The Ultimate X - Fiat X1/9

[Hasbro]

This has been my desk top pic for a while;

I really like your garage build, btw. Is it finished now?

 

[Mark Bowden]

This has been my desk top pic for a while;
View attachment 309279

I really like your garage build, btw. Is it finished now?

Cheers!
Garage is finished but I'm on a job atm, earning money to pay for the tools and equipment I'll need to fit the new engine.
So things have stagnated a little, but seeing as the car is driveable I make sure to take it out if there's any dry weather, which isn't often... it's the middle of the winter here!
Image Wheels are some of the best on the market imo for classic or modern, road or race, at the entry level.
I think they bought Compomotive... some of the styles have been around for a long time but they also added many others.
I can't say if a 6.5 front would be better with the 195... depends on the ride height, but even with a 6+spacer you can expect some minor issues with the plastic wheel arch liner... the fit of which varies a lot from car to car.
On mine, the tyre has worn the liner away slightly at the front lowest point, where it contacts on full lock.
You can run with the liners out if it bothers you.
6.5+spacer rear, arguably better with the 195 except it limits interchangeability f/r of course, but the increase needs to be made on the inboard side only.
The reason the stance is so good, is because I've widened the track and reduced the ride height.
This is only possible because I've limited the suspension travel by fitting harder springs.
Hope this makes sense.
Mark.

 

[Hasbro]

Hey Mark,
Hope all is well on your side of the pond.

Looking for advice.
I have been corresponding with Harry at ImageWheels, told him I'm almost ready to order but thinking of going;
13x8 with R888R 225/45/13. They are the same diameter as Avon ZZS 185/55/13s, 20.9"/531mm, and about 1.1"/28mm wider tread and .9"/22mm wider in the section width.

I can go a little wider than your 0 offset (guessing around 25mm.) as I won't be quite as lowered as yours, maybe 8?mm taller and can flare a little bit more but very subtley.

What areas on the inside do I need to consider? The front will require more work, at the very least removing the plastic inner liner. If the springs will rub I have found coilovers that use 2 1/4"/58? mm springs instead of 2 1/2"/65?mm. And I'm trying to get an all tubular suspension system made over here by a very reputable guy that built his own (he also happens to have 6 National Autocross wins).

Are there any other rub spots that I should be aware of? Thanks, Mark. And this is all your fault!

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hey Mark,
Hope all is well on your side of the pond.

Looking for advice.
I have been corresponding with Harry at ImageWheels, told him I'm almost ready to order but thinking of going;
13x8 with R888R 225/45/13. They are the same diameter as Avon ZZS 185/55/13s, 20.9"/531mm, and about 1.1"/28mm wider tread and .9"/22mm wider in the section width.

I can go a little wider than your 0 offset (guessing around 25mm.) as I won't be quite as lowered as yours, maybe 8?mm taller and can flare a little bit more but very subtley.

What areas on the inside do I need to consider? The front will require more work, at the very least removing the plastic inner liner. If the springs will rub I have found coilovers that use 2 1/4"/58? mm springs instead of 2 1/2"/65?mm. And I'm trying to get an all tubular suspension system made over here by a very reputable guy that built his own (he also happens to have 6 National Autocross wins).

Are there any other rub spots that I should be aware of? Thanks, Mark. And this is all your fault!

