Polishing clear resin

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Lexx

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So not really car related, more finish related... I turn a few wooden items with clear resin in them, and finding it hard to get a real good finish on the clear resin even through the grades to 12000 grit wet and dry micromesh, any of you detailers use anything compound wise that might polish them up better ?

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Woodcutter

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Do you mean 1200 grit?

Check out 3M Trizac discs, they go up to 6000 and leave a perfect finish. Expensive, but worth it for the finish.
 

-Pete-

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did you use epoxy resin lexx? it might be your best option to float a thin coat of epoxy over the top if you're looking for that perfect finish. Another option is to build up coats of a tung oil mix, maybe 5 or 6 which would see you get a good high sheen finish.
I would think you follow kyle toth on youtube, but if you don't, check out his latest video where he shows exactly what he does on his finished bowls to achieve his final finish.
I would use a similar method to his when I'm going for a super smooth finish, even when using poly. just building layers with superfine sanding inbetween just to knock back the nibs and grain spots, similar to car finishing.

 

Lexx

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Do you mean 1200 grit?

Check out 3M Trizac discs, they go up to 6000 and leave a perfect finish. Expensive, but worth it for the finish.
nope 12,000 grit ;), Micromesh from 1500 -12000
 

Lexx

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did you use epoxy resin lexx? it might be your best option to float a thin coat of epoxy over the top if you're looking for that perfect finish. Another option is to build up coats of a tung oil mix, maybe 5 or 6 which would see you get a good high sheen finish.
I would think you follow kyle toth on youtube, but if you don't, check out his latest video where he shows exactly what he does on his finished bowls to achieve his final finish.
I would use a similar method to his when I'm going for a super smooth finish, even when using poly. just building layers with superfine sanding inbetween just to knock back the nibs and grain spots, similar to car finishing.

That would be my normal finishing regime with Danish oil or tung, but clear resin is a funny beast, doesnt like finish sitting on it can yellow over time and slightly tints the look of the resin, and sometimes I can flow a finish coat over it, but where I pour the resin and re turn on the lathe I generally dont get a chance to reflow, use an abrasive paste sometimes but thought in the car detailing world there would be a product for the likes of lights etc that might work better with a buff ?

The likes of this golf themed bowl which I recently finished I cant reflow without it going over the wood...

Generally customers are very happy with the finish, but I can see minute flaws which I would like to eliminate.

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-Pete-

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I've used my makita rotary polisher on wood before but that was just for some wax coats and not resin but i think a light machine polish would bring the finish up to a high shine, if you have one available. Im not up to speed with all the newest and greatest car polishes and abrasives but I would use the least abrasive grade menzerna polish for plastics and it brings them up flawless.

other option might be spray lacquer or spray on gloss poly?

On these two planes I refurbished recently, I went with boiled linseed oil for one set of handles and then wipe on lacquer (4 or 5 coats from memory) for the high shine 'gloss' finish on the other.
Not sure how resin would react with lacquer since it has alcohol in it though.,
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Ollie

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I've seen a few videos on Facebook lol.... do they not run a blow torch over it just after they pour the resin? Seems to make the resin really clear as if it wouldn't need polished.
 

Pitviper

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The Blowtorch is just to pop the bubbles on the surface.

I presume in this case, the resin is cast and then turned to shape, so bubbles arent really a concern anyway.
 

Lexx

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Im a turner myself, Lexx.

Eddie Simpson (@richmondwoodturning) • Instagram photos and videos

Try Yorkshire grit on it.

Also what kind of resin are you using?
Used yorkshire grit on it before I started with the micromesh, I dont like the finish it gives on resin, tho its useful in some instances, won't be using it anymore however due to some unresolved issues I had with their first batch, where their containers were faulty and contaminated the grit, and I was told by them to bin it and buy more, fantastic customer service !!, using cleartop 5 & 35 for depth from MBFG in Newtownabbey. I'm chairman of the Irish Woodturners guild Down chapter, you ever up in the ulster chapter in the woodshed ?
 

Lexx

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I've used my makita rotary polisher on wood before but that was just for some wax coats and not resin but i think a light machine polish would bring the finish up to a high shine, if you have one available. Im not up to speed with all the newest and greatest car polishes and abrasives but I would use the least abrasive grade menzerna polish for plastics and it brings them up flawless.
Cheers Pete, loving the planes will check menzerna or equivalent at the weekend
 

Pitviper

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That was the metal tin issue, Lexx?

I've used it on the same resin a few times with some decent results. I find it works better at a slower speed and take a bit longer. Too much heat at higher speed.

I'm friendly with Sam and Linda up at the Woodshed, Lexx, yeah. Was there a few weeks ago doing a masterclass with Nick Agar. That was some day out!
 

Lexx

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At the time I turned the bowls had only a 3 speed record, have a Axminster 1628 waiting to go in the workshop when I get the sawdust burner connected, but still not happy with the finish, need a set of buffing wheels !!, love your pieces on insta.
 

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Thanks Lexx, best of luck in your glossy quest!

Aything up to 3ft for the big wall hangers, Pete. They're some fun to turn I can tell you!
 

Lexx

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DOH should have read Ronin's sticky post about restoring headlights before I posted this !!
 
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