Waxoyl lanoguard waste oil dinitrol?

Joe 90

RMS Regular
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86
I've always used waxoyl, some people say its rubbish but if the car isn't too bad to start with i think it does a good enough job for a year, especially on floor pan. But my problem is when something is badly rusted like an axle or subframe then within a couple of weeks its gone. I'm guessing these parts are probably more exposed too.
I power hose it and wire brush it first but if its heavily scaled I think the waxoyl doesn't penetrate into it.
Something like a diff cover for example and you can't start chapping with a screwdriver or in around subframe were you cant get tools in properly.
Some people have said a mixture of oil and diesel penetrates it better but I don't think it would stay on for long either.
Is lanoguard or bilt hamber or dinotrol or fluid film or any others actually any better for this or just a gimmick? Has anybody coated a rusted pick up chassis and came back a year later and said thats done a good job.
The lanoguard looks easy to apply with no washing guns etc and you don't have to do it all at once and easy to touch up but its twice the price of waxoyl.
I use a body shutz gun but maybe its coming out to fast. I just watched someone on youtube their and their gun had a hose on it but it was coming out really slow with loads of air which would have took ages but I'd say it was blowing it deeper into the rust and cracks etc rather than mine is a quick whoosh over it and more applied.
Any tests on youtube is done on clean metal which is not like trying to attach to a rusty surface and I think most people using these products are trying to make a rusty vehicle last longer rather than putting on new cars.
And lastly where do yous normally buy it at best value?
 

gpaevo

RMS Regular
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9,376
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North Down Riviera
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Audi B9.5
I Lanoguard'd the full underside of my Ranger last year. Very easy to apply, did the whole truck in 30 mins. Have enough left to do it again twice over easily.

Longevity, it's had 12 months of power washing and road salt etc and still has a film coverage as stated.

I used it as an intern measure and had planned to Dinitol the whole thing this summer (did my Evo's etc with it). Lanoguard has lasted so far but when it all comes off, and if I plan to keep the truck then I'll definitely do the
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job with Dinatrol and the compressor.

Rock solid protection for many many years - Dinatrol.

Interim measure which could be applied annually very quickly then Lanoguard.
 

stevieturbo

RMS Regular
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21,096
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Antrim
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Old Ford
As with most stuff, preparation will make a big difference.

Waxoyl is fine, but needs to be applied warm, and to surfaces 100% clean and dry. ie. zero moisture. But that would apply to most as you do not want to trap moisture in which will cause problems later on

I doubt winter is the time of year to be applying anything unless you can do so in a well heated garage.

Although I've seen a few old cars, where some sort of thick oily substance has been used and it has worked fantastically. Some used to say old gear oil as it was sticky, but no idea what it really was.
But again probably helped by being applied clean and dry when new, before anything nasty has had a chance to take hold.

Only ever seen the adverts for Lanoguard...no idea what it actually is or how good it may be
 

Coog

Admin
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GTI
If the underside is already good then my advice would be to use Lanoguard. Waxoyl is a curse to apply and if not applied appropriately it will make things much worse.


Yeah working on something. It's basically my own blend but I don't know how to take it further. Maybe @Big Pimp can help me? I've been so busy with other business stuff that I've only really started testing this recently and I'm not equipped with the means or knowledge in how to progress testing or indeed manufacture it in significant enough quantities.

Anyway, it sprays on easily in cold weather, dries waxy (though it takes a few days in this cold weather) and appears to do the job of keeping rust at bay. Treatment on my MK2 took about an hour to do myself for all arches, underneath, door shuts and engine bay.

This is my car just treated before using it this winter. Lashed it everywhere bar brakes, belts and stuff that gets hot.

IMG_6142 (1).jpg


It dries waxy and repels water and rust. This is a piece of steel I half treated and just left outside for past month or so with the occasional sprinkle of table salt on it. Just took a photo there this morning and wiped it with the back of my hand (no material transferred to my hand, just water).

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I also found out it's a really good black trim restorer too.
 

BobSpounge

RMS Regular
Messages
6,150
I've the Mk5 done with Dynax UB and Dynax UC but it does no miles and won't see any road salt so can't comment on how good it is.

The Dynax products do need more prep than the lanoguard which I put on the wife's Mk7 a couple of weeks ago after power washing the underneath and letting it dry for a couple of days. Covered up the brake discs and just lashed it on everywhere. Very easy to apply. I'll give it a wash underneath in the spring and see how it's lasted. I'll reserve judgement until then.
 

stevieturbo

RMS Regular
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21,096
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Antrim
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Old Ford
That's the problem with any of these products. It will take years to see if they really work.

