Rust remover

[hippyross]

I've bought and Mazda 6 mps that was sitting a few years and I'm in the process of a minor restoration.
I've just got some rust cut out of the sills and replaced and now I want to tackle the rear subframe area as it looks like the Titanics anchor lol

I'm thinking of buying one of those pneumatic needle scaler yokes to get the rough off it first but I was wondering was there any sort of spray I could use to treat the remaining rust before using the likes of lanogaurd I just don't want to get the rough off then cover the rest up if you know what I mean.
Other brands or ideas welcome.
Cheers

 

[Odhran]

Always hear great reviews on Bilt Hamber products. Haven’t used any of their metal products though.

 

[hippyross]

Always hear great reviews on Bilt Hamber products. Haven’t used any of their metal products though.

Thanks I'll give them a look

 

[Woodcutter]

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.

 

[eamon343]

Ive used aquasteel recently and it does a good job.

AQUASTEEL RUST CONVERTER AND PRIMER FOR BRUSH OR SPRAY 1 ltr | eBay

Apply Aquasteel onto the area using brush, roller or spray. To ensure the best protection possible two or more coats of Aquasteel should be used depending on the rust density and exposure to salt. Aquasteel should not be used in confined spaces.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Coog]

Have just treated an old rusty trailer with Neutrarust 661.

Turned it black and left it with a resin like coating over the top which I’ve then just painted. Seemed a good job though dare say all these converter products are pretty much the same: tannic acid and polymers just like the removers are all basically concentrated citric with gelling agents… you just pay extra for their marketing.

You’ll probably want to paint it before the lanoguard is applied too, which again is just basic ingredients - lanolin and mineral oil IIRC

 

[stevieturbo]

I used Aquasteel when doing some repairs on mine.

Will maybe know in 10 years or so if it really worked lol

Although I did put a coating on an old rusty brake disc sitting outside, and the coating seems to have remained intact on the half I did. Who knows really...best to keep the car warm and dry to prevent rust in the first place

 

[Burt2000]

You could do worse than put a coating of zinga on it once you have tackled the rust and put a converter over it. Zinga can be over painted too

 

[Martyn]

Yep have used the Bilt Hammer rust treatment on a subframe before staying Matt black. Awesome stuff, easy to work with and does the job perfectly.

Ordered from Amazon - arrived the following day.

 

[BobSpounge]

Another vote for hydrate 80. Bilt Hamber Dynax UC or Dynax UB will last longer than lanoguard. Nothing wrong with lanoguard though.

 

[hippyross]

Thanks for the feedback.
I did have my eye on the hydrate but shipping was working out the price of the product. I've got aquasteel in my Amazon basket for now until I change my mind lol I will clean the rust back and decide if I'm going for a smooth finish or a textured to iron things out
Cheers

 

[stevieturbo]

One aspect to most of these products, even ones that can be painted over. Is that in order to paint over and have a nice finish, you will likely be sanding it down...which will almost always break through and back to bare metal again.

Epoxy primer is the best thing for covering and sealing at that point.

But for other areas, or inaccessible areas, some of the rust killer type products would be good.

 

[hippyross]

Yeah my plan is to remove the worst if the rust with the pneumatic descaler, wire brush and elbow grease, depending on how the metal looks will depend on what type of finish I'll be going for I'd say the texture look will probably be what I'll end up with the take the bad look of the bits of metal that fell off

 

[stevieturbo]

If textured, epoxy primer to seal it all up then Raptor over it.

But before any sealing coatings, ensure thoroughly clean and dry.

 

[Woodcutter]

Thanks for the feedback.
I did have my eye on the hydrate but shipping was working out the price of the product. I've got aquasteel in my Amazon basket for now until I change my mind lol I will clean the rust back and decide if I'm going for a smooth finish or a textured to iron things out
Cheers

I have plenty of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 in stock if you need it.

 

[hippyross]

I have plenty of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 in stock if you need it.

I will give you a bell at the start of the week. Cheers

 

[Johnny_E]

Sorry for just posting a link.... But look through my photo set here:

MX5 Rear End Rebuild

210 new items · Album by John

photos.app.goo.gl

I setup a bilt hamber bath to submerge my subframe and neutralise the rust. In the end though, the paint was so badly failed that I had to strip it all off.

I used POR15 3 stage paints (clean prep, etch, paint). Finished off by cavity spraying the subframe etc inside with bilt hamber areosols. They're brilliant.