Hi Barry, all my fault haha, it wasn't me... honest. Round up the usual suspects!
Your build seems to have departed on a more radical course than mine and it's getting harder for me to advise you as a result.
All I can do is point out a few things really.
If it's got to the point where you're considering fabricating tubular suspension components (presumably rear lower wishbones and front lower arms) and running 225's on 8" rims, these are radical decisions that will fundamentally change the cars' dynamics.
I'd say that unless it's all about the way you want the car to look, then you could be embarking on a build that's capable of handling 2,3,400 bhp and yes that's going to need 225 on the rear at the very least.
If you're happy with less power then unless you're actually running out of grip, what's the argument in favour of wider tyres other than for appearance?
As I mentioned earlier, Dallara did a lot of work on the x19 in the late seventies - they increased the wheelbase by 1", by locating the rear strut top mount 1"further back and 1" further out ie increased the rear track by 2", so if you're thinking of tubular rear wishbones then you could copy this.
But you'll have to fit the Dallara body kit to accommodate the changes.
If you specifically want to retain the stock arches and max out the tyre width then cool, great idea, but you'll just have to try it.
You'll get there in the end through a process of elimination, finding out what doesn't work!
Best of luck, and get some pictures up!
It's all going tits up over here... but still got work & food so can't complain!

 

[Hasbro]

Hey Mark, thanks.

I forgot to mention that autocross in the US is different from your version. It's somewhat similar to your autotest competitions except it's a forward direction all-out around cones, approximately 40 to 60 second runs. Lots of g forces, which can use the extra tread. The 6 time national champ I mentioned won 4 times in an X on tires with 1" more tread than the 225/50/13s and much stickier Hoosiers. I would like to build a fast street that can autocross but just for fun. So, yes, a bit different from fast street only and it would need to be a bit more firm. Maybe start at 200/275 lbs. instead of 175/200.

Today I actually found a guy using the Toyo 225s and he works for MidWestBayliss. We are trying to work out the feasability and fitment as we speak. If it doesn't seem worth it I'll go with the 185/55s, which would save a kilo per wheel/tire and be a much easier and more subtle approach. Will start with coilovers and experiment with spacers before taking the plunge.

Have pulled 300 lbs./136 kilos, goal is about 450 lbs./205kilos. It's a different animal already!

Looking forward to your future updates.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hi Barry, that's really interesting. Sounds like you're making some excellent progress all round. You've got the right approach I can tell.
For autocross you're good to need a LOT of grip on the back for sure, but I guess the front end is going to be all about fast turn-in in which case a quick rack + front swaybar + original size steering wheel would be nice, zero toe and narrower front tyres.
You might have to put a spot of weld on the camber bolts if you're really chucking her about.
Can you remind me what you plan to do with the engine?
I'd still recommend you look at doing the small block 1900 and I'm sure Midwest can help you source the parts to do it.
Haha, you must have a pile of stuff you've ripped off by now!
Hey, when you've taken everything off I'd like to know what the car weighs!
Get some more pics up.
Cheers.

 

[Hasbro]

Huh, interesting about the steering wheel. If I keep it the same size I'll have to extend it further out to clear my legs. I had planned on an extension and quick release but with a slightly smaller, like 12mm smaller. I'll keep the tires squared as I like to come into a corner fast and hard while taking it easy when exiting. This style keeps my street speed a little lower, if that makes any sense. It will be pretty neutral, anyway. I do my own alignments and will be constantly changing the numbers and tire pressure.

The engine; first off build the 1500 as far as can be without opening the block. Then decide where to go from there. Your 1900 is most tempting and need to research it more. So, either turn the current lump into a 1600, or a bigger Lampredi that will fit with the existing mounts, or go modern with a swap.

Not much to see yet, Mark. Still in the stripping stage. I'm 6'2" and have been driving without a seat. It's just the right height, lol.

Bought a used 4-2-2 from MidWestBayless for the time being. Also bought KYBs but will just skip to coilovers.

-300 lb./136 kilos, 2/3 of the way there. Ready for coilovers!

This is the 4x National Autocross champ. Guess I'm sort of building a street version of this. It will sit around 6 or 10?mm. higher than yours most likely, not sure. My flares will be smaller and hopefully just pulled fenders.

Here's my 99 base Boxster. More extreme than the X, lots of body cutting to happen. Also "street legal". Pulled over 500 lbs./225 kilos so far.

