Any VR6 GURU's in NI?

[roadsteralex]

Not looking -right now- but at one stage I would like some stuff installed on my car.
So Already looking for VR6 GURU's and someone who can tune more than a "stage 1" flash map.

- GraviTuned power Intake
- 82mm Bosch TB to match
- Billet Fuel Rail on that intake
- Schrick Cams
- Haldex Replace?
- Stock to ARP Rod Bolts swap?
- Upgraded Motor mounts install (*need to find which ones first*)
- Performance Valve Springs (seen this on 12v forum, not sure if 24v needs this)
- Chain + Tensioner?

Anything else that -may- be needed

 

[GrantR]

This has @Tufty written all over it

 

[Darren91]

@pobmk4 Dubtech Ballymoney

 

[Ian A]

@natogreen16v bound to know.

 

[natogreen16v]

What are you trying to achieve with these mods?

 

[Rocko]

+3 hp.

 

[Ben P]

What are you trying to achieve with these mods?

 

[roadsteralex]

+3 hp.

@natogreen16v

US 2.9 Intake Manifold clone has done 30whp at 7k rpm (without a tune to it)
Tune, Intake, Sport Cats are proven 240whp, with 12% FWD Dyno loss should be around 268bhp.
And with the USA 2.9 intake manifold clone we -may- be looking around 300bhp NA already.


Now this intake manifold they are talking about is a clone, the one I am talking about is build up from scratch I would say, so maybe more.

268/264 cams has been proven to do 29bhp

So what I am seeing, with a good tune, maybe bigger TB is way above the 300bhp N/A mark with a possible upgraded valve springs is 7500-7800 RPM rev limit with power holding all through the RPM range.


Sure turbo is nicer with more power and all that

However , my first idea is most NA power possible.


The haldex change will make the system less FWD biached which means it will apply RWD pressure before the FWD starts slipping which isnt a power increase but its deffo an drivertrain increase.

Motor mounts will make make the engine tilt less, which will result in better performance.

You get the idea

 

[roadsteralex]

forgot to post pic of the intake manifold

 

[jayme]

Steven Gault has done RnD for some of the mainland specialists on the vr6 head. I would approach him. I know I have saw images of him with a vr6 mk2 on the dyno previously.

 

[natogreen16v]

2.9 Intake Manifold clone has done 30whp at 7k rpm (without a tune to it)
Tune, Intake, Sport Cats are proven 240whp, with 12% FWD Dyno loss should be around 268bhp.
And with the USA 2.9 intake manifold clone we -may- be looking around 300bhp NA already.

The 2.9 "clone" manifold is for a totally different engine. It's a clone of the 2.9 European Corrado intake which wasn't available in America hence why they're cloning it. It's nothing to do with your 3.2 and no 12v ever gained 30whp with it.

Also putting a short running intake on a VR will move your torque band way up the rev range. Usually into the territory they don't rev to. These engines don't like to rev crazy high without a lot of head and valve train work. I've went the Sri N/A route already to know this

 

[natogreen16v]

Your wasting your time with rod bolts. You'll never see the power N/A that'll be anywhere near the limit of stock bolts.

If you're seeing 29hp with the cams it'll be with supporting mods. You're not getting that dropping cams in.

More importantly, check the chains on VCDS or if there's a noise at all get them done. That's more important than any "proven" mods.

As a haldex owner I'll say you'll not overcome the haldex system with anything you're doing here so I don't see how it's a drive train improvement. Haldex already puts power to the back without the front wheels slipping based on various inputs.

From your previous posts get that you're into "doing something different" and won't be told otherwise but these engines have been tried and tested for 20+ years. There's a reason forced induction is popular with them. Otherwise you're gona spend a lot of money for **** all gains really.

 

[roadsteralex]

Your wasting your time with rod bolts. You'll never see the power N/A that'll be anywhere near the limit of stock bolts.

If you're seeing 29hp with the cams it'll be with supporting mods. You're not getting that dropping cams in.

More importantly, check the chains on VCDS or if there's a noise at all get them done. That's more important than any "proven" mods.

As a haldex owner I'll say you'll not overcome the haldex system with anything you're doing here so I don't see how it's a drive train improvement. Haldex already puts power to the back without the front wheels slipping based on various inputs.

From your previous posts get that you're into "doing something different" and won't be told otherwise but these engines have been tried and tested for 20+ years. There's a reason forced induction is popular with them. Otherwise you're gona spend a lot of money for **** all gains really.

You are making good points.
Thanks for the insight


Rod bolts was more in case I do go turbo together with a head spacer and I think they said 630cc injectors and TTRS low pressure fuel pump?

Unfortunately because I kinda blew 2 engines with turbo im trying to stay away form it unless I really have too

 

[natogreen16v]

I can guarantee you if you turbo it right, have it mapped properly and don't **** around with it it'll be trouble free for many years. These things are stout.

Or slap a supercharger on it and follow the same advice for something different than a turbo

 

[roadsteralex]

I can guarantee you if you turbo it right, have it mapped properly and don't **** around with it it'll be trouble free for many years. These things are stout.

Or slap a supercharger on it and follow the same advice for something different than a turbo

The main problem I think I would have with turbo is you can’t just full throttle in every gear like you would N/A.

However im willing to look into turbo
But most posts are very old , do you have any updated posts / part list?

 

[Boydie]

Are you a racing driver? The OEM power should be sufficient with some minor breathing mods, if not, sell it and get a TTS

Stage 1 power will bring it up to 320bhp, Stage 2+ up to 370bhp and will run for years, plus second hand parts now a day are relatively cheap and easy to come by - had this in my 8P S3 from 2009-14 and it was the most reliable tuned car I owned.

