Waxoyl lanoguard waste oil dinitrol?

[Woodcutter]

If anyone needs rust converter or treatment products, drop me a PM.

I stock Dinitrol, Bilt Hamber and various other brands depending on budget.

 

[BobSpounge]

Been laying on some Dynax UC over the past few days. Smells just like lanoguard but seems to go on a bit thicker which is good.

 

[Lyons]

Not as bad as I was expecting. Just a case of cleaning, going over it with a wire brush then firing the ML on? I take it you do take the worst of it off first?

 

[DJMCA]

Not as bad as I was expecting. Just a case of cleaning, going over it with a wire brush then firing the ML on? I take it you do take the worst of it off first?

View attachment 413497
View attachment 413498
View attachment 413499

If you mean Lanoguard its says on their website you just wash well and remove loose rust.

Been laying on some Dynax UC over the past few days. Smells just like lanoguard but seems to go on a bit thicker which is good.

Any pics? Looking at using it myself and want something that dries and not messy

 

[Blackie]

Not as bad as I was expecting. Just a case of cleaning, going over it with a wire brush then firing the ML on? I take it you do take the worst of it off first?

View attachment 413497
View attachment 413498
View attachment 413499

I tend to spray on some zinc primer after cleaning before then applying whatever treatments.

 

[PAULW]

@Lyons take any loose stuff off with a wire brush, then ideally treat the rust with something like Bilt hamber hydrate 80, paint with some zinc primer, then spray on dinitirol ml and then top coat it with dinitrol 4941.

The ML is a wax brown product that stays tacky, you wouldn't want just it on bare metal. If it were me, looking at the good condition of your car, I'd knock off anything loose, spray ML on the underside and then a load of dintrol 4941 (it dries nicely) and you'll have a nice job). If you want it to be a clear finish, then don't bother with the ML and just spray on Bilt hamber dynax UC but it stays a little tacky too but not bad.

Most recently I bought a jar of fluid film (inspired by @Coog and his lanolin adventures), it's similar to lanoguard but much better value and needs minimal prep and will keep your car rust free if you lather the underside in it.

 

[Lyons]

Cheers for that. I spent all day getting the underside and arches prep’d then started on the ML. But I hadn’t realised it was clear, so it’s not what I want (need something to hide what I’ve exposed!).

Is 4941 clear too or black?

Edit- missed your first paragraph.

 

[PAULW]

Dinitrol 4941 is black. ML is brown (or at least any I have used is)

 

[BobSpounge]

Any pics? Looking at using it myself and want something that dries and not messy

Sorry no. They'd be no good to you really as I lashed a couple of coats of it on under the wheel arch covers, don't care what it looks like under there.

Here's one of some suspension components that I did previously though. That's 2 coats.

 

[Apis]

Cheers for that. I spent all day getting the underside and arches prep’d then started on the ML. But I hadn’t realised it was clear, so it’s not what I want (need something to hide what I’ve exposed!).

Is 4941 clear too or black?

Edit- missed your first paragraph.

I use 3 different Dinitrols to complete a job.
ML is runny: used for the cavities and for a light coat over everything before next stage.
Then 3125 Brown for most areas like chassis/floor/sills over the top of the ML.
And 4941 Black for anywhere that's subject to heavier wear and stonechips like arches.

The 3125 is the thick waxy one. ML is much thinner. 4941 is a bit more like traditional shutz.

(ML is available in Brown or clear, but I've only ever used brown)

 

[Lyons]

So although ML finishes waxy, you can still apply 3125 and 4941 on top?

 

[PAULW]

Yes, you can apply those over the top to give a more resilient finish.

 

[Lyons]

Splendid. @Woodcutter do you have 3125 and 4941 in stock? Up north again so will WhatsApp you in the morning.

 

[Lyons]

1 coat of each of these, or better to do more @PAULW and @Apis ?

Got a coat of ML on this evening there. Also took the grinder to all arch lips and some rust on the kick plates too. Will treat all the “hidden” stuff first before moving on to primer and paint work though. Beginning to regret starting, but at least I know it’ll be done right and will prolong the life of the car.

 

[Apis]

1 coat of each of these, or better to do more @PAULW and @Apis ?

I only do one coat, but I do a light coat of ML under the 3125, so I suppose you might call that two coats.
You could adjust the air pressure or speed of travel to make a lighter or heavier coat.

 

[PAULW]

1 coat of each of these, or better to do more @PAULW and @Apis ?

Got a coat of ML on this evening there. Also took the grinder to all arch lips and some rust on the kick plates too. Will treat all the “hidden” stuff first before moving on to primer and paint work though. Beginning to regret starting, but at least I know it’ll be done right and will prolong the life of the car.

I'd do only one coat, your car looked in good shape so it wouldn't need too much work.