The Ultimate X - Fiat X1/9

[michelinman]

No worries mate, I needed prompting!
It's nice to keep a record but sometimes you just have to put down the camera and get things done.
What do you drive by the way?

Haha! Good man Sorry, but I seemed to have completely missed your post! I think I have been reading too much about corona.... But yeah, I have been at home since Wednesday and started taking my BMW apart for some much needed TLC. Been badly documenting it with photos, but I will update my thread shortly too

I daily an BMW e46 330ci and a Honda Civic EE9 Vtec which get more TLC than my wife would like, but I also keep her BMW e39 530i maintained so I think she's reluctant to complain To be fair, I use her 530 as my towing donkey and I must have driven over 6000 km towing my cars with it lol!

Keep on with the updates on your X1/9 - dash looks great!

Stay healthy!

 

[Mark Bowden]

Haha! Good man Sorry, but I seemed to have completely missed your post! I think I have been reading too much about corona.... But yeah, I have been at home since Wednesday and started taking my BMW apart for some much needed TLC. Been badly documenting it with photos, but I will update my thread shortly too

I daily an BMW e46 330ci and a Honda Civic EE9 Vtec which get more TLC than my wife would like, but I also keep her BMW e39 530i maintained so I think she's reluctant to complain To be fair, I use her 530 as my towing donkey and I must have driven over 6000 km towing my cars with it lol!

Keep on with the updates on your X1/9 - dash looks great!

Stay healthy!

Cheers, you too.
I remember driving to Scotland in 1995 to look at a red M535i with a manual gearbox, probably would have been an

Haha! Good man Sorry, but I seemed to have completely missed your post! I think I have been reading too much about corona.... But yeah, I have been at home since Wednesday and started taking my BMW apart for some much needed TLC. Been badly documenting it with photos, but I will update my thread shortly too

I daily an BMW e46 330ci and a Honda Civic EE9 Vtec which get more TLC than my wife would like, but I also keep her BMW e39 530i maintained so I think she's reluctant to complain To be fair, I use her 530 as my towing donkey and I must have driven over 6000 km towing my cars with it lol!

Keep on with the updates on your X1/9 - dash looks great!

Stay healthy!

Cheers, you too.
I remember driving to Scotland in 1995 to look at an E28 M535i with a manual gearbox. Thirsty heavy car.
I used to drive a 1977 320, and a 1971 2002.
The 2-series are still my favourite beamers.
The Honda vtec is a legendary engine of course, and the most popular engine swap for the X19, K20A or A2.
My other follower (!!) Drives an Elise with a Honda motor.

 

[michelinman]

I would love a 2002! So much money though A good friend of mine from Bangor who is sadly no longer with us, had two tii's; one of which was like the Pope (completely holy) and the other was like the Terminator (a mechanical marvel) and I tried with vain to buy them both and make one good car. But he wouldn't part with them

I do also have an e30 325ix which is currently "resting" in my garage The other 3 cars take up all my spare time just keeping them on the road though

I presume you are talking about @svensktoppen ? I think I read a small reference to a Honda Lotus somewhere lol! I need to see that thread! Hint, hint

 

[svensktoppen]

Absolutely love a nice tii, or even dare I say it a turbo Nice ones are well out of reach now though!

Edit: Just had a quick look, ~100k for a nice turbo... You can get a "turbo look" replica for just 20k though

 

[Mark Bowden]

It's a hell of a time for everyone in this crazy madness going on at the moment. It's like our dear leaders have painted themselves in a corner and can't find a way out.

A lot of rock and hard place as well in fairness.

All we can do is tend our garden, take care of ourselves and those near to us, and hold our breath. Even if everything went back to "normal" tomorrow it will be a long time to recover.

