As stated the D5 boxes tend not to give much bother (although with 200k it has lived a life). Might be quicker/easier sourcing a replacement box - shouldn't be too difficult to source a good 2nd hand unit.No joy I am afraid lads.
Took it a run up and down my road a few times to get the box up to temp for a final check and no drive again when the box got to 70degrees.
It actually drove well and shifted very smoothly while it did drive.
Any thoughts on what is happening?
If its not over heating it surely has to electrical, how long does it have to be switched off for before it starts to drive again?
Does it fail at the exact same temperature each time?
As stated the D5 boxes tend not to give much bother (although with 200k it has lived a life). Might be quicker/easier sourcing a replacement box - shouldn't be too difficult to source a good 2nd hand unit.
Wonder is it a sticky clutch?? Bit of crap making it stick.
As said, it would be worth a second hand box and there is a guy in Lisburn breaking one.
And just as I type, I wonder would a powerflush do it any good?
Give Burnside Garage in Coleraine a ring. Really decent guys and they are auto box specialists. They could give you an idea what's happening and cost.
Time for an upgrade Anton, get the cash out!
That's who recovered it back to my house. I know Timmy fairly well. Chatting briefly to him and he says best option is to get a second hand box for it.
I'm just after buying another 535d which was to retire my own
I'm just after buying another 535d which was to retire my own
Was actually thinking its something to do with the torque converter when you mentioned earlier about it stalling the engine. Lockup solenoid could be exactly the problem.Had another footer today. Drained out 250ml. Checked for any change...nothing, still stalling when put into drive/ reverse.
Another 250ml out, same result.
Full empty of the sump (oil still filthy) and refill.
Same result.
I reckon the lock up solenoid has stuck shut/ open, whichever way it works.
Might pull the cover off to get at the valve block but that's a whole handlin' as the subframe needs dropped. A job for another day.
Mission failed for now.
Pauxhall suffer from this, especially Zafira & Astra. Volvo run the cooler in the rad but never heard of one failing.I had this happen with a CLK mercedes a few years back. Would drive fine to warm then slowly 'slip' until no drive. I tried everything, multiple flushes, new electrical board inside the box, replaced the valve body, still no change. Ended up replacing the box fixed it. The radiator and gearbox cooler are combined on those mercs and the gear oil had mixed with the glycol in the coolant, ruining the clutch pack in the box. Not sure if volvo have a similar design, but either way, clutch packs were smoked.
I had this happen with a CLK mercedes a few years back. Would drive fine to warm then slowly 'slip' until no drive. I tried everything, multiple flushes, new electrical board inside the box, replaced the valve body, still no change. Ended up replacing the box fixed it. The radiator and gearbox cooler are combined on those mercs and the gear oil had mixed with the glycol in the coolant, ruining the clutch pack in the box. Not sure if volvo have a similar design, but either way, clutch packs were smoked.
Would it not be obvious that the oil had water in it too.
not quite as simple as that, coolant is under more pressure, maybe more so than the gear oil at a guess. i get your logic but not sure exactly why, coolant was clean in that merc too.They do have a similar design. However if water/coolant was getting into the gearbox I'd expect the oil to get into the water system also and show up in the header tank. Water/coolant is clean as a whistle