Sure even cleaning it and painting it will seal it up for a period of time. But it needs to kill/neutralise the rust, seal it up and protect. No small task really. Especially getting to all the rust to kill/seal it so it cannot return.
 

Joe 90

RMS Regular
OP
J
Messages
86
Is dinitrol not a sealer. I'm weary of rusting under sealers.
The problem is if something is badly corroded its not always practical to remove all the scale. If you started hammering and chipping you'd soon need a full restoration. For example toyota avenis back subframe and arms etc. You could keep poking and cleaning to you get holes in any of them.
If they were soaked in engine oil and kept oiled they would stop rusting like a sump. An old Japanese car would have a clean rotten sump and some old French car that's always leaked oil with a sump that looks like new.
Mk1 sorento back axles had rust problems and you couldn't get them and I heard they painted them with gear oil and they were supposed to last a lot longer.
 

mark19

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golf
Is dinitrol not a sealer. I'm weary of rusting under sealers.
The problem is if something is badly corroded its not always practical to remove all the scale. If you started hammering and chipping you'd soon need a full restoration. For example toyota avenis back subframe and arms etc. You could keep poking and cleaning to you get holes in any of them.
If they were soaked in engine oil and kept oiled they would stop rusting like a sump. An old Japanese car would have a clean rotten sump and some old French car that's always leaked oil with a sump that looks like new.
Mk1 sorento back axles had rust problems and you couldn't get them and I heard they painted them with gear oil and they were supposed to last a lot longer.
If you want a rust killer and then sealer go for por15
 

Apis

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I've done my motorhome with Dinitrol about 18months ago and so far so good. The brown one (4941 I think) for the underbody and axle etc. stays sort of sticky and apparently has an active anti-corrosion ingredient. The black one that sets slightly harder for the arches and the runny one for the cavities. You can get it in clear too.
Hasn't had any salt use to be fair but still looks almost as good. It's not cheap but I rate it way higher than Waxoyl.

On the gear oil suggestions, I keep hearing about gear oil being carcinogenic, so I'll be avoiding it and definitely wouldn't be spraying it on.
 

Joe 90

RMS Regular
OP
J
Messages
86
I thought I'd try some lanoguard but I have to say I'm not really that impressed.
I used a rusty bit of box section and done 5 different parts. Nothing, waste oil, diesel, waxoyl and lanoguard.
Its lay outside for 3 days and it looks like the lanoguard is rusting already with orange starting to come through and all the rest are perfect.
I'll know better the longer I leave but I can't believe what I'm seeing for how much it cost.
 

BobSpounge

RMS Regular
Messages
6,150
I thought I'd try some lanoguard but I have to say I'm not really that impressed.
I used a rusty bit of box section and done 5 different parts. Nothing, waste oil, diesel, waxoyl and lanoguard.
Its lay outside for 3 days and it looks like the lanoguard is rusting already with orange starting to come through and all the rest are perfect.
I'll know better the longer I leave but I can't believe what I'm seeing for how much it cost.

I was going to suggest you post your findings on their user Facebook page but it looks like you have already. I bet you wish you hadn't now. Like being set upon by a pack of wild dogs!!! The fanboys don't seem to like any criticism.
 
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Johnny_E

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Waringstown
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I've just given the arms on my C220 a dose of ACF50. Don't suppose I'll have any feedback mind you for a good year or so!
 

Coog

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I thought I'd try some lanoguard but I have to say I'm not really that impressed.
I used a rusty bit of box section and done 5 different parts. Nothing, waste oil, diesel, waxoyl and lanoguard.
Its lay outside for 3 days and it looks like the lanoguard is rusting already with orange starting to come through and all the rest are perfect.
I'll know better the longer I leave but I can't believe what I'm seeing for how much it cost.

My test piece is starting to rust now but it lay face down in a salty sludge for a week!

Did you mix it up well before applying? Lanolin is very good at rust prevention but it’s mixed in with thinners in lanoguard so could be a chance none of the lanolin actually made it to the box section.

It’s expensive for what it is though.
 

gpaevo

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North Down Riviera
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Audi B9.5
Interested to hear how this is holding up? Im thinking about doing the underside of my transporter with lanoguard.
2 years nearly to the day since i sprayed it with Lanoguard. Bare in mind it's not been washed since the cold snap, so some of that is mud/salt etc
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Cossers

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This stuff is unreal! Pretty messy to spray on but I had it one for two years and made the mistake of trying to get it off as I thought I had to re apply it…..nightmare….. stuff was like new under it, just looked dirty was all, re applied it again and have left it alone ever since, will only remove to replace a component if needed

Amazon product ASIN B00CU6STFK
 
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