At least you have the car to keep you sane. I'm doing a brain transplant on the Hondus, spent last night trying to get the connectors off, lol It's the little things that keep us going

Hi Sven, hope you're well and making sterling progress with the Lota, sorry Hondus... hey could you forward a link to your project again, to me, and also to my other follower (woohoo) aka michelinman?
Thanks pal

 

[Mark Bowden]

Absolutely love a nice tii, or even dare I say it a turbo Nice ones are well out of reach now though!
Yeah I'm still sore about selling the tootie (actually wasn't a tii but I called it that)... the build quality was outstanding.
Edit: Just had a quick look, ~100k for a nice turbo... You can get a "turbo look" replica for just 20k though

Yeah I'm still sore about selling the tootie (actually wasn't a tii but I called it that)... the build quality was unbelievable.
Personally I didn't like the turbo bodykit plus the lag was immense by modern standards and the Kugekfischer injection on the tii put me off.
Best option would be do the M3 engine swap (N/A, E30?)... In fact in one of the videos I posted there's just such a car.
Boy is that thing fast!
It races against Manuel Dondi's X19, not sure if it's quite as fast (I would say that!)... but it's arguably far closer to the original 2002.
In fact, the M3 engine in the 2002 = "M2'' is a brilliant idea for us hot-rodders!
It's been done, it's way out of my price bracket but mosdef the ultimate beamer in my books because it's also the smallest, lightest car they ever made.
Apart from the bubble car.
That doesn't count

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hope you're fighting fit, followers !

That means you Sven, and Michelinman.

I took the decision to go back to work today, feeling lucky to have a job at all, working outside, roofing with one other person.
Them bills were piling up.

Quick update, finally managed to get the ultimate angle on the front view, see above.
Following on from the throttle cable job, seat installation, and insulating the tunnel with 'Cool-It', I realised the car was actually driveable !

Oh, and I found my 'Master Tyre Pressure Guage' in the boot of the Focus, AND my foot pump.
Maybe it was my fear of using the air machine at the garage, not sure, but after a few minutes playing around I came to realise just how inaccurate those machines are, compared to the one I had mislaid some time ago.
Quite possibly I've been wide of the mark with tyre pressures since I bought the X, but by the law of averages over time, finally I think I've found the sweet spot -

(cold, psi) -
NSF -24
OSF -25
NSR -26
OSR -27

Maybe this looks a bit odd, but it's based on a 24/26 front rear setup, because the car is slightly rear heavy and has stiffer rear springs - 200 front, 250 rear.
I've been taking stuff off the car as well, most recently of course the seats and runners, passenger seat belt, but I'd not given much thought to the left/right weight distribution.
Primarily it's between the battery, fuel tank, and gearbox on the passenger side versus me (ten and a half stone), plus the engine, pedal box, and steering column on the drivers side.
So I gave it a bit of thought, factored I had approx one third of a tank, and concluded - well the car's GOT to be heavier on the offside, so I added one psi front and rear, and headed for the open road.

Open roads, for the first time in a long time.
I was grinning from ear to ear in no time.
It really feels like the hard work and attention to detail is starting to pay off.
Squeaks and rattles - down significantly.
Throttling - accurate, bordering on sublime.
Gear shift - tight, well placed.
Cabin fumes - nil.
Fuel pressure - correct.
Instrumentation - accurate and clear.
Driving position - tailor made.

It really feels like a pretty special little car.
Still lots to do of course, such as the engine install (I know), pedal box and hydraulics, driveshafts, front calipers, front and rear springs, and front and rear hubs, but I'm saving the best till last !

All the best, stay safe.

 

[svensktoppen]

Those pressures should be spot on for the road, run exactly the same on the road with the Lotus - 24/27 front/rear. Similar weight and distribution to you.

On track you can try going lower, even as low as 20/23 (warm). Helps keep the tyres flat with maximum contact patch. That's with your track tyres with stiff tyre walls obviously as in your pictures. They're basically run-flats and designed to run at low pressures for this reason. On standard road tyres with normal tyre walls go the other way!

The slightly higher pressures on road is just to reduce wear and generally just works better when not pushing flat out.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hi Sven, that's really interesting, and good to have a reference to the Elise, like you say, similar weight and distribution.

I think 30 psi is the recommended pressure for these Avons in terms of road use.
I've tried various pressures from 18-28 psi and the effects are complex and varied as I'm sure you know.
The higher pressures seem to sharpen up the front end in terms of turn-in, but I'm pretty sure my spring rates aren't correct so it's hard to say.
The lower pressures make the car easier to drive in some ways - less fidgety, but the steering feels heavier and the turn-in is slower.
Also, the tyres wear faster like you suggested.
Too low, and the ride feels bouncy.
I'm hoping that fitting the slightly softer springs will mean I can add about 1-2 psi to my setup, and increase the rebound damping by a couple of clicks.
The geometry isn't yet exactly right either I don't think, mainly in terms of straight line stability at high cruising speeds - I have zero toe at the front for a faster turn-in but this might also be a contributing factor.

