Rear Springs Volvo V70 D5

[Tam9n]

Hi all,

Looking some advice, as I can find next to none online for this job (there are a few forum posts and an S60 lowering spring video) but that’s about it.

I’ve spent 4 consecutive nights trying to fit a new stock spring in my bangernomics V70 (2003 Phase2) and I just cannot get it right.

I’ve done so many rear springs in the past which were a breeze.

So I’ve tried a few methods;
- Dropped the control arm at the hub side.
- Dropped the control arm at the midline or the car.
- Dropped the entire control arm and used two jacks.
- Used internal spring compressors (decent sealey ones too)
- Used a combination of the above every which way.

The problem is the spring alignment, has every perfect, every bolt back in, top or the spring was perfectly on the rubber hat up in the aluminium top mount; the lower spring was seated where it should be.

And as happened every other attempt; slowly let the compressors of and BANG, the bottom of the spring jumps out of the bottom seat and forward towards the hub.

Genuinely at a loss at this point, probably 15/20 hours spent trying to do ONE rear spring!

 

[Mark_C]

It can be done, but there is a special 'tool' they call a striker plate or a 'fixation tool' that clamps the spring down temporarily.

Its little more than a piece of steel a few inches long with the ends upturned slightly and a threaded hole 2/3 the way up it.

I think that applies to P2 but it's months since I last did one

 

[stevieturbo]

compress the spring more, and/or also jack up the "wheel" hub to a more on the road position ? Then re-install shock up the middle ( assuming that's where it goes )

With all those cable ties....that's meme material

 

[Tam9n]

Thanks both.

Turns out the springs I got were reenforced rears that maybe explains why they were difficult as to wrestle with.

But actually yes, I released the sprint compressors before inserting the shock up the middle, so perhaps the control arm/hub dropped lower than usually and it popped out? So keep the jack holding some height first a slot the shock up.

Yep, cable ties everywhere to try and keep everything in position throughout. Mind you, I was using a proper internal spring compressor throughout, never just used cable ties to lob it in

 

[Tam9n]

all,

Just wanted to share some feedback incase it proves useful for someone else but I finally got the new spring in!

Recap: I had a nightmare try to change a spring lately, I ordered a KYB RA7007 (which is heavy duty which I didn’t realise until afterwards!). I used internal spring compressors and every trick in the book, dropping control arms etc but to no avail.

The issue I had was getting the top and bottom aligned, and the bottom popped right back out.

Ordered a Kilen 66007, and it went straight in.

1) I can confirm I also did it this time by dropping the inner (closest to the exhaust) bolt for the control arm. While having a trolley jack underneath, then released the tension.

2) used tape to wrap the rubber top mounting to the new spring.

3) pushing down on the control arm allowed me eventually to wiggle the new spring roughly into place.

4) I used fairy liquid on the rubber mount at the top, and slowly started to used a scissor jack under the hub.

5) at the same time I used my trolley jack further in on the control arm to slowly lift the control arm and compress the spring.

6) by juggling the height of the two jacks, I got the bolt back in most of the way at the inner console bolt hole. (Note, jacking under the hub with the scissor jack allows the control arm to pull a little outward towards the hub

7) getting the bolt lined up with the thread portion of the hub takes some juggling again. Once I had the console bolt mostly in, I removed the trolley jack from under the inner console arm, and put it under the hub. I then used my scissor jack to help move the console arm as needed. In my case, I put a block of wood on the arch liner, then my scissor jack against the brake caliper and manipulated the arm enough to get the bolt in and threaded.

8.) I compressed the new strut a few times, then quickly posted it up in whole compressed and then bolted it in.

9) jack up to put everything under load then tighten up and bolts, bolt up new drop link etc!

Comparing the KYB against the Kilen, the KYB was not only a good portion heavier, but also a little taller too. The pigtails appeared to stop in slightly different places too, which I always get wasn’t quite right with the KYB spring.

To note, I replaced a stock spring without using my internal spring compressors in the end.. so it can be done! But please make sure you do what you’re comfortable with!

All in all, once I had the correct spring - this really wasn’t too bad.

KYB HD on left and top, Kilen on right and bottom.