Treating rust

stevieturbo

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It looks that way but doesn't seem to develop, and you don't want to start stripping off the paint again to find out. :mad:


Ultimately I doubt any of the products will 100% stop rust.

Yes they may slow its progress and will certainly hide it under whatever layer etc it produces. But the rust is still there, and you know it's gonna kick off again at some point. But likely it'll take a few years and by then the vehicle has probably changed hands anyway
 

thefool1983

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Belfast
BUMP on this!
As some will have seen on my 350z thread (Budget 2004 350z DE) , I'm nearly ready to treat rust and paint the underside.

I have wire wheeled most of the rust and am back to a mix of decent metal and rust.

Whats the best to treat this with. I fancy using a rust convertor as opposed to the likes of POR15. Was looking at this or similar: Amazon product ASIN B001CRETZW
Which I would follow up with zinc paint and prob waxoyl on top.

Once I have floor sorted, I'm going to pump the sill cavities full of waxoyl (have some of the original more potent stuff)

Any help appreciated

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20210406_173153.jpg
 

Woodcutter

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stevieturbo

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I used some of this with recent stuff....

Will know in 10-15 years if it works lol.

 

thefool1983

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Belfast
I used some of this with recent stuff....

Will know in 10-15 years if it works lol.

Cheers @stevieturbo ordered 2.5l of that stuff this morning.
Will hold you personally responsible if it doesn't work 🤣🤣.

Like you say though, its only a sticking plaster. My plan is to stick 2 coats of that stuff on and a couple of layers of zinc paint then a dose of wayoyl over the top of it all.
 

stevieturbo

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It does leave a coating over the rust etc you can paint over. And allegedly this seals it up to stop it going further.

They seem to claim it's used in a lot of harsh environments in industry, so who knows really. I did slap some on one half of an old brake disc sitting outside that was rusty, but it's only been a few months. But the coating has stayed there.

I also injected it into a lot of cavities in the car after I'd been welding and repairing rust, as figured it might be better than waxoyl. It does dry pretty well....and wear gloves, it's a nightmare to clean off your hands if you let it dry at all on them.

But it seems to be harmless otherwise, and as water based, brushes are easy cleaned after use. ( don't leave it to dry on them either though )

But it does seem specific about it needing to be applied to rust to work, as opposed to clean bare metal. Although I guess clean bare metal doesn't need rust killer lol.
I slapped it on everywhere.
 

eamon343

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3,124
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Belfast
Cheers @stevieturbo ordered 2.5l of that stuff this morning.
Will hold you personally responsible if it doesn't work 🤣🤣.

Like you say though, its only a sticking plaster. My plan is to stick 2 coats of that stuff on and a couple of layers of zinc paint then a dose of wayoyl over the top of it all.

This stuff is really good

 

Coog

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I've been (very very slowly) working on a spray on rust prevention treatment for cars / bikes for a number of months now. It would be something clear that would be sprayed on periodically (probably annually) to help keep rust at bay. Similar sort of thing to ACF50 but hopefully cheaper and easier to use.

Been kind of flat out on other ventures but promise to get a few test pieces set out and report back with results soon.
 

PAULW

RMS Regular
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818
@thefool1993

Once you've mechanically cleaned the rust with the wire brush, you want to apply Bilt hamber hydrate 80, this will convert the rust in a similar manner to the aquasteel mentioned here.

Then you want to overcoat this with paint, there are numerous good options here, generally super dense epoxy paints such as Bilt hamber epoxy mastic or epoxy mastic 121.

At this point you can put some thicker stone chip over the top of it, i'd choose upol gravitex.

Finally you want some kind of wax, cavities need done with Bilt hamber dynax s50 and the underside with Bilt hamber UC (which is clear) or UB (which is black). @Woodcutter I believe sells dinitrol, so it will have some very similar wax based products for this final, annual protection.

With all the other work you've done, the old girl will last a long time!
 

thefool1983

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Belfast
I've been (very very slowly) working on a spray on rust prevention treatment for cars / bikes for a number of months now. It would be something clear that would be sprayed on periodically (probably annually) to help keep rust at bay. Similar sort of thing to ACF50 but hopefully cheaper and easier to use.

Been kind of flat out on other ventures but promise to get a few test pieces set out and report back with results soon.
Class. You are definitely a man of many talents!🤣
@thefool1993

Once you've mechanically cleaned the rust with the wire brush, you want to apply Bilt hamber hydrate 80, this will convert the rust in a similar manner to the aquasteel mentioned here.

Then you want to overcoat this with paint, there are numerous good options here, generally super dense epoxy paints such as Bilt hamber epoxy mastic or epoxy mastic 121.

At this point you can put some thicker stone chip over the top of it, i'd choose upol gravitex.

Finally you want some kind of wax, cavities need done with Bilt hamber dynax s50 and the underside with Bilt hamber UC (which is clear) or UB (which is black). @Woodcutter I believe sells dinitrol, so it will have some very similar wax based products for this final, annual protection.

With all the other work you've done, the old girl will last a long time!
Cheers mate.
Going to go with stevies rust convertor above.
Hopefully get another few years out of it anyway
 

Burt2000

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If anyone is using a zinc paint, don’t bother with the aerosols they are not very good, get yourself a tin of zinga it’s a proper zinc paint and it works! Just make sure to prep the surface properly

 

Lappintyre

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Is the likes of this too far gone? No doubt @Coog will recognise the model 😂

Have looked at a few now and they’re all the same


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Burt2000

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That’s pretty bad. If you are after a keeper I would keep looking, thing is most uk stuff will be like that now, there’s no way around it if they have been used year round since new.

other option is slap a load of black waxoyl on it and pretend it’s not there😂
 

FM155

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Alfa 155
Is the likes of this too far gone? No doubt @Coog will recognise the model 😂

Have looked at a few now and they’re all the same


View attachment 322510

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I'd say yes, I take it that's a Mk3 MX5 which seems to be just as bad as the Mk1 & 2 for dissolving.
I have a pair of Mk2 subframes and wishbones that I bought to re-condition and swap out with what's currently on the car but I honestly think it's all scrap after having poked and scraped at a few bits of them. I've poked holes in wishbones and some just split apart when I tried to press out the bushes etc.
They look similar to those in your pics tbh. I'd be running away.
 

FM155

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Alfa 155
The vertical section of the front crossmember looks frigged, very rusty. Usually, if that's what the bolt on bits are like, the bits they are bolted to don't look much better.
 
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