S- 2000 pieces

[Neil_M]

The POR 15 will have some self levelling. It varies on what colour you go for.

It will however be a very smooth finish.

The like of POR-15 can be picky about what you apply it too, however I haven't had a problem. The civic for example, will get its arches done at some stage, I will remove all the liners and trim, scrub away to get them as clean as possible with degreaser, then add a light key with a wire brush, treat any rust, then apply the POR-15 and leave it at that (possibly a little underseal over the top).

That's the underside of the civic with a few light coats of silver POR-15, I undersealed over the top of it for extra protection.

 

[Mrt20]

Cheers for the replies and I’ll deffo be careful with the disc @AndyG
Maybe this is me being a little anal, but I want it to look like new, that’s why I was going to get the arms powder coated, purely for aesthetics, and then all the shiny new bits attached.

Im definitely going to track this but the more I work and change everything I’m starting to think that a fully refreshed s2k with only 48,000 miles could also be a rare enough collectible to have.

As the arches sit at the minute can you just spray paint the insides/wishbone mounts etc or is there a specific step process to use. Literally clueless on this front.

Will POR15 make them look like new or does it look rough enough but does the job in its entirety.

Also having such a handling match trying to find an exhaust,. I know what I want it to sound like but haven’t yet found it out of the millions of videos I’ve watched.
Cheers
R

Exhaust wise it hard to past one of these
If you want a listen with a berk hi flow cat give me shout.
Are tracks quite strict on noise limits?

 

[civicglacier]

Cheers for the replies, maybe give you a shout also Neil, and I’d be keen to hear the bark hi flow Tom, where are you based?

 

[Neil_M]

No worries... Feel free to give me a shout if you are stuck or need any pointers.

It's all straight forward anyway.

Just be ready with gloves, old clothes etc... if it bonds to something, it really isn't coming off in a hurry.

 

[svensktoppen]

Either Por15 or powder coating will do the job. Personally I have found Por15 to last better, especially in continuous road use with chassis parts that get blasted with road debris. And powder coating to "look better" if that is more important.

Por15 is easier to apply, but if the surface is smooth then you need good prep with ech primer, etc. It will leave a smooth gloss finish with no visible brush strokes, etc.

Powder coating means sending away for blasting and coating. Blasting will remove material, which may or may not be a problem on some parts. For example, the Lotus wish bones are very thin to start with and you don't really want to "loose" any more.

Powder coating leaves a matte finish. There are many kinds of coating, with different costs, etc. The Zylan style coating on the last set of wish bones has held up very well, other "standard" type coatings I ended up applying Por15 on top.

All depends on use, expectations, etc. as usual. Personally I'm at the "utilitarian" end when it comes to chassis parts, all about how it works than how it looks. Although it's nice if it looks good too

 

[svensktoppen]

I actually just bought a box of the foam brushes similar to what comes with the POR15 starter pack. No cleaning required

Ah, managed to miss those, will have to give them a go next time! Normal brushes are basically single use with Por15, lol

 

[Neil_M]

Ah, managed to miss those, will have to give them a go next time! Normal brushes are basically single use with Por15, lol

You are quite right sir, all good points above too.

The foam brushes leave an even smoother finish, and they are disposable. A few quid on eBay.

There are loads of options on what you want to do.

 

[mark19]

Another one gets my vote on por15. Used it on all my.mk2 chassis parts. Real good

 

[Mrt20]

@civicglacier

Cheers for the replies, maybe give you a shout also Neil, and I’d be keen to hear the bark hi flow Tom, where are you based?

Sorry didnt make it clear I also have a hks spec l exhaust fitted as well a berk hi flow cat. It was fitted to my car by the previous owner, I thought I would hate it as I am Mr oem, But I actually quite like it. You are welcome for listen anytime, Based in Sprucefield btw

 

[civicglacier]

Would definitely like a listen , I’m moira direction so not far.

Got in contact with junior Corry at custom finishing ni and got the car looked at for welding by Jonny who was recommended.

A small patch in the boot needs welded and the front of the rear arches where they join the sills could do with a touch up/treat but he says nothing bad.

Rear crash barrier will have to be new as it is completely rotten and flaking off as is the rear bumper mount which will be replaced.

Everything else really good,. Nothing around the bulkhead and only front of the sills had a bit of surface rust that could do with being treated.

Once the welding is done ,which I think will be a few evenings work, the rear cradle will come out and the whole underside rubbed down treated and sealed.
I’ll use the current cradle as a copycat,to try and piece the new one together when the arms / hubs etc are done.

Cheers
R

 

[svensktoppen]

That's a lot of work, good on you for sticking with it

 

[Neil_M]

That's a lot of work, good on you for sticking with it

100% these cars are worth sticking with, as you will be replacing so much on it, you are improving it with every job you do.

 

[civicglacier]

Yea that’s the way I’m looking at it, may as well do it all now if this far. A lot of it is time consuming rather than massive amounts of money, although I’m sure it’ll run into a fair enough sum by the time it’s totally finished.

Initially for the track but if I decide to hold on to it I’ll know it’s solid and worth maybe wrapping or painting to keep.

 

[civicglacier]

Process started last night to remove the rear crash barrier. As it’s being replaced I just took to it with a grinder as it’s awkward enough to get at the nut to separate from the body. When the build of the barrier is away it’ll be easier.

Also wanted a few opinions.

Ap1 or ap2 front? I think I know myself what I want but open to suggestions.

Ap1

Ap2

Cheers R

 

[svensktoppen]

AP1

 

[Neil_M]

AP1

What she said.

I think the AP1 looks a little wider and / or more aggressive.

 

[civicglacier]

My thoughts exactly.
What I’ve also found is that mine is a 2001 but currently has an AP2 front bumper on it.

From what I can see there’s been no accident damage to the front so it could just have been preference by a previous owner.

I will be in the lookout for a cheap ap1 front now also.

 

[civicglacier]

Got stuck in a bit more.

Took the side strikes off and found they were veilsides,. Which I think are the rare discontinued ones., which made me laugh anyways as they are the cause of a bit of rust in the back sills.

Also go the wings off after some work. The bolts into the sills were all gunked up with dirt and weakened through a few bad jack ups over the years, so I drilled them out to remove a few of them. I’ll get the welder to tac on a few new brackets to the wing when he’s doing the other bits and pieces. Will also need him to tac nuts on to the inside of the sill to bolt the wing through to as they are now ruined after drilling.

Both sides now ready for degreasing.

Also got into taking the prop shaft out as I need it and the exhaust off to drop the rear cradle out intact.

Dropped the cradle down a bit to make sure there was give in the bolts. Should come out fine when ready.

Once it’s out the welding and degreasing of everything will begin.
#groundup

 

[Cro]

There was a front set of veilside spats to match as well, genuine and really rare when I looked

 

[civicglacier]

Crash barrier also off and it’s what caused the boot to rust.

 

[civicglacier]

@Cro , did you ever underseal the car?

 

[Cro]

@Cro , did you ever underseal the car?

No buddy, not sure I Can remember seeing any either

 

[civicglacier]

I think it has been but I’m no expert. It’s covered in a black rubbery coating underneath but I’m not sure if this is standard or not.
I’ll fire a picture up later as I was wondering whether I should wire wheel it all off, and redo, or just go over the top of it as it looks tidy enough.

 

[mcmurray]

Could have been waxoiled. Have a look for overspray on the exhaust/shafts/etc. It's black and rubbery.

 

[civicglacier]

Might recruit you to come round and have a gander Ryan