No issue full throttling my turbo car

 

[roadsteralex]

Are you a racing driver? The OEM power should be sufficient with some minor breathing mods, if not, sell it and get a TTS

Stage 1 power will bring it up to 320bhp, Stage 2+ up to 370bhp and will run for years, plus second hand parts now a day are relatively cheap and easy to come by - had this in my 8P S3 from 2009-14 and it was the most reliable tuned car I owned.

No issue full throttling my turbo car

TTS/RS doesnt sound like a VR6 whole reason why i got it

No i'm not a racing driver, but I'm coming from 450bhp at 1030kg MR2
I wanted DSG + Quattro as it seemed a better system
Almost bought a TTS but didnt want a 2.0-2.5 i4 either.

so VR6 it is, and I was planning to VR6 swap my MR2 anyway so this seemed a nicer step.

Heavier = More stable
VR6 + Quattro + DSG: Saves me 10.000+ as the DSG conversion was very very expensive.

Got the car for half that money.

But I guess I'll get a spare engine when the back yard doesnt look like a car scrap yard anymore and just buy a spare engine to get build with rods & Pistons


p.s. what i'm looking for:

0-60 under 4s (mid/low 3 if possible)
100-200kph around 8 i think?
60-100 around 4?
1/8mi: under 8 sec
1/4mi: 10.0 - 10.9

Stats above are just slightly above the TTRS with some tuning done to it

 

[Rocko]

0-60 under 4s (mid/low 3 if possible)

I hope you have hilariously deep pockets to take 3 seconds off the 0-60. I'm in.

 

[KevM]

It'd almost be as fast as a Tesla

 

[Boydie]

0-60 under 4s (mid/low 3 if possible)
100-200kph around 8 i think?
60-100 around 4?
1/8mi: under 8 sec
1/4mi: 10.0 - 10.9

Tuned TTRS' aren't consistently hitting 10s in the quarter mile (here anyway) and I have yet to break that barrier with a 11.1s QM at 127mph in my Stage 3+ S3 (480+ bhp) and with a 0-60mph in 3.1s

Can't mind the RMS user off the top of my head but he has a black tuned 8J TTRS and struggles to put down decent times.

I know how much it cost and time involved getting my car to where its at, just think its going to be a massive headache to do that to the TT.

I did a 9.91s QM @ 143mph in a tuned 991.2 991 Turbo S which was just insane and its seen low 9's before, incredible car but at the opposite end of the price scale

 

[roadsteralex]

View attachment 428036

I hope you have hilariously deep pockets to take 3 seconds off the 0-60. I'm in.

most likely looking turbo

At this stage what I have found from multiple builds:


R32 Turbo Forged Piston & Steel Con-Rods Set by Wiseco & BAR-TEK®: EUR 1800
GTuned Twin Scroll VR6 Turbo Manifold: £ 1600
HE351 Twin Scroll T3 Turbo: 600
2x TurboSmart Hypergate 45 wastegates (or GFB EX45): 600
(ARP Rod Bolts: 172 = Only needed for stock internals)
630cc Bosch EV12
TTRS LPFP (or
Billet Valve Cover: £ 1171 or VW V6 24V Valve Cover Breather Adapter Dash 10 Billet
Catch Can: 600
Sump with Return Bung
Oil Feed Line
S8/S6/S4 4.2 Mass air flow sensor coming from the turbocharger.Inner diameter is 82.78mm and part number is 077-133-471k
DW65V 265 lph PNP quattro Fuel pump

Additional Details:

later bearings for the FSI V6 engines aka “03H”
Specific ARP fasteners for the big ends were also acquired.
EGT sensor and boss was later added,
As the secondary air pump and hardware was removed, a SAI blank was required.
Holset turbo blanket


5372


Then Heat managment etc
This would be a 1000+ bhp engine by the way not 400-ish.

if you look here: Audi TT 3.2 Turbo Project
They used a cast manifold , single wastegate

"After our first settings and in the engine management system and a boost level of 0.6 bar our car performed excellent after the breaking in period of our new built engine."

474ps and 583nm is the first ever measurement of our new engine which maintains the stock 3.200 cubic capacity.Engine i running in very safe afr and boost levels and we will start raising the power once everything is 100% finished. In the meantime we are planning to upgrade our braking power by using the bolt-on TTRS 8J Calipers.


I just talked with them and they upped the boost to 1.5 - 1.8 BAR
But i'm not looking that much.. I prefer to stay under the 850nm of the upgraded DSG Clutch pack, So i'll be happy with 500 ish

Tuned TTRS' aren't consistently hitting 10s in the quarter mile (here anyway) and I have yet to break that barrier with a 11.1s QM at 127mph in my Stage 3+ S3 (480+ bhp) and with a 0-60mph in 3.1s

Can't mind the RMS user off the top of my head but he has a black tuned 8J TTRS and struggles to put down decent times.

I know how much it cost and time involved getting my car to where its at, just think its going to be a massive headache to do that to the TT.

Tbh If that isn't possible I would happily take the 3.1 0-60 and call it a day
However doesnt the VR6 produce a lot more torque which will help?

 

[Rocko]

I'm in, let's see 1000hp. Exciting.

 

[roadsteralex]

I'm in, let's see 1000hp. Exciting.

 

[Rocko]

Fantastic. Must have cost four fortunes though.

 

[roadsteralex]

Fantastic. Must have cost four fortunes though.

Deffo wont be cheap... but thats why I'm wondering as guys in canada running turbo with just head spacers.
Kinda debating what would be better, obv a full build but thats also a lot more