 

[IL]

Fiat X1/9 Dallara rolling chassis

Fiat X1/9 Dallara rolling chassis

www.racecarsdirect.com

A lovely home for your pukka new engine! GHB

 

[Mark Bowden]

Fiat X1/9 Dallara rolling chassis

Fiat X1/9 Dallara rolling chassis

www.racecarsdirect.com

A lovely home for your pukka new engine! GHB

Sorry for the delay in replying.

If only I could afford it!
Seventeen thousand euros is a real bargain, assuming the car is properly built.

 

[IL]

Sorry for the delay in replying.

If only I could afford it!
Seventeen thousand euros is a real bargain, assuming the car is properly built.

I didn’t think it sounded too bad.. dig deep!

Has to be the ultimate for an X19 fanatic!

 

[Mark Bowden]

I didn’t think it sounded too bad.. dig deep!

Has to be the ultimate for an X19 fanatic!

In some ways you're right but the wide bodied racer like the Dallara is a very different prospect... I didn't set out to build a racer, just a fast road car.

 

[pablo]

been a while since an update, anything going on?

 

[svensktoppen]

Was watching videos of mad crazy X1/9 race cars the other day and was thinking the same

 

[Mark Bowden]

I haven't been doing any work on the Fiats since the last post.
I spent a while hoping to sell one of them to a guy who was reading this blog.
He decided not to.
I've been building a garage, because I can't afford to pay someone to work on the D-reg, I plan to fit the engine myself after Christmas.
Garage is finished.
I'll put up some pics idc.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Just a quick update along the lines of working things out

like I think I worked out the nose is a reflection of the rear view mirror.

This was the state of things during the long hot summer.
I overhauled and fitted a replacement handbrake assembly and gear lever (ball joint fell apart) which works a treat. It's a couple of inches too long so I'll shorten it in due course.

Haven't done much on the sides apart from delete the holes on the quarter panel where the bumper trim was fixed...

... ditto the rear panel holes apart from the last three.

I've been unable to use the instruments I fitted (at night) because the display backlight and needle brightness is way too harsh.
I did a bit of research and plan to bond 95-86mm step-down rings on to the bezels of the tach & speedo, and use screw in glass filters, as used in cameras.

I found and ordered a pair of variable ND filters which are adjustable in a range of 50-98% (of light reduction) -

All I can say is I hope they work !

I've been finishing off the garage doors as well during the summer -

I've been planning out the engine installation job, so far just done a few drawings and hope to take them to a welder to discuss on Friday.

 

[stevieturbo]

Would it not be easier just to lift the car to a sensible height on stands, level, and then raise the engine up in ? Means all lifting and aligning would be done on a level plane, as opposed to a steep angle.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Various reasons why ...

- Limited level floor area
- Height restriction in centre of building (roof truss)

Most of the engine swaps I've read about (where space, money etc are tight) were done by lifting only the rear of the vehicle.

To take the engine and gearbox out complete from underneath, the car is fully lifted only when everything's disconnected so the engine + box can be rolled away on a dolly, likewise on the refit the engine is rolled into place then the body is lowered on to it.

The alignment on to the engine mounts is mostly done at a much lower height, so I don't plan on lifting the engine much on the jack, but having independent control of the engine height relative to body height it should be no problem getting things to line up.

Also because the car is lowered I'm going to have to put it up on a couple of railway sleepers so as to lower the floor between the sleepers. This should allow ample room to get the trolley jack out and do up the bottom mounts with the car on its rear wheels or only slightly raised.

Chocking the front wheels and lifting the rear of the car, will produce an arc of travel yes, so I think it's going to be about finding the best height for bolting up the mounts and having the engine strapped to the dolly at the correct angle for that height.

Any constructive criticisms always considered, however.

 

[svensktoppen]

Glad to see you are still alive and well Mark, and the X1/9 too

 

[Mark Bowden]

Aye!
Likewise Sven.

 

[robinb]

Hi Mark

Very late to this X1/9 party and wanted to congratulate you on both the conception and execution of your build.

