Need Advice on building Sub Boxes
- Thread starter Rus872k3
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andy_gdon
RMS Regular
Get what?
andy_gdon
RMS Regular
Didnt find it much of a problem. However, when i do find something difficult i dont walk away from it with out giving myself a chance to improve.
Why take on GNVQ manufacturing last year then if GCSE Technology was too difficult?
Why take on GNVQ manufacturing last year then if GCSE Technology was too difficult?
andy_gdon
RMS Regular
never mind dude.
pablo
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try doing alevel art - that would sort you out :?
-Pete-
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not getting at those who said to use silicon or those who do but:
Once the box is assembled, seal all the joins on the inside of the box with silicon
you'll need some MDF, silicone, staple gun, glue and carpet/alcantar or whatever u want to cover it with
not getting at those who said to use silicon or those who do but:
shouldnt use silicon to seal boxes or for the joins!
know that really pungent smell that comes from silicone, it degrades and can affect the voice coil on subwoofers or any speaker for that matter, ask anyone who understands the technical side of speakers or subs, a far better solution adn a better technique is to use somthing like liquide nails or no more nails
after making sure the edges of your sub box are square ready to be joined,
predrill the mdf for your screws to avoid splitting it
then run a length of no more nails or your preffered grip fill type adhesive aloong each contact edge of the two peices you are about to join,
and then put the two peices together and screw in the screws,
as the screws tighten and pull the two peices of mdf together they will squeeze the adhesive out each side and therefore creating a glued and screwed joint that is far stronger as well as ensuring a 100% airtight sealed box or joint!!
andy_gdon
RMS Regular
gripfill is similar to silicone. As long as you let the silicone cure it will be fine!! Built a few boxes using it and my subs were not affected
pablo
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i always used no more nails or gripfill (whichever came to hand first in B&Q) and never had a prob.
only voicecoil issue i had was with 1.2kw into a jl sub
only voicecoil issue i had was with 1.2kw into a jl sub
-Pete-
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yeh it is similar but it isnt an adhesive and there is still the vapour even after curing as we all know, still best not to use the silicon sealant as a box building material. liquid nails or no more nails on the other hand also sets solid and creates a lot stronger a joint on each part of the box while still creating a perfect airtight seal.
I say if you want to do it yourself then go for it!
But if you want show stopping looks and performance then you won't get this on your first or second go.
First decision is sub size:
You have 2 10's and as discuessed these will be punchier than 12's, but not go as low, but a 15 will go lower than a 12.
If your stuck with these 10's or want to go ahead anyway and see what it sounds like keep'er lit!
Ported or boxed:
As discussed aboved also ported's are generally lower an softer than sealed. They can also be very 'one-notish'. They are also box and port sizing is critcal to their performance.
Sealed will give good allround performance for most subs (if they're not designed for ported enclosures like mine are). They are really good for high power handling if well sealed. Sizing is not as critcal to getting a good performance. Generally err on slightly bigger than slightly smaller, as the sound wont be as affected (and you can always stick a few stones in if its too big to take up some space!)
I've heard also that silcone can weaken the glue between the foam surround and the cone.
I've used gripfill on boxes and no ill effects noticed so far
The best thing is try to get the manufacuters specs for the size of the box and build to them.
Its not rocket science, its not that hard, but take your time to double check the size you need, the height, width, depth in your boot, and what size you need to cut your wood up and then do it.
A sheet of 18mm MDF is not dear, just what the power tools.
A square box is easiest to make and calculate the volume for if you want it real easy
All the best,
Onion
But if you want show stopping looks and performance then you won't get this on your first or second go.
First decision is sub size:
You have 2 10's and as discuessed these will be punchier than 12's, but not go as low, but a 15 will go lower than a 12.
If your stuck with these 10's or want to go ahead anyway and see what it sounds like keep'er lit!
Ported or boxed:
As discussed aboved also ported's are generally lower an softer than sealed. They can also be very 'one-notish'. They are also box and port sizing is critcal to their performance.
Sealed will give good allround performance for most subs (if they're not designed for ported enclosures like mine are). They are really good for high power handling if well sealed. Sizing is not as critcal to getting a good performance. Generally err on slightly bigger than slightly smaller, as the sound wont be as affected (and you can always stick a few stones
in if its too big to take up some space!)I've heard also that silcone can weaken the glue between the foam surround and the cone.
I've used gripfill on boxes and no ill effects noticed so far
The best thing is try to get the manufacuters specs for the size of the box and build to them.
Its not rocket science, its not that hard, but take your time to double check the size you need, the height, width, depth in your boot, and what size you need to cut your wood up and then do it.
A sheet of 18mm MDF is not dear, just what the power tools.
A square box is easiest to make and calculate the volume for if you want it real easy
All the best,
Onion
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