Tr7 V8 Fast Road/sprint/trackday Restoration Project.

[Lyons]

Those discs are amazing, I didn’t realise it was a thing to have them made especially.

 

[IL]

Those discs are amazing, I didn’t realise it was a thing to have them made especially.

The Drilled Brake discs?

 

[Lyons]

Yes.

 

[IL]

Yes.

Some Marking out & Cad Templete, Prit stick and a Drill

 

[pedenjohn]

I would imagine you’d be best with an engine builder who could also tune it. Any other way and one will blame the other.... that’s life

 

[IL]

I would imagine you’d be best with an engine builder who could also tune it. Any other way and one will blame the other.... that’s life

Exactly John!

TDP will be giving it the once over, installing the cams, running it in & mapping it.

I had hoped KGP in Donegal would do it but he has a backlog of 30odd engines to build

 

[Delboy23]

Who do you use? And what’s the car built for?

I use AP Performance in Galway, prob best engine builder and tuner in the uk. Mines a saloon race car

 

[IL]

I use AP Performance in Galway, prob best engine builder and tuner in the uk. Mines a saloon race car

Where do you race? Circuit race?

PS Galway is not in the UK

 

[svensktoppen]

Any builder or tuner will have had an issue at some point. It might be a component failure, or the customer says "get every last drop out of it", or someone else built it, or just **** happens or whatever. Then the rumour mill kicks into overdrive as usual, nobody has a clue what actually happened or even if anything did happen, just "all their engines blow up".

Just make sure whoever builds it also maps it, that way there is no argument. And be clear about if you want it reliable or want to tune the life out of it, etc.

 

[IL]

Any builder or tuner will have had an issue at some point. It might be a component failure, or the customer says "get every last drop out of it", or someone else built it, or just **** happens or whatever. Then the rumour mill kicks into overdrive as usual, nobody has a clue what actually happened or even if anything did happen, just "all their engines blow up".

Just make sure whoever builds it also maps it, that way there is no argument. And be clear about if you want it reliable or want to tune the life out of it, etc.

Go to someone with the best possible Reputation and Cross your fingers

Without going for a Full rebuild, nailing together an engine that's got 100k on it and been in a car that was Rolled on a fast long corner at 130mph, the mappers they have plenty of avenues to creep up if it goes wrong.

Finding someone game to map a Frankenstein that is familiar the hardware and software is difficult!

 

[IL]

Busying myself in the Background preparing the Engine, Gearbox & Wheels for Race Rubber.

@PeteMoore had prepared some parts for me, closing up parts of the waterpump, blocking pipes for environmental crap, Fuel Rail Fittings & Removing Oil caps and Battery terminal from the rocker covers.

This Allowed me to start and transfer the Sump system etc from the old M62 engine and finalise the oil pump mounts, sort the fuel rails and induction trumpets, filters etc.

Final few jobs before the engine goes to Wicklow for a check over and tuney bits..

Currently waiting on the flywheel to be made so I can mount the gearbox, measure for a new input shaft & also build up the clutch to have a spacer machined to set the slave cylinder clearance so all is ready to bolt into the shell when it returns.

Due to the tight fit of exhaust manifolds I have had to remove the studs from the head, and convert the bolts, obviously the threads in the alloy head would not last long, so I installed helicoils at each exhaust pick up, typical for the Tap to break in the head on the last stud

So in the Process now of trying to remove it.. Trying with Carbide drills, anyone else can anyone advise if this is the best drill for removing hardened steel?

Oh and the new wheels are machined up for Grp4 fitment, Powder coated and ready to be bolted together for a trial fit

11.5" Rears with 5" Dish

 

[Lee A]

wheels look the ticket, good work

 

[stevieturbo]

If a true carbide drill isnt doing it.....it'll be machine shop time. Maybe spark erosion or something ? But tapping aluminium....you shouldnt be breaking taps !

The wheels....are the faces that touch the front/rear sections powdercoated ? Is that normal ?
Powdercoating is soft, it will squish, generally anything that goes face to face, it is best not to have powdercoat on it.

 

[IL]

If a true carbide drill isnt doing it.....it'll be machine shop time. Maybe spark erosion or something ? But tapping aluminium....you shouldnt be breaking taps !

The wheels....are the faces that touch the front/rear sections powdercoated ? Is that normal ?
Powdercoating is soft, it will squish, generally anything that goes face to face, it is best not to have powdercoat on it.

thanks stevie,

I’ll buff the PC off the hub face side and the nut face to avoid any worry’s! As for the tapping, I got abit hungry on the forward drive and as you know I probably should have gone in 360deg then 180deg back to break the swarf but unfortunately my chinese taps broke

If a true carbide drill isnt doing it.....it'll be machine shop time. Maybe spark erosion or something ? But tapping aluminium....you shouldnt be breaking taps !

