Ford 1.0 Ecoboost timing tools

[FM155]

Looking for timing tools (locking tools etc) for a 1.0 ecoboost. Got this apart to the point where I was going to see if it's possible to do without but looks pretty much impossible without various locking tools unfortunately.

The Sealey locking kit seems to be ~£700 which is not really an option and looking at cheaper knock-off copies are anything from £60 - £100 which would be ok but obviously delivery will be a delay on getting the job done. Anyone know local outfits that deal in stuff that's not 10 fortunes? I'm normally keen to use good quality tools but 700 quid for something that is in effect a copy of the ford tools is a bit wild.

Any other tips on timing and head replacement on these engines would be useful too.

 

[brendy7]

Colin Adams rent the tool out only thing is it doesn't come with the torque multiplayer for putting the crank pulley back on I'll be honest I didn't use it the last time I did a belt on one and it's worked out fine. The mean problem you'll have is holding the crank pulley in place it's not keyed and gets it crank signal form that so needs to be bang on

 

[FM155]

Appreciate that, probably a better idea renting with the price of the tools. This has a HGF and I'm in two minds whether to just pull it apart in case it's goosed. Cylinder 3 is full of coolant, plenty in the sump too which seems a bit much for just a HGF.

 

[brendy7]

If your doing the work yourself may aswell pull the head of it and get it tested chum nothing to lose now but your time

 

[FM155]

My thoughts exactly tbh.

 

[salster]

when you get the head off, take off the exhaust manifold, turn the head upside down and you should see a crack in the exhaust port. boy in England welds them. He has done over 300 ecoboom heads successfully and charges £250. Puma Sport does a new complete engine with a Ford 12-month warranty for £2500.

 

[FM155]

This is the older one with the exhaust manifold integrated into the head. There's one port for the turbo to bolt to.

 

[salster]

this one was a 2017 vintage and had the one center exhaust port.

 

[FM155]

when you get the head off, take off the exhaust manifold, turn the head upside down and you should see a crack in the exhaust port. boy in England welds them. He has done over 300 ecoboom heads successfully and charges £250. Puma Sport does a new complete engine with a Ford 12-month warranty for £2500.

Honestly I'll be happy if it's a crack that can be repaired, it's a 2016 Fiesta Mk7 Zetec S. I'll see what the situation is once I get the head off it. Thanks!

 

[FM155]

Got back onto this after a busy week, as predicted, looks like a crack in the exhaust port. Checked the face and it seems to be fine, I'll get it fully stripped tomorrow and rig up a pressure test to confirm if its cracked. Fantastic craic altogether lol.

EDIT: Bought the cheapy £60 locking and timing kit, seems to be dead on although one of the VVT locks wouldn't engage but I reckon I might have turned the crank backwards. I'll sort that out somehow when I'm putting it back together. Better than the £667 RRP for the Sealey kit.

 

[Coog]

I think you're secretly enjoying this

 

[FM155]

Sort of, yes, but I don't think I've ever removed as many M6 bolts in awkward places and getting the wiring loom off the engine was a bit of a mission. Now that it's apart, I can see a path to getting it sorted so just got to crack on with it.

 

[FM155]

Here at Pikey Cylinder Head Pressure Testing, only the most advanced methods are used.

 

[Coog]

That’s a class job

 

[FM155]

Petrol Injector Puller - Ford EcoBoost | VS2067 | Sealey

1 Year Guarantee - Extracts petrol injectors easily without damaging the injector or head. Suitable for Ford GDi & GTDi EcoBoost engines from 1.0L to 2.

www.sealey.co.uk

If anyone has one of these yokes down the back of their sofa, I'd be happy to hear from you. Ordered & paid for one on Monday, promised for yesterday but still no sign of it and starting to get 'feck off' vibes from the place that I ordered it from. Plastic bodied injectors that look like they'd shatter if forced in any way and a lack of access means they are needed