Will be about a meter shorter than stock with a single seat windshield, not the cut down one in my rendering.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hi Barry, thanks for taking the time to keep me in the picture.
That blue X looks friggin awesome I have to say, and absolutely proves the Bauhaus philosophy of 'form follows function' was correct all along.
The secret to the driving position in the X for anyone approaching 6' is changing out the seat to a carbon shell seat imo, because you create approx 5" extra legroom by doing this.
Meaning you can have your cake AND eat it!
Look at the seats by TILLETT for the Lotus Elise Cup, and the quick rack conversion by CamGears.
You'll notice I'm using a small steering wheel + standard rack but in all honesty I suspect a quick rack + original size wheel would be better (because a quick rack + small wheel will make for very heavy steering)- but only in conjunction with a shell seat + custom runners + deleting the centre console.
I deleted the horn push from the steering wheel as well.
Build the driving position around the original pedal box in other words.
Do these things, and then finally you'll be able to move the steering wheel away from the dashboard just by fitting a simple ring spacer.
If you're a slim guy you'll be able to get in and out without needing a detachable wheel.
Not sure about the advantages of narrower front tyres but presumably it's faster turn-in and probably works well with the X19 because it worked on the Dallara and the Stratos.
Please don't go modern and do an engine swap.
You'll only impress people that don't have a clue so what's the point?
You can't turn the 1500 block into a 1600 for any reasonable amount of money.
You need to get the later 1600 block because it already contains the 1600 crank, like from the Fiat Stilo.
Doesn't matter if it's got a 16V head, you can bin it and use the 8V Tipo head because it's better - simpler, lighter, stronger, takes higher rpm's.
Oversize pistons gets you to 1900cc, 200bhp with throttle bodies or 400bhp with a turbo - I prefer NA.
Get in touch with the experts - Fiat Racing Parts in Croatia, on Ebay.
They'll build your base motor for around four thousand gbp.
In my opinion, how the car sounds is very important.
There's a huge difference between the sound of a properly sorted Fiat 128 engine in a Fiat X19, and a Honda K20.
You hear K20's all the time.
You don't bother looking because chances are it'll be coming from a Honda Civic.
If it's coming from an X19 it's ten times less impressive.
I'll write a bit more later.
Cheers.

 

[Hasbro]

Thanks, Mark. I have looked for Elise seats but they are pretty rare in the US. Those Tillets are beautiful. You have expensive tastes but your build really shows the quality! Except for the composite and the butt pad, is your butt basically on the floorboard or can you adjust it so that you are? There's one dealer over here and I'll get in touch with him.

I'll look into the quick rack. I need to go back over this build (again), there's a lot of info to take in. By deleting the center console you are referring to the trim? How much room did it give you, 20 mm? I had also considered re-bracing it with an x crossbrace to give my knee even more room. Yes, I'm slender but would like a detachable wheel for more room. And it's hard to steal a car without a steering wheel, lol.

I'd prefer to stay Lampredi. I misunderstood, you turned a 1600 into a 1900? The one you have with ITBs, isn't a 1600? I won't be building a new motor for at least a year but will look into the viability of acquiring the parts - it's all over the pond parts for me. I have had a K20 and K24 so really appreciate what great motors they are but would rather not. I really don't want to tear up the chassis. If I acquire a second X I would consider a Toyota ZZ2 but we're talking an insane 1550 lb./700 kilo build.

Ta, Mark (you won't hear another American say ta. I played rugby in high school and we toured Wales for a couple of weeks and heard it there.)

 

[Mark Bowden]

Thanks, Mark. I have looked for Elise seats but they are pretty rare in the US. Those Tillets are beautiful. You have expensive tastes but your build really shows the quality! Except for the composite and the butt pad, is your butt basically on the floorboard or can you adjust it so that you are? There's one dealer over here and I'll get in touch with him.