 

[hippyross]

Sorry for just posting a link.... But look through my photo set here:

MX5 Rear End Rebuild

210 new items · Album by John

photos.app.goo.gl

I setup a bilt hamber bath to submerge my subframe and neutralise the rust. In the end though, the paint was so badly failed that I had to strip it all off.

I used POR15 3 stage paints (clean prep, etch, paint). Finished off by cavity spraying the subframe etc inside with bilt hamber areosols. They're brilliant.

Excellent job. Ideally I should pull the subframe out and put it in a citric acid bath but I don't want to get that deep into it. Hopefully I can get the worst of it off and help to reduce the corrosion for a year or two.

 

[hippyross]

Double post

 

[PaddyCvr]

Sorry to revive this just after a bit of help.

Bought hydrate 80, dynax-uc (clear underbody wax), some waxoyl and hammerite paint. I've started into replacing every suspension / bushing / arm on the car. Anyway, just fired some hydrate on the rear under arches as they weren't rusty but had surface rust here and there. (cleaned/pressure washed/desgreased everything before hand) Let it dry for a few days then thought fook it may aswell take get the wire wheel out and take everything back.

Here's my **** up, I used hydrate 80 thinking it would turn all the bare metal black like it did to the rust spots. Nope, car now has more rust than what I started with and I haven't a baldy what to do. Do I just get the surface rust off again and paint it with hammerite? Or do I use waxoyl?

Any help would be appreciated lads, first time doing anything like this ffs.

 

[PaddyCvr]

Sorry to revive this just after a bit of help.

Bought hydrate 80, dynax-uc (clear underbody wax), some waxoyl and hammerite paint. I've started into replacing every suspension / bushing / arm on the car. Anyway, just fired some hydrate on the rear under arches as they weren't rusty but had surface rust here and there. (cleaned/pressure washed/desgreased everything before hand) Let it dry for a few days then thought fook it may aswell take get the wire wheel out and take everything back.

Here's my **** up, I used hydrate 80 thinking it would turn all the bare metal black like it did to the rust spots. Nope, car now has more rust than what I started with and I haven't a baldy what to do. Do I just get the surface rust off again and paint it with hammerite? Or do I use waxoyl?

Any help would be appreciated lads, first time doing anything like this ffs.

An after and before just so yous catch my Tokyo drift

 

[Burt2000]

Yeah it will only react with the rust to go black. Your fresh metal in this climate will form surface rust in no time, look how brake discs go after even a wash. I’d take it back to bare metal again make sure clean and dry and put a coat of zinga (cold galvanising coating, but proper stuff) on it then top it with whatever you choose, paint or something like gravitex

 

[PaddyCvr]

Yeah it will only react with the rust to go black. Your fresh metal in this climate will form surface rust in no time, look how brake discs go after even a wash. I’d take it back to bare metal again make sure clean and dry and put a coat of zinga (cold galvanising paint, but proper stuff) on it then top it with whatever you choose, paint or something like gravitex

Legend! Yeah it literally went rusty within the day ffs, you live and you learn I guess lol

Any idea where I can get that zinga stuff?

 

[Burt2000]

The place I got it was ridgeway down in the docks area airport road. It was about £15 for a 1kg tin a few years ago, sold by weight rather than in ml due to the zinc content. Even a 1kg tin goes along way. It’s 96% zinc and the best option bar hot dip galvanising. Just make sure the metal is clean, dry, degreased and has been keyed. It’s has no shelf life either so a tin can last years. You can then top coat it with paint if you like, fine mist coat then top coat(s)

Zinga Applied Galvanising System - Industry Support

www.ridgeway-online.com

 

[PaddyCvr]

The place I got it was ridgeway down in the docks area airport road. It was about £15 for a 1kg tin a few years ago, sold by weight rather than in ml due to the zinc content. Even a 1kg tin goes along way. It’s 96% zinc and the best option bar hot dip galvanising. Just make sure the metal is clean, dry, degreased and has been keyed. It’s has no shelf life either so a tin can last years. You can then top coat it with paint if you like, fine mist coat then top coat(s)

Zinga Applied Galvanising System - Industry Support

www.ridgeway-online.com

Absolute gentleman. Fired them an email incase they respond quicker than me ringing when I get a chance tomorrow sometime. Will let you know how it goes, really appreciate it!