Touareg Issue

Lyons

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Folks, neighbours have a 2008 3.0TDi Touareg. She filled it with diesel at Sprucefield and before it got to the Hillsborough roundabout it died. Lost all power and said check engine. Now it won’t start at all and just ticks.

She’s had it recovered to 2 different google mechanics which turned out to be cowboys. The first one thought it was the injectors so replaced them, but made no difference. Then he reckoned it wasn’t to do with the fuel and was electrical related.

I scanned it myself last night using Carista and it came up with these codes, but a quick google would suggest neither would cost it to cut out as people have driven with these codes before.

232B1FD7-67F1-490B-AED9-B1724AE67FA6.png


She’s already spent a few hundred on recovery so is now reluctant to repeat the process only for the same thing to happen.

Anyone any suggestions? Are there any reputable mechanics that would call out to the house to diagnose from there? If not, the only place around the Lisburn-Banbridge area is the VAG place on the A1 somewhere. I’d be concerned about recommending somewhere that turns out to be a disaster too though!
 

Apis

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No suggestions about where to go, but tell her check her insurance in case she already has free breakdown cover.
 

Lyons

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I suppose if it’s getting recovered then it Shouldn’t matter what distance it has to go. Paul what’s your availability like at the minute? I’ll put it to her and see what she thinks.
 

NickR

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@pobmk4 would be the man. I think there is a couple of weeks wait for him at the minute though. At least there was when I was booking the A6 in for front pads earlier this month.
 

KevM

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If it’s just clicking, I’d be checking battery/alternator/starter and working from there. If the alternator has shat, the car will only go as far as the battery charge holds out
 

Lyons

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It’s not turning over at all now, I assumed due to numerous attempts by the various folk.
 

pobmk4

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I suppose if it’s getting recovered then it Shouldn’t matter what distance it has to go. Paul what’s your availability like at the minute? I’ll put it to her and see what she thinks.

Many thanks for the recommendations across the threads :joy:, unfortunately I'm currently booked up until the 18th July, but certainly could look at it if it's booked in. Unfortunately as many know, I'm quite hard to get hold of on the phone during the day due to working on customers vehicles but send a text and I'll get back to it when I get a chance.
 

-Pete-

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that definitely sounds like a dud alternator and the car has run as far as the battery could take it. get some jump leads on it or fire another battery in, just to test the theory. those codes are probably generated as a result of low voltage as the battery's been drained.
 

pobmk4

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No, those 2 fault codes are probably because the runner control motors are faulty, unfortunately only available as a complete manifold for each bank.
 

Lyons

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No, those 2 fault codes are probably because the runner control motors are faulty, unfortunately only available as a complete manifold for each bank.

Would they cause it not to start?
 

Lyons

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that definitely sounds like a dud alternator and the car has run as far as the battery could take it. get some jump leads on it or fire another battery in, just to test the theory. those codes are probably generated as a result of low voltage as the battery's been drained.

If the alternator was at fault, would the car start via jump leads?
 

Manta

RMS Member
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Try charging battery with a jump or battery charger and try and start it, if it starts remove jump leads/charger and see if the battery light is still lit on the dash while the engine is running, if the light is still lit then your neighbours car has an alternator fault as mentioned by pete, or loose/bad alternator connection or maybe another electrical fault causing no charge.

I also agree that fault codes can mean nothing and may already have been present in the ecu before the car brokedown, also best to use vcds with vag vehicles not some universal scan tool.

Main reputable vag dealers use vas diagnostics with a licence but vcds is a pretty good emulator to diy.
 
Last edited:

BobSpounge

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Would there not be a stack of other fault codes if there was an alternator or battery issue?
 
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