I'll look into the quick rack. I need to go back over this build (again), there's a lot of info to take in. By deleting the center console you are referring to the trim? How much room did it give you, 20 mm? I had also considered re-bracing it with an x crossbrace to give my knee even more room. Yes, I'm slender but would like a detachable wheel for more room. And it's hard to steal a car without a steering wheel, lol.

I'd prefer to stay Lampredi. I misunderstood, you turned a 1600 into a 1900? The one you have with ITBs, isn't a 1600? I won't be building a new motor for at least a year but will look into the viability of acquiring the parts - it's all over the pond parts for me. I have had a K20 and K24 so really appreciate what great motors they are but would rather not. I really don't want to tear up the chassis. If I acquire a second X I would consider a Toyota ZZ2 but we're talking an insane 1550 lb./700 kilo build.

Ta, Mark (you won't hear another American say ta. I played rugby in high school and we toured Wales for a couple of weeks and heard it there.)

Thanks, Mark. I have looked for Elise seats but they are pretty rare in the US. Those Tillets are beautiful. You have expensive tastes but your build really shows the quality! Except for the composite and the butt pad, is your butt basically on the floorboard or can you adjust it so that you are? There's one dealer over here and I'll get in touch with him.

I'll look into the quick rack. I need to go back over this build (again), there's a lot of info to take in. By deleting the center console you are referring to the trim? How much room did it give you, 20 mm? I had also considered re-bracing it with an x crossbrace to give my knee even more room. Yes, I'm slender but would like a detachable wheel for more room. And it's hard to steal a car without a steering wheel, lol.

I'd prefer to stay Lampredi. I misunderstood, you turned a 1600 into a 1900? The one you have with ITBs, isn't a 1600? I won't be building a new motor for at least a year but will look into the viability of acquiring the parts - it's all over the pond parts for me. I have had a K20 and K24 so really appreciate what great motors they are but would rather not. I really don't want to tear up the chassis. If I acquire a second X I would consider a Toyota ZZ2 but we're talking an insane 1550 lb./700 kilo build.

Ta, Mark (you won't hear another American say ta. I played rugby in high school and we toured Wales for a couple of weeks and heard it there.)

Hi Barry, the more you get into it the craziness of it all... starts to make sense!
Nope, my engine with ITB's is 1500 not 1600... it was actually a Lancia Delta mk1 factory crated motor with zero miles that got torn down and modified.
Seat bottoms out 25mm from the floor, I find it more comfortable with no seat padding, just a bit of thin foam around the lumbar area works for me.
Expensive tastes haha yes well you can't realistically do better than the tilletts so it's like oh well that's three grand gone straight away lol

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hi Barry, the more you get into it the craziness of it all... starts to make sense!
Nope, my engine with ITB's is 1500 not 1600... it was actually a Lancia Delta mk1 factory crated motor with zero miles that got torn down and modified.
Seat bottoms out 25mm from the floor, I find it more comfortable with no seat padding, just a bit of thin foam around the lumbar area works for me.
Expensive tastes haha yes well you can't realistically do better than the tilletts so it's like oh well that's three grand gone straight away lol

The right knee area is the most cramped in a lhd x19.

You have to have your right foot on either the dead pedal or the clutch pedal most of the time during normal driving.

You also have to be able to hit the clutch pedal with some weight and get it right to the floor, as quickly as possible.

You'll find the ergonomic design of the driving position isn't perfect.

Things like, the lack of space around the 5pm of the wheel, nowhere for your thigh, weight of right leg rests between your shin bone and the hard plastic corner of the centre console trim instead of the soft padded part. You can see what they were trying to do but they could not resolve it.

It's because of metal support structure running between the tunnel and the dash rail.

It's not something you can just cut out because it's structural, I decided to make it a feature.

It only works because the side of the bucket stops the travel of your right leg short of the support structure.

Short of doing your own crash tests, you'd have to take an informed decision as to how safe the metal edge would be, in the event of it contacting your shin.

I figured, by the time my thigh had smashed sideways through the side of the carbon shell I would have other more serious issues to be dealing with.

