes so would appreciate some clarification on these from anyone who has done this or who knows the process on a 2001 (51) Zetec Mondeo 1.8. In burgundy red. (I hear red ones are easier to do!)


Spanner/Socket Requirements?


3 x top nuts = 13 mm?

1 x top strut nut = mm?

1 x Main pinch bolt holding base of strut = 15 mm?

1 x Brake hose bracket nut = mm?

1 x Sub-frame support arm bracket nut = mm?

1 x Steering arm/ball joint nut = mm?


That’s the spanners sorted.


I also only have the one small car jack that was supplied with the car and is in the boot. Jacks up from the side of the car and not from underneath. Any suggestions on any requirements to improve on or add to this?


Now the actual donkey work and process involved.


My understanding of this from reading other disjointed and stark information may be completely wrong so before I actually follow this process I was needing to pass it to you guys for any necessary alterations to the following process if possible. This is what I had envisaged doing……right or wrong!


  1. Slacken wheel nuts

  2. Jack up right side of car

  3. Remove wheel

  4. Remove nut/bolt from brake hose bracket?

  5. Remove nut/bolt from top of sub-frame support arm/swing arm?

  6. Remove Main pinch bolt holding base of strut?

  7. Compress springs – if at all required at this or any point during dismantling?

  8. Remove top 3 nuts from top of the strut?

  9. Tap down on wishbone frame arm with mash/lump hammer to slide/release base of strut from recess?

  10. Remove strut assembly completely?

  11. Remove center top nut from strut?

  12. Remove snapped spring?

  13. Slacken off spring compressors if fitted?

  14. Compress new spring?

  15. Re - install new spring on strut assembly?

  16. Tighten top centre strut nut?

  17. Remove spring compressors?

  18. Insert new strut unit by positioning 3 top bolts first but kept loose?

  19. Use jemmy bar to force wishbone down and insert base of strut back into its recess?

  20. Reposition strut base into recess at correct depth?

  21. Tighten top 3 nuts?

  22. Tighten main pinch bolt to strut?

  23. Reconnect brake hose bracket?

  24. Reconnect top of sub-frame support arm/swing arm?

  25. Wheel back on.

  26. Jack down

  27. Tighten wheel nuts

  28. Apply plasters to cut hands and fingers.

  29. Whinge like a good-un to the misses that I should have taken it to a garage.

  30. Await the snapping sound of the front nearside spring next week.

  31. Sell the car and buy a Vauxhall or a bicycle.

Sounds so easy when I look back at that. We’ll see.


Anyhow, I’m not even sure I have the correct order of process or if I’ve missed a step or two. I have read that others have completely removed the brake calliper and also split the ball joint but I have also read that others didn’t bother doing this so I have left those out of my process. I may be wrong?


To assist and help others for future ref, I plan to come back with photos and a complete breakdown of my own experience on this process as it happens to me, warts and all, but for now I would really appreciate some help before I go outside in this weather and try to do this.


Thanks.
 
Last edited:

chris_b

RMS Regular
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11,657
Drives
A car
Welcome to RMS (y)

Not massively familiar with the mondeo but just one thing, can the strut intact with spring not be completely removed from the bottom arm and taken out ? This would be the preferable way to do it as working with spring compressors within the confines of the inner arch will be zero fun and there are lots of things that could go wrong.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge than I will be along soon but it sounds like you have done your homework already
 

SpannerRash

New Member
OP
S
Messages
2
Drives
Mondeo
Welcome to RMS (y)

Not massively familiar with the mondeo but just one thing, can the strut intact with spring not be completely removed from the bottom arm and taken out ? This would be the preferable way to do it as working with spring compressors within the confines of the inner arch will be zero fun and there are lots of things that could go wrong.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge than I will be along soon but it sounds like you have done your homework already

Thanks Chris.


I am hoping that I won’t need to use the spring compressors in situ to get the spring out as it is a tight space to work in and I don’t have an air gun.


My main concern with this was that although the spring has snapped, there is still likely to be some power in it and I don’t know how that will be released once I start to remove the strut in situ.

I need to make sure that my homework is right as it comes from information from many different sources that may not be correct at all.
 
Last edited:

garyhoker

RMS Regular
Messages
890
Location
belfast
Drives
honda
hello .problem you might have main one i the 15MM bolt threw hub to strut will be tight bit of heat take your time move back and forward slowly if you break it ou will have to drill it out .... remove caliper and brake pipe from strut,,,remove bottom ball joint plenty off dw40. abs sensor if fitted from plug 15mm antiroll bar drop link . when hub is off put axle stand on hub or it will pull driveshaft out ........3 13mm nuts on top off strut stut is out fit spring ,, hope ur spring compressers are long.fit spring then the rest in reverse order
 

fleety

RMS Regular
Messages
224
I broke a spring in my mondeo a year or so back, new spring 20-30 quid from local motor factors and paid £30 to get it fitted. Oil free hands for me, if you take on this work yourself be careful as if the spring breaks free from clamps you won't have time to run.
 

Apis

RMS Regular
Messages
4,085
Location
NW
Drives
various
Yeah, get the whole strut out before you start trying to remove the spring.
One other thing, when you go to slacken or refit the suspension it be an advantage to replace the jack with an axle stand/wooden block, then jack up the other side so the car and suspension is level. That takes the pressure off the anti roll bar and can make it easier to work at removing or refitting the strut. Think about how the ARB works and you'll understand what I mean.
 
Last edited:

Antoin

RMS Regular
Messages
7,301
Location
Portstewart
Drives
E60 535d
I broke a spring in my mondeo a year or so back, new spring 20-30 quid from local motor factors and paid £30 to get it fitted. Oil free hands for me, if you take on this work yourself be careful as if the spring breaks free from clamps you won't have time to run.

You wont even have time to blink!
I eventually splashed out on a decent set of compressors rather than use the wee hook versions as they scared the life out of me!
 

steviestdi

RMS Regular
Messages
625
Drives
Bora&Impreza sti
As already said remove the complete hub along with the shock. it will be much easier to take of the drive shaft nut and balljoint nuts than trying to hammer the hub down from the shock. I actually think the subframe needs lowered slightly to fully remove the hub from shock when in place.
Id also get a top strut bearing for each side as id be 99% certain theyll will be worn out when you have them removed.
 

Daviddunlop83

RMS Regular
Messages
8,197
Location
N.Ireland
As said remove the whole hub, it's bery difficult and can damage it trying to hammer the hub off the shock

The easiest was to do it without dropping the sub frame is to but a new rear bottom arm bolt and cut the head off the old one (it's in from top down so can't get it out unless you drop subframe) then you can remove the shock with hub and bottom arm all together. Replace new bolt from bottom up (nut on top) means you'll not have to try and align the sub frame but still need your tracking done after
 
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