Neil_M

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Neil_M
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Sounds good, Honda engines are very well built tolerance wise so my advice would be to not over think things or over pay for the build work

4P should be able to tell you exactly what VTC angle to use with your chosen piston and cam combination. Get the block bored to the right PTW clearance, get the rings gapped properly and build it up with the rod bearings clearances on the loose side of Honda clearances and you should have a good reliable engine on track

Interesting... I just want it done right :grinning:.

4P have of course given me a steer, they guys are incredibly helpful. But they do of course suggest measuring it to be 100% sure.

I haven't asked around quite yet, but I'll see what everyone says when I get to that stage :grinning:.
Some very nice parts there. Interested to see the difference they make.

Thanks Ian, me too :grinning:.

It should make very healthy power figures, the cams aren't too wild and it should be very responsive. It should still be pretty tractable :cool: .
 

StephenDc2

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1,947
Interesting... I just want it done right :grinning:.

4P have of course given me a steer, they guys are incredibly helpful. But they do of course suggest measuring it to be 100% sure.

I haven't asked around quite yet, but I'll see what everyone says when I get to that stage :grinning:.


Thanks Ian, me too :grinning:.

It should make very healthy power figures, the cams aren't too wild and it should be very responsive. It should still be pretty tractable :cool: .


Just don’t over think things, if the clearances are right and everything kept clean when assembled and torqued to spec then you won’t have any problems

there are plenty of companies out there who will charge you a lot of money for a very average job
 

Neil_M

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Neil_M
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Christ! I thought I was a bit on the crazy side of nuts, lol, but you're even worse 😅

Have fun :cool:

LOL! I don't doubt it will lack any fun when sorted :joy: .

Just don’t over think things, if the clearances are right and everything kept clean when assembled and torqued to spec then you won’t have any problems

there are plenty of companies out there who will charge you a lot of money for a very average job

Thanks man I appreciate the input. Lack of knowledge here so I'd have to rely on peoples honesty!
 

bob

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3,118
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I’m sure you can’t wait for that first track day with the new bits, bound to be a wee flyer 👍🏻
 

Neil_M

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Neil_M
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I’m sure you can’t wait for that first track day with the new bits, bound to be a wee flyer 👍🏻

Your damm right Bob. I'm a fair way off getting to my next track day never mind the engine.

I'm actually quite interested to see what the response of the engine is like with the lighter components... forgetting about any horsepower / torque increases.

My aim is a third of something like this LOL!

 

Neil_M

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Neil_M
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Neil you going for the 4P oil pump?

I sure am man, I actually bought it last year directly from 4Piston :grinning: it was a bargain. I've a new OE water pump sitting in the garage etc too.

The specs on the oil pump support pressure to 11,000 RPM :monkey:.

That was before the UK suppliers started buying them and nailing on their premium.
 

EF Ian

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Thanks Ian, me too :grinning:.

It should make very healthy power figures, the cams aren't too wild and it should be very responsive. It should still be pretty tractable :cool: .
Good choice, shouldn't be too peaky then and should see some nice midrange.
 

Neil_M

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Neil_M
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Good choice, shouldn't be too peaky then and should see some nice midrange.

Hopefully so.

Part of that is to be gentle in the timing chain and tensioners. As you well know many of the aftermarket cams are not friendly to it.
 

EF Ian

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Something certainly wasn't gentle on my timing tensioner on my B series, it lasted not much more than 4000 miles.
 

otaylor254

RMS Member
Messages
2
Hi Neil_M

I have found this thread via the YouTube video for removing the Air con system, and i am using your guide which has been really useful so far!

One question- when removing the two lines from the bulkhead, is there a specific technique or something else to remove other than the 2x 10mm nuts? Is it then just a case of giving them a pull to release the o-rings?

Many thanks
Oli
 

Neil_M

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Neil_M
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Hi Neil_M

I have found this thread via the YouTube video for removing the Air con system, and i am using your guide which has been really useful so far!

One question- when removing the two lines from the bulkhead, is there a specific technique or something else to remove other than the 2x 10mm nuts? Is it then just a case of giving them a pull to release the o-rings?

Many thanks
Oli

Hi Oli,

Glad it's been of help.

Yep you are quite right, once the screws have been removed, you just need to pull them past the o-rings. Naturally they may need a little jiggling.

Cheers,
Neil
 

otaylor254

RMS Member
Messages
2
Hi Oli,

Glad it's been of help.

Yep you are quite right, once the screws have been removed, you just need to pull them past the o-rings. Naturally they may need a little jiggling.

Cheers,
Neil

Awesome thanks for that Neil, and great thread!
 
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