But it's fun being low as much as it's fun being high.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Back for more, some decent progress...
Turns out the donor engine was a factory spare engine as fitted to the Lancia Prisma which was a - er... (had to look it up) saloon version of the Delta Mk.1.
Finally I've got the full list of the work / parts / specs -

I took delivery of the engine today and after a bit of shimmying around with the jack and blocks, got it on to the dolly without dropping it, then up the garden path which seemed to go on for a LONG way, and up into the house using more, bigger bits of wood. Next thing will be the transmission, clutch, drive shafts plus any other outstanding jobs that can be completed before I take the D-reg off the road... for as long as it takes I guess.

 

[svensktoppen]

Superb! Enjoy

 

[Mark Bowden]

Thanks, Mark. I have looked for Elise seats but they are pretty rare in the US. Those Tillets are beautiful. You have expensive tastes but your build really shows the quality! Except for the composite and the butt pad, is your butt basically on the floorboard or can you adjust it so that you are? There's one dealer over here and I'll get in touch with him.

I'll look into the quick rack. I need to go back over this build (again), there's a lot of info to take in. By deleting the center console you are referring to the trim? How much room did it give you, 20 mm? I had also considered re-bracing it with an x crossbrace to give my knee even more room. Yes, I'm slender but would like a detachable wheel for more room. And it's hard to steal a car without a steering wheel, lol.

I'd prefer to stay Lampredi. I misunderstood, you turned a 1600 into a 1900? The one you have with ITBs, isn't a 1600? I won't be building a new motor for at least a year but will look into the viability of acquiring the parts - it's all over the pond parts for me. I have had a K20 and K24 so really appreciate what great motors they are but would rather not. I really don't want to tear up the chassis. If I acquire a second X I would consider a Toyota ZZ2 but we're talking an insane 1550 lb./700 kilo build.

Ta, Mark (you won't hear another American say ta. I played rugby in high school and we toured Wales for a couple of weeks and heard it there.)

Hi Barry how's it going... any progress on your build ?
Get some more pics up if you can... let's keep this going despite all the insanity eh !
Haven't posted for a while - but there's an update below.
Tata.

 

[Mark Bowden]

I don't think any X1/9 build would be complete without covering the caliper brackets !
I got a contact who's good for any part provided you're ok with handling parts in 'as removed' condition... so here's some rusty old junk from the seventies -

... bolts with mangled threads corroded and just about removable, blasted but rejected in favour of new -

... high pressure vapour blasted, degreased, threads tapped out - outboard -

... inboard -

+4x coats of high temp black, no primer, ditto bolts (silver) -

the faces that contact the bronze locking blocks were flat filed, dressed with 1200 grit, left bare of paint and lubed with copper grease (along with the bolts & threads) ready for install.

 

[Mark Bowden]

General update of works / gearbox and diff
very early in this project I divvied up the capital expenditure and allocated £3,000 for the gearbox and diff.
I began by sourcing a spare 'box from a Gran Finale with very low miles.
I then did a bit of research about what kind of gearsets were available in production Fiats from 1980-90, particularly the Punto GT and Ritmo/Strada 105/125/130TC Abarth.
Interestingly it appears that the casing is the same on all models from the 128 thru X1/9, Punto, Brava, Stilo etc but the internals, particularly in the factory homologated cars such as the Abarth, are very different and have a ZF or MaxiPlate type LSD and close ratios.
I realised pretty quickly that I'm no expert, don't speak Italian, and have no actual knowledge of how to build a trans !
I found a company near me that said they could build a close ratio 'box + LSD using the Gran Finale 'box as the base.
I asked the company to take some pictures of the build and provide me with a component list of all the non OE parts fitted plus tell me what ratios were being used.
Eventually, when I went to collect it the only information provided was on the invoice -

