S- 2000 pieces

civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Hi folks,

After a bit of advice if possible.
The rust on the back of the sill/shirt where it meets the arch, is this something a welder / fabricator could fix and get perfectly back into shape or should it be welding part of a quarter in?
Shown below

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There is also a tiny bit of bubbling at the top of the arch,


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Any and all advice welcome
 

Neil_M

RMS Regular
Messages
4,766
Good bodyworker/welder could make that look like new. Have seen far worse repairedand you wouldn’t know it was ever welded

I agree Andy.

I would personally seek out the advise of a body shop and see what they say. Though they may want to see the car in the flesh of course.
 

civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
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So after a few weeks not getting near it and with help from my mechanic, we got the whole car stripped.

Rear subframe came out in its entirety.

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Propshaft also out and took the exhaust off at front of the cat as the bolts behind it joining the rear section were seized.

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This is the way it sits underneath so I think it’s defiiyely been waxoyled. Fuel lines look a bit worse for wear so I’ll change them when the time comes.

Few pics of underneath before cleaning,


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A lot of the rough looking stuff is actually just dirt so I’ll get to cleaning and degreasing that all back I think.

Awaiting a welder to sort a new of the niggley bits and then get a body man to tidy up the rest of the “shape” if it needs it afterwards. That way if I decide to wrap it it’ll be ready to go.

As the underside looks, rather than take all the wax coating off, could I spray over it with something, even if it was just black paint?
Or should I do something else.

What would you do if t was yours?
 

Neil_M

RMS Regular
Messages
4,766
Personally I'd clean it off, then at least you know what you are dealing with... There could be more bad news hiding in there somewhere.

PITA of a job though.

Once it's cleaned off you can DIY it and at least you know its done right.
 

civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Back at it this last few days and a bit more done.

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Took the petrol tank , brake lines and fuel lines out to start.
Cut the majority of them and took the black unit above out with bits connected so I’d remember where they went.

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Tank was a bit dented so I’ll see can we do something with it.

Few pictures with tank and fuel lines off.

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That’s me poking holes with a screwdriver but it’s really only the back/bottom of the skirts arch that need work.

Car is going shortly for new arches and fabrication work, then painted underneath and hopefully is back looking like new to re re-assembled.

Getting there but it is a slow process!
 

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civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Ok, so before going to the fabricator I found out I have to strip all of the wax off before it can be primed to,

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Just shows how much grease and grime get up round it as it cleans up fine,. It’s just an absolute poison job, and in this heat it’s extra tough.

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At least Ill know there are no hidden gremlins underneath for the future.

Looking forward to it coming back like new to be rebuilt.

Also decided on a type of wheel,.

Just have to get them to fit now,

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chrisdromore

RMS Regular
Messages
3,066
Drives
a8
Nice wheels what size u going for ? I have 16s on my s2000 and tempted by gloss back 17s
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Yes I’m thinking 17’s,
8’ at the front and 9s at the back.

The plan is that It is going to be tracked and then retired as a weekend / summer car afterwards.

I’m also looking at the new feals coil overs as well as the ohlins as they are getting great early reviews.
 

**mugen**

RMS Regular
Messages
863
Location
Here and There
Drives
Big 9'er
Definitely recommend the ohlins, had them on my fd2 great suspension for the road and track.

If I was to change suspension on my s2 that’s wat I would be buying (y) Can’t beat quality and ride comfort.
 

civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Been a while since an update and with getting married nothing much happened the last few months.

Got back into it though and making progress.

Decided to take the engine and box out again as I want the engine bay and gearbox tunnel redone,.and ultimately wanted to see every part to make sure we’re getting everything done.
Tucked the wiring up to the bulkhead and disconnected the ecu on the passenger side.

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Stupidly,. We didn’t have enough room to walk the crane backwards to tilt the gearbox enough to get it out,. But it was actually easier to lower it down and then lift the shell out over it.

De wax oiled the majority at this stage and just the flat underneath to finish.

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Engine mount was completely separated also

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Another reason for doing this was that I could tidy up the front Subframe and get it coated also along with the steering pump/rack.

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It’ll hopefully be ready for the bodywork within the next week or so.

Also promised myself that I wouldn’t paint or modify the exterior of this car but the more you look ..., they can become pretty mean/cool when done right., thought this was class

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civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
This literally does take ages.

Thought id fire some progress pics up.
Have more or less everything stripped and de wax oiled with only the bay and tunnel to do.

Hopefully get it away to get the bad bits done away with and a clean shell to begin rebuilding.

Engine is also going for full strip down and rebuild where necessary. I’m hoping it doesn’t need much as it was bought with 43k on it but best to check at this stage.

Definitely new upgraded retainers that the 2nd generation came with, and any other preventative maintenance.

Few snaps

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civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
No rush on it Neil. Want to get a yarn with you anyway about the powder coating of a few things so I’ll give you a shout sir. 👍🏻
 

civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
The whole underside and bay are going to be the same colour as the exterior.
I was thinking silver cradle and front subframe and then all silver suspension arms also.

All of the heat shields and brackets that I’ve taken off are labelled and the thought is also to do them all silver when powder coating to give a bit of contrast.

Any thoughts and opinions welcome 💪🏻

And as always,. Anyone who’s done something similar and thinks I could benefit from some advice,.. shout! 👌
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
The plans have changed slightly in the last few weeks and a bit more going on.

I have stripped so much and am in this deep that I’ve decided to redo everything.
Going to get the shell blasted inside and out then arch repair and paint and then rebuild the shell.

At this stage, tracking it mightn’t be an option but we’ll see what happens.

The doors/boot/bonnet and wings can then be blasted at a later date for painting when the car is built and running, that way I’ll not damage anything rebuilding it I’m thinking.

So out comes everything,

Dash/trims and wiring.

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This is where it gets a bit daunting with all the wiring but everything tagged, photod and bagged from top to bottom.

The roof/lights/seatbelt motors take a while to remove but I’m starting to understand how every thing works which is why I started this in the first place...putting back together will be the test.

As it’s going back to bare, trying to think what to do colour wise, stay the same or something different.

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nobby

RMS Regular
Messages
3,149
Location
wee Norn Iron
Drives
Jap stuff
as you have taken it back this far ... it would be an ideal time for you to bring back to OEM.

good thread ... hope all goes well with next stage. will watch with interest
 
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