The wheels....are the faces that touch the front/rear sections powdercoated ? Is that normal ?
Powdercoating is soft, it will squish, generally anything that goes face to face, it is best not to have powdercoat on it.

ps it was tungsten carbide, true carbide are now in the post!

 

[stevieturbo]

A lot of drill bits say carbide etc, but are often just a coating.

ie. I've used this before on hardened steel, where the likes of HSS and other bits wouldnt even make a mark. This drilled it with ease. They are very brittle though

Sandvik R840-0550-30-A0A 5.5MM Solid Carbide Drill 1220 #GS7 | eBay

Flute Length - 27mm. Large quantities or Small!

www.ebay.co.uk

hard bit for your task in hand, is holding the drill in the right place. Other option is trying to weld a nut onto what's left, but that can be difficult if it's buried too far.

 

[gixermark]

serious progress young man !!! heart of a lion !!

 

[FM155]

Busying myself in the Background preparing the Engine, Gearbox & Wheels for Race Rubber.

@PeteMoore had prepared some parts for me, closing up parts of the waterpump, blocking pipes for environmental crap, Fuel Rail Fittings & Removing Oil caps and Battery terminal from the rocker covers.

View attachment 254928

View attachment 254927

View attachment 254929

View attachment 254926

This Allowed me to start and transfer the Sump system etc from the old M62 engine and finalise the oil pump mounts, sort the fuel rails and induction trumpets, filters etc.

View attachment 254930





View attachment 254933

Final few jobs before the engine goes to Wicklow for a check over and tuney bits..

Currently waiting on the flywheel to be made so I can mount the gearbox, measure for a new input shaft & also build up the clutch to have a spacer machined to set the slave cylinder clearance so all is ready to bolt into the shell when it returns.

Due to the tight fit of exhaust manifolds I have had to remove the studs from the head, and convert the bolts, obviously the threads in the alloy head would not last long, so I installed helicoils at each exhaust pick up, typical for the Tap to break in the head on the last stud

So in the Process now of trying to remove it.. Trying with Carbide drills, anyone else can anyone advise if this is the best drill for removing hardened steel?

View attachment 254935

View attachment 254934

Oh and the new wheels are machined up for Grp4 fitment, Powder coated and ready to be bolted together for a trial fit

View attachment 254936

11.5" Rears with 5" Dish

This will probably sound gash but I've used masonry nails to break up taps that have broken off in blind holes before. I didn't have access to drills hard enough to try and clean it out that way so I just chipped away at it with obo nails and it broke up pretty easily because it was so brittle. They were the only thing I had in the garage that was as hard as the tap. Bit chancy alright but gets the debris out so you can insert it or whatever. Done it a couple of times now and it's worked fine.

 

[IL]

This will probably sound gash but I've used masonry nails to break up taps that have broken off in blind holes before. I didn't have access to drills hard enough to try and clean it out that way so I just chipped away at it with obo nails and it broke up pretty easily because it was so brittle. They were the only thing I had in the garage that was as hard as the tap. Bit chancy alright but gets the debris out so you can insert it or whatever. Done it a couple of times now and it's worked fine.

Off to get some masonry nails and try this!! I had seen them being smashed using liquid nitrogen & a punch on YouTube!

@stevieturbo thankfully I’ve a Drill nicely started on it!!

@gixermark it will be finished one day

 

[FM155]

Yeah, the colder the tap / head is the better as it's more brittle. Leave it outside on a cold night for a good cold soak to get the whole block and heads down to a good low temp.

 

[IL]

@FM155 legend!! A couple of good slaps with a centre punch broke it in bits.. Managed to salvage enough threads to get an insert in & job jobbed without having to go oversize on the bolt or insert.

 

[Rob]

Good thing to know there. Wonder would freeze spray have made it more brittle and even easier to smash

PS, the rocker finish looks great. What sort of hp are you likely to get? Is the vanos still operational or not?

 

[IL]

Good thing to know there. Wonder would freeze spray have made it more brittle and even easier to smash

Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?

 

[Dave..]

Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?

Not sure if this would work,

Cuxson Gerrard Cryospray 59 x 6 cans 50ml

Cuxson Gerrard Cryospray 59

www.medisave.co.uk

 

[Rob]

Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?

Something like these

Freeze Spray Arctic 'Crack-It'® 400ml Aerosol Shock-Freeze Release Lubricant | eBay

Sealey Freeze Shock & Release Spray Lubricant 500ml SCS036S for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Sealey Freeze Shock & Release Spray Lubricant 500ml SCS036S at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[FM155]

Plumbers merchants have freeze sprays for blocking pipes to stop water flowing towards a leak when they are trying to fix it.

Edit: That stuff looks the ticket, glad it worked ok.