I didn't make a fuss at the time, just assumed they did a good job, and the 'box then got stored for 2 years.
I got the engine done, took delivery, got the 'box out of storage, got them both on dollies in my living room and planned to fit the clutch, bolt the 'box to the engine including all the hydraulics and engine support bar, ready to be installed as a complete sub-assembly.
When I got to the release bearing, I noticed the action wasn't consistent, had a look at the input shaft seal cover and noticed it was worn.
I took it off, and there was no gasket fitted just blue silicone.
You get all the seals and all the gaskets if you buy both packs for about fifty quid.
So, the alarm bells started off and I'm thinking, what else didn't they do ?
I began to realise how stupid I would be to go ahead and fit it, not knowing what the hell was even in there. For all I know at the moment I've been completely ripped off.
The excellent company that built the engine, specifically don't touch transmissions, so I contacted various other firms over the past year and basically couldn't find anyone who seemed confident to take on the job.
Finally, I explained what had happened to Marc, and I'm relieved to say that he's agreed to have a look at it.
I'm going to provide him with an unopened OE 'box plus the close-ratio 'box, for further investigation.
It's going to cost more than I expected but I absolutely want a quality unit on a par with the engine itself, that I'm 100% confident to fit.
This all adds up to further delays, in fact I can't see myself getting the car finished this year at all.
Not to mention being strapped for cash.
I decided to sell one of the other X1/9's, the one that was on a private plate A19 PEW.
This was the car with security etched glass that didn't match the rego.
I contacted VOSA to see what was what.
They confirmed the original number and I had it re-registered as E708 GJF.
Within less that 24 hours I received a call from someone who was interested.
To cut a long story short, I sold it well, back to its second owner !
He said, this is the car I owned thirty years ago, and I've regretted selling it ever since !
He's taking delivery tomorrow, so at least I will be able to afford whatever needs to be done to the 'box.
I'm still in the game after all... isn't life funny.

 

[Mark Bowden]

General update - instrumentation -
As promised, I've finally got round to taking a couple of comparison shots for the panel illumination.
Readers of this blog will already know the difficulties I've had with the SPA instruments I chose.
They don't include any provision to independently control the needle brightness relative to the backlight brightness, which renders them unusable at night in my opinion.
They weren't interested in providing me with a software hack, and I had to consider reverting to the originals.
I thought about this a lot, eventually found these things called 'variable ND filters' which are used most often with camera lenses.
These filters are analogue, adjustable by rotating the bezel, and after some experimentation I settled on a cut range of 50-98%.
I'm no expert with a camera, but these shots were difficult to achieve. The human eye is incredibly sensitive to light.
The exposure constant, I set using the super-bright red LED warning lamps I fitted for oil and alternator.
This is the best I could do !

Maximum -

- minimum -

you'll have to use your imagination - the red lights go off when running, ditto the handbrake light, but yes the instruments are now balanced right down to 98% cut which is virtually off as far as the camera's concerned.

 

[svensktoppen]

Bummer with the gear box there, fingers crossed it's ok inside. Always the problem with sealed components. You have to trust whoever is doing the work and there are far too many cowboys about... Hope you get sorted.

Love your "analogue" solution to the lighting. It's ingenious if you can't or don't want to add dimmer electronics. I know you said that wasn't possible with these dials. I just love your lateral thinking

 

[Mark Bowden]

Haha Sven, thanks.
Yup, there's usually a hack if you can be arsed to spend whatever amount of time it takes.
I just finished the sale, and E708 is currently heading back north from whence it came, all parties happy.
Right, better get on and buy some more stuff.
Is there no end to it ?!
Presumably, yes... the number of required parts IS finite (I keep telling myself).
Next up will be to order all the gaskets and seals for the 'box.