Having owned a 1978 1.3 in lime green in 81/82 I do covet another but like you think an updating is both a good idea and worthwhile.

Did you talk to the guys at Di Fulvio racing in Italy? They have made some very nice race/fast road cars and as they say the X is their "passione". However I reluctantly came to the same conclusion as you: i.e. doing one properly would be a c£100k++exercise and thus be quite hard to justify.

Look forward to keeping further tabs on yours!

Robin

 

[Mark Bowden]

Just a quick write up on the latest hack (sorry no pics as yet) -

I ordered a pair of 86-95mm step-up rings to mount the variable ND filters to the bezels on the SPA tach & speedo.
They didn't fit the SPA bezels, also the threads were the wrong way round.
I sent them back and ordered 86-82mm step-down rings instead, threaded female-male.
To secure them I was thinking of filing off the male thread to make a flat, and using glue.
The male threaded bit that sticks out has a depth of 2.75mm (at right angles to the ring).
I began to look at sticky foam as opposed to glue, and ended up buying 50m of 3mm thick, 10mm wide, black, high-density foam, double-sided adhesive 'construction' tape which is a gasket tape used for glazing.

This proved to be a perfect solution - the gasket is light proof, dust proof, waterproof, and isolates the ring from the bezel so it's vibration proof and won't rattle.
The rings do not alter the appearance of the SPA bezels - when viewed from the front they are very discrete but viewed from the side they stick out 5mm more.
When the variable ND filters are screwed in, this goes up to 10mm which looks a little odd.

The instruments are easily readable, daytime with the filter adjusted to minimum (50% reduction in brightness).
For driving at dusk, it's just a matter of rotating the bezels on the tach and speedo whenever they get too bright, in practice I made 3 adjustments before it was properly dark, the dimming effect being very precise and easy.
For night driving I turned them to their dimmest settings (98% reduction), and then dimmed the panel lights for the oil/water and fuel gauges to their lowest setting.

The result is pretty beautiful I have to admit.
I'm still looking at the same dial and needle as before, that's true.
But I'm not looking at a cheap bezel or through or at a cheap piece of clear glass either.
I'm looking at precision engineered matt black anodised aluminium, through Japanese coated optical glass.

What would I do differently if I built another ? - I would probably buy SPA again but I'd send the clocks straight back to their service department and ask them to take the cases apart and return them to me in component form (electronics, bezel, case minus glass).
I would then machine a thread into the bezel to accept the reduction ring, and screw the rings together from opposite sides of the panel, then mount the glass.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hi Mark

Very late to this X1/9 party and wanted to congratulate you on both the conception and execution of your build.

Having owned a 1978 1.3 in lime green in 81/82 I do covet another but like you think an updating is both a good idea and worthwhile.

Did you talk to the guys at Di Fulvio racing in Italy? They have made some very nice race/fast road cars and as they say the X is their "passione". However I reluctantly came to the same conclusion as you: i.e. doing one properly would be a c£100k++exercise and thus be quite hard to justify.

Look forward to keeping further tabs on yours!

Robin

Thanks Robin, I hazard a guess but if you're admitting to owning a LIME GREEN X in '81/'82 then you must be approaching sixty!
That car must have made a lasting impression on you, despite being on soft springs, with no anti roll bar, thin tyres, and not much power.
You say you'd like to own another?
I can sell you a good project car for next to nothing if you're interested!
Lime Green would be an excellent choice...

Yes, I did speak to Di Fulvio regarding pedals and brakes - they recommended a list of products they thought would be applicable if I wanted to be more race-oriented.

But I think you could run a fast X with some choice mods, for a fraction of what Di Fulvio would charge you, for as little as 25k.

Rough costs regarding my build - 4k for the car, ten grand for the engine, gearbox, clutch, ECU, all ancillaries, fuel system, exhaust system, wiring, hoses, and instrumentation, plus 2.5k approx per corner for wheels, tyres, suspension, brakes, hubs, bearings and driveshafts. What this doesn't cover is the paint, body, glass, trim, seats, or anything like that.

All the best,
Mark.

 

[svensktoppen]

Isn't there a way to wire a dimming circuit straight to the instrument lights? I have SPA oil temp and oil pressure gauges and they are very bright too, lol. Haven't really looked into it though.

It's a nice wee mechanical solution you came up with!