Turbo'd Locost Kit Car - chasing 300bhp!
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IL
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I'm not overly experienced in the setup of axles but my understanding is that the 4 link bars are best parallel with the ground at your desired ride height.
So the front mounts might be best moved up slightly, the axle looks to be in full droop at the moment?
I'm not overly experienced in the setup of axles but my understanding is that the 4 link bars are best parallel with the ground at your desired ride height.
So the front mounts might be best moved up slightly, the axle looks to be in full droop at the moment?
slickcell
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Thanks mate. Yeah, the four trailing arms should be parallel when at ride height. I was looking at this last night and wondering how it would sit in that respect as I noticed the same thing - it will depend on how much sag there is with it's full weight on the ground so, what you've suggested might need required. I have seen a number of Locosts with multiple holds drilled in the chassis trailing arm mounts so it shouldn't be an issue if needs be.
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You can have extra holes to tune the squat etc. I think the top arm controls that.
"Sag" isn't an issue because you can control the height with the coilover platform once its fully loaded.
slickcell
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Yeah, I suppose so!
I'm currently working on the position of the wishbone brackets. The guys at Procomp, who set up Locosts for racing in England have been kind enough to give me some advice regarding position of the mounting points. I was advised that with the lower wishbone level, the upper wishbone should ideally have a 5 degree angle. That positions my brackets/arms something like so:
However, when retaining the original upper shock mounting position beneath the upper rail, it angles the shock very dramatically and I am wondering if this is ok? Bearing in mind that the lower wishbone is level, i.e. what it would be when at ride height, the shock would surely compress with full weight and therefore the shock won't be positioned at such a dramatic angle like this?
Would it be more appropriate to position the shocks like so:
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slickcell
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I've just switched the shocks around as I realised I had the front shocks in the rear LOL! Now I've got the front sorted and I don't think I will need to reposition the mounts:
Now however, I have a 16" open length rear shock, which will be far too big! More stuff bought incorrectly!!
I do have about 2 inches of space where I could reposition axle shock mount lower down. The Ron Champion book suggests doing this and has pictures for reference where another builder has done this to accommodate a longer shock. Can you think of any reason why this shouldn't be done? The pic below shows the front shock mounted and it fits fine, however, I could position the new shock mount directly below by 2 inches in the hope that the 16" shock would work fine?
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Just pick up on the same bolt going through the top link and machine a spacer for between the shock bush & inboard side of 4 link bracket
https://get.google.com/albumarchive...a&authKey=COTX74z74tGXiQE#5963284957218382738
https://get.google.com/albumarchive...a&authKey=COTX74z74tGXiQE#5963284957218382738
slickcell
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So I got a good run at the car today and started out with the aim of having it rolling....
Repositioning the upper shock mounts to allow for a shock angle of 30 degrees from vertical meant squaring up the top rails.
Another jig for the top wishbone mounts kept everything square and a mirror image on each side.
One side finished:
Many hours later and after repositioning the rear shock mounts to accommodate the longer rear shocks (please ignore the extremely positive camber for now - there's plenty of adjustment there to rectify later):
At this point, the bodywork had to go on lol:
Waheeeyy, its rolling!
Repositioning the upper shock mounts to allow for a shock angle of 30 degrees from vertical meant squaring up the top rails.
Another jig for the top wishbone mounts kept everything square and a mirror image on each side.
One side finished:
Many hours later and after repositioning the rear shock mounts to accommodate the longer rear shocks (please ignore the extremely positive camber for now - there's plenty of adjustment there to rectify later):
At this point, the bodywork had to go on lol:
Waheeeyy, its rolling!
slickcell
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Happy days, top mounts moved will give you a better input from the shocker.
I wish I could get as much time in then garage as you!
Haha my girlfriend is VERY understanding lol. Yeah, the guys at procomp have been keeping me right. I moved the top mount as far out as I could and with the bottom shock mount 90mm from the ball joint, I ended up with a 35 degree shock angle. I think MK indy have around 45 degrees and are notoriously twitchy, whereas a Westfield has around 32 degrees. I'm told Westfields handle significantly better so mine shouldn't be too far off.
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Great work and taking the time to photograph and let us all see it. Would love to do something like this if I had the patience and time.
One thing worth a try for setting frameworks and brackets up is a parallel clamp or toolmakers clamp. When you get the hang of them they are far easier to use and adjust than a G clamp. Quite easy to make them too.
One thing worth a try for setting frameworks and brackets up is a parallel clamp or toolmakers clamp. When you get the hang of them they are far easier to use and adjust than a G clamp. Quite easy to make them too.
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I was down at Kirkistown track day today and got a look around this
It's a fireblade turbo engined Sylva Striker. Awesome!
David Mutch’s old car, it’s actually the only other 7 I know that runs an Atlas axle. I thought it had been sold back to Scotland!
slickcell
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Thanks mate. The aim is to have it at the very least, driving back and forth in the garage by March so we must push on! lol I heard of some builds literally taking years and I have no idea how! Surely these people actually want to drive these things?!
slickcell
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That's right! It has a baby atlas which is considerably narrower than mine but it certainly has no issues with the extra weight of it. I believe it runs around 200bhp and the engine was built by Jack Frost (the man famous for putting turbos on motorbikes lol).
Not keen on the front of it to be honest, but I am sure it's functional.
It was running over 200bhp when David had it but it could well be turned down now. It's certainly a rabit thing in a straight line!
I'd say more builds take years than those that take months! I know personally I just wouldn't have the time to devote to it, feck I've been rebuilding mine since September and I think I've ticked one thing off my list in that time and it's nothing like starting from scratch!!
I'd say more builds take years than those that take months! I know personally I just wouldn't have the time to devote to it, feck I've been rebuilding mine since September and I think I've ticked one thing off my list in that time and it's nothing like starting from scratch!!
slickcell
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Yeah it could possibly have been turned down. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't slow - it overtook a McLaren 650s down the straight without an issue lol.
P.S. If I didn't see myself driving this thing during the summer, I don't think I would have the longterm incentive to keep building it! lol.
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The summer isn't that far away!!
Wait until you get your head melted for 5 days straight, in the middle of the wiring loom with a pair of side cutters in your hand.
Your looking at the Jerry Can and the box of matches, but you decide closing the garage door & Summer 2020 is a better Target!
Good luck
slickcell
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The summer isn't that far away!!
Wait until you get your head melted for 5 days straight, in the middle of the wiring loom with a pair of side cutters in your hand.
Your looking at the Jerry Can and the box of matches, but you decide closing the garage door & Summer 2020 is a better Target!
Good luck
Haha, no way!! It will be on the road for the summer - mark my words!