 

[svensktoppen]

Nope, there is no end Ever

All about the journey

 

[Hasbro]

Hey Mark, nice to see you're making some progress. Ol' Avanti Rizzuti Motorsport doesn't give you a warm fuzzy feeling, do they?! Hope Marc can straighten things out. I sure wish I had someone like him close by! We do have an X tranny expert over here, though, and he is 100% trustworthy (same guy who owns the blue X in post #182). One of the advantages you have is the parts you can acquire from all of the different models (Lancia, Punto GT and Ritmo/Strada 105/125/130TC Abarth, etc.) that we never had. So I'm a bit reluctant to try to build a motor that is not available here.

So you have the motor/tranny in your living room? Cracked me up, most of my new parts are in my living room! I'm single and imagine you might be too!

My X has not recieved any mods yet but it is getting driven often. I have a self storage business and had intended to work on the X in one of the storage units but it just wasn't working out. 800' feet from the house/office and very poor cell phone connection. So I'm building a yard shed that will have a very small "garage" that will eventually be for my lawn mower but can initially serve as a place for the X. Then I will start on a proper garage/man cave next to it.

Thinking of going with 8x13 Image wheels and 225/45/13 Toyo R888Rs. Not sure if I mentioned that I acquired some very nice Dallara body parts? Add lightness, as Colin said. No flares, want to keep the body relatively stock.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Hey Mark, nice to see you're making some progress. Ol' Avanti Rizzuti Motorsport doesn't give you a warm fuzzy feeling, do they?! Hope Marc can straighten things out. I sure wish I had someone like him close by! We do have an X tranny expert over here, though, and he is 100% trustworthy (same guy who owns the blue X in post #182). One of the advantages you have is the parts you can acquire from all of the different models (Lancia, Punto GT and Ritmo/Strada 105/125/130TC Abarth, etc.) that we never had. So I'm a bit reluctant to try to build a motor that is not available here.

So you have the motor/tranny in your living room? Cracked me up, most of my new parts are in my living room! I'm single and imagine you might be too!

My X has not recieved any mods yet but it is getting driven often. I have a self storage business and had intended to work on the X in one of the storage units but it just wasn't working out. 800' feet from the house/office and very poor cell phone connection. So I'm building a yard shed that will have a very small "garage" that will eventually be for my lawn mower but can initially serve as a place for the X. Then I will start on a proper garage/man cave next to it.

Thinking of going with 8x13 Image wheels and 225/45/13 Toyo R888Rs. Not sure if I mentioned that I acquired some very nice Dallara body parts? Add lightness, as Colin said. No flares, want to keep the body relatively stock.

Hey Barry, good to hear back from you.
Very interesting, what you said about all them sporting Fiats never being sold in the states.
I don't think you should be put off, thinking about building a motor based on one of those...
You just need to find a competent engineer who's interested, and understands what you want to do.
You could even do a straight copy of my motor, using the sump, block, crank, rods and pistons you already have, from your X.

I didn't realise you personally know the owner of the blue X in post #182.
That is one helluva nicely set up car, and just goes to show how the US spec fenders can be retained... I actually prefer these to the series 1.
What sort of engine does he have in that ?
I reckon those are at least 8's on the back... at least !
So yes you'll probably have to do some subtle tweaking on those arches, but you could run 7's and do basically nothing externally.
Also good to hear you have a Fiat transmission expert over there who's reliable.
I would like to send them some pics of my 'box once Marc has opened it, they might be able to identify non-OE parts, if there are any.
Yep, not a warm fuzzy feeling from the yee-ha crew in Frome... just hoping everything can be sorted for a reasonable amount of extra cost and put it down to experience.

Haha, yes you guessed right... home alone with engines in the living room, almost a cliche innit.
And yes I kind of have to admit that Sven is right... there is no end it's all about the journey which I guess means a commitment to solving problems, indefinitely !
Which is kind of where I'm at atm... solve one problem, gain understanding, create three more.

