Tr7 V8 Fast Road/sprint/trackday Restoration Project.

sam_9n

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Exciting times!

That guy I mentioned has his own page now for the 3D printed stuff like the dash shroud

0851E11F-F758-4A35-96FE-078E4CB9F5FE.png
 
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IL

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Thanks for the Link Sam - mine arrived on Friday :grinning:

The car was run up to temp on Friday, but oil pressure issues meant no Dyno work could commence.

I was seeing 1.5bar of oil pressure at 1500rpm which I was happy enough with, but further up the rev range its not increasing as it should & the pressure adjustor on the pump is making no difference to the output. It would appear the feed to and from the oil reservoir in AN12 diameter pipe is restricting the oil the supply of oil and the car will need repiped in larger diameter AN16 pipework.

I examined the pics the company sent me that made the Drysump in 2013 and it would appear from the pics they used larger pipework on the Feed and Return.

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And also the other system available for these engines online uses larger pipework too

IMG_9669.jpg


Its Complete bollocks of a job, the openings in the bulk heads and troughs designed into the sills etc where all fabricated to accommodate AN12 pipework, and anything on these circuits (oil cooler / filter head block etc) will all need to be replaced for AN16 versions :worried:

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Fingers crossed it won't be too invasive but Better safe than sorry - Looks like i'll let TDP do this work to keep things moving on.
 

FM155

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Use aluminium hard lines in the tight spots and it will be close to the same OD as -12 hose. I've had to re-pipe a few cars with flexible hoses in places that should have been hard lines in the first place because they chafe on each other.
 

svensktoppen

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If that's the worst you've thrown up in shakedown then you're doing ok. A pain, but like you say, better to find out now than on the first track test.
 

IL

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@svensktoppen - Just have to get it sorted and get on with it. Im sure there will be loads more things crop they're head up!

@FM155 - i have only need hard lines on a factory setup, how are they made up? Flexi at each end? swaged to the hardpipe?

Hopefully have a plan tomorrow what way its going..
 

stevieturbo

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Make from stainless or aluminium and weld suitable fittings on.


or as the ID of a typical AN16 hose is around 22mm....you could use copper and just hose clamp even if it isn't pretty and some rules may not be happy about it inside the cabin if if it is zero risk.
 

FM155

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@FM155 - i have only need hard lines on a factory setup, how are they made up? Flexi at each end? swaged to the hardpipe?

Hopefully have a plan tomorrow what way its going..


Sorry, wasnt too clear above, -16 hard lines will be the same diameter as a -12 hose which might save a load of messing with the clipping points and bulkhead pass throughs you have.

You can get AN to hard line conversion fittings that swage on. Can also weld on a Male AN to the end of the tube and then have a short flex to the pump or the tank as required. The shorter flexible hoses are easier and cheaper to replace if they get damaged for any reason and more than likely only one end would need replacement rather than the whole run. Also, hard lines are a lot lighter than flexible hoses and easier to say to a scrutineer that there is no risk of fire with them.
 
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EF Ian

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Some issues were to be expected, while this one is annoying at least you caught it.

I was also thinking hard lines could be the answer. We have hardlines of all sizes used on the Yachts I work on, they can have a very nice look and are obviously a lot more durable than anything soft.
 

IL

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Well unfortunately TDP couldn't fit the car in for Re-Piping for the foreseeable & to be fair to they where honest and said they didn't want to damage the paintwork or be held responsible for any damage. Fitting and Removing the stainless braided hose if like running a file over the bodywork.

I was little bit disappointed heading back to Wicklow yesterday to collect the car, When I landed to collect the car I ask for a hand to load it up on but Robbie Said 'just drive it on..' They had spend a full day getting starting, idling and running smoothly..







Although it felt like step back it was a massive step forward, to proved out the majority of things.. and it will return for final mapping the first week of august after he Returns from supporting the New Redbull M4 drift cars in Latvia.

last night I made a large order of new fittings & pipework etc which should arrive tomorrow and Hopefully i'll have the oil pressure issues resolved over the weekend.
 

big_pete

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Wow what an angry sounding little thing! That is absolutely awesome stuff!

I wish I had the ability to have something like this but I am useless on the spanner’s and finding people to take on full projects is impossible
 
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IL

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Wow what an angry sounding little thing! That is absolutely awesome stuff!

I wish I had the ability to have something like this but I am useless on the spanner’s and finding people to take on full projects is impossible

If your not into the spanners even maintenance & upkeep of a 'project' can properly take the fun out of it. I really Enjoy that part too, albeit its definitely got harder now with 3 young kids - feeling Burnt out most evenings after my dinner!

Blistering heat in the Garage today, Managed to get the Full Oil system stripped..

11568A77-CAFC-4E8E-8A63-878D42ED6BF3.jpg


The Tank goes to have larger AN16 fittings welding in tomorrow and hopefully the remaining parts will arrive shortly to get it reassembled.
 

IL

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IMG_9726.jpg


AN16 pipework installed and routed - managed to shorten the run by 1m in each direction also which will do no harm..

IMG_9825.jpg


Some Painful cutting around the tank area to accommodate the larger fittings.. :worried: but needs must.. It is a racer after all..

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After contacting some of the BMW tuners and Dry sump suppliers, I found that I should also have blocked an oil feed in the block. Thank god this wasn't and engine out job to do..

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Plugged the block, completed the oil pipework, filled with oil, turned the oil pump down slightly..

IMG_9823.jpg


Result - 5.3 Bar oil pressure on idle.. will turn it down a bit more would like to see 3.5 bar on idle..

It was previously making a Max of 1.5 Bar throughout the Rev Range..

Back to Wicklow on Friday for Final mapping..
 
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IL

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Got an update on the Car yesteday to see how things where going in wicklow..

Geometry all done, new Rose jointed front Track rods made and mounted to eliminate all bump steer..

But still determined to try my patience - it has now ate the Diff / Bearings / the diff is so loud you can't hear the engine over it on load!!

It was build in 2015 by the best guy locally but it sat about dry for the last 5years - will have to be pulled down and check over before anymore mapping can take place :worried:

Fingers crossed some new bearings and Fresh oil will leave it useable again.

The Axle in that format should be good for around 600 lb/ft which I'm no where near.
 

Phil_D

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Got an update on the Car yesteday to see how things where going in wicklow..

Geometry all done, new Rose jointed front Track rods made and mounted to eliminate all bump steer..

But still determined to try my patience - it has now ate the Diff / Bearings / the diff is so loud you can't hear the engine over it on load!!

It was build in 2015 by the best guy locally but it sat about dry for the last 5years - will have to be pulled down and check over before anymore mapping can take place :worried:

Fingers crossed some new bearings and Fresh oil will leave it useable again.

The Axle in that format should be good for around 600 lb/ft which I'm no where near.


Good things come to those that wait :laughing: Seriously, well done for sticking with this, cant wait to see/hear it on the road..
 

stevieturbo

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Got an update on the Car yesteday to see how things where going in wicklow..

Geometry all done, new Rose jointed front Track rods made and mounted to eliminate all bump steer..

But still determined to try my patience - it has now ate the Diff / Bearings / the diff is so loud you can't hear the engine over it on load!!

It was build in 2015 by the best guy locally but it sat about dry for the last 5years - will have to be pulled down and check over before anymore mapping can take place :worried:

Fingers crossed some new bearings and Fresh oil will leave it useable again.

The Axle in that format should be good for around 600 lb/ft which I'm no where near.

Sitting dry should not pose any issues unless somehow the teeth actually rusted.. It'd take it to be in a fairly harsh environment for that though. If the noise is that bad, sounds like the teeth are mangled.
 
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IL

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Sitting dry should not pose any issues unless somehow the teeth actually rusted.. It'd take it to be in a fairly harsh environment for that though. If the noise is that bad, sounds like the teeth are mangled.

I had the back cover off and the teeth where not showing any sign of corrosion when i fitting the axle!

But If that is the case, thankfully its only a standard Ford Ratio so another one shouldnt be too difficult to locate or pay for!
 

FM155

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Holy frig, that's bad craic. Still, as long as the teeth aren't damaged, it should be a case of new bearings and re-setting the engagement and lash. Hopefully nothing too serious.
 
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IL

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Holy frig, that's bad craic. Still, as long as the teeth aren't damaged, it should be a case of new bearings and re-setting the engagement and lash. Hopefully nothing too serious.

Rebuild kit is in the post - Fingers Crossed!
 

stevieturbo

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I had the back cover off and the teeth where not showing any sign of corrosion when i fitting the axle!

But If that is the case, thankfully its only a standard Ford Ratio so another one shouldnt be too difficult to locate or pay for!

Many years ago a friend had a Quaife built into his Cossie casing by Gardners.

By the time he'd got to Comber and a bit of diffing etc, it was already ****ed. CWP ate itself. Lash had been set far far too tight. I thought myself it was very tight to turn over at the time, but they insisted it was fine and that's how a new one should be..

Nope...it wasn't. They tried to blame the oil and would take no responsibility for it.
 
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IL

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Many years ago a friend had a Quaife built into his Cossie casing by Gardners.

By the time he'd got to Comber and a bit of diffing etc, it was already ****ed. CWP ate itself. Lash had been set far far too tight. I thought myself it was very tight to turn over at the time, but they insisted it was fine and that's how a new one should be..

Nope...it wasn't. They tried to blame the oil and would take no responsibility for it.

I have located another CWP now locally, will collect it tomorrow - sounds like a spare wont be a bad thing! Old ford parts are getting thinner on the ground!
 
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