A good example would be, recently I've been getting cramp in my clutch calf muscle, and thinking dammit this clutch is ridiculous, like a series Land Rover.
So I end up with my head upside down looking at the return spring on the clutch arm and realising the guy that changed out the slave cylinder ran the spring from the arm to the bellhousing instead of from the arm to the slave, I mean d'ooooooooh !
So I put it on the right way, and realised a-ha - the clutch arm return spring isn't the clutch pedal arm return spring, no wonder I was confused... so I looked at the pedal and found the spring there was missing altogether which is why I have a flappy pedal and a slow return when I take my foot off the clutch.
The weight, doesn't feel a lot different and I reckon it's probably the release bearing / input shaft cover.
So I looked at the pedal spring on the other X, and tried to pull it, lying face down under the dash.
That's where I had a bit of a fight and eventually lost my rag completely, and injured my hand and elbow.
That spring is a real bitch... just hope your's is still there in which case leave it well alone !
I concluded it is impossible to pull it with the pedal box in situ.
And I think I'm correct, because even with the box out and secured to the bench, you'd need to be superman to fit a new one.
So it was a case of back to the drawing board, more research, but usually it pays off because these are all OLD problems we're dealing with.

Eventually I found this -

I thought - genius, so simple, and 'I could make that' ... so, down to the steel suppliers to get some 12mm round bar, then with the usual vice, grinder, drill, files, and not too much swearing I ended up with something that might indeed work !

Yeah.
So, now when I look back at the pedal box I finished a while ago (post #107) which was a straight copy of the box with the missing spring...
well THAT'S why there is no spring.
Like Sven said, there's no end to it.
Well, death I suppose but that doesn't count haha.

Dallara body parts eh... just not the fender flares... cool.
Get her on a starvation diet !
All the best.
Tata.

 

[Mark Bowden]

The gasket and seal kits arrived, for the gearbox and diff.
The gasket for the input shaft seal cover is the ring gasket at the bottom left -

The label reads -

this label, appears to confirm that the diffs and gearsets fitted to the 400 RHD Abarth 130 TC Strada (Ritmo), are indeed based on the the same gearbox fitted to the X1/9 and Uno Turbo at least in terms of the seals and gaskets and ... casings surely !!? ... or the label is just wrong.

The 130 TC had a ZF-type 5-speed, full synchro with close ratios + LSD.

[[ The heads on the 130TC were the FIAT / Lancia 8V DOHC as also fitted to the Lancia Beta Volumex, MonteCarlo Spider et al, and Fiat 131 Mirafiori Sport.
The iron blocks on these were the 2-litre Lampredi 'big block' which were also used in the (legendary) FIAT Abarth 131 Rallye, and the (legendary) Lancia 037, both of which used the (lengendary, arguably) Abarth 16V head. ]]


It looks very encouraging.

 

[ArAkern]

Mark
This is a fascinating build thread, keep up the great work.

Could you give me your thinking around the camshaft selection?
I appreciate this is not a race car build but with the other engine upgrades was expecting something a little wilder.

The main reason for asking is this cam is on my shortlist for my 1300cc build. I now have concerns that it may be to much cam for my build spec.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Mark Bowden]

Thank you.
I notice you drive a 128 3P - nice car, rare as anything nowadays !
The thinking behind the camshaft selection -
Generally, to the car as a whole -
Some weight loss, a complete suspension and brake rebuild, lighter wheels, smaller tyre diameter, close ratios (all synchro) +LSD, lowered on coilovers, front ARB, Plaia top mounts and turret plates, revised track, revised geometry.
Not a lot of interest in driving the car at 100mph +
A lot of interest in handling dynamics and performance at lower speeds
Dislike of forced induction, lag, noticeable power bands / 'cammy' engines
Like of torque, flexibility.
Fast-road build.

The valve timing is fixed with variable pulley, and the camshaft reflects the size of the valves and their increased flow, so there's a compromise going on between torque at lower revs and the amount of flow that's possible at higher revs.

I'm hoping for a higher-revving, freer revving engine which is flexible in the lower ranges as well.

Should be very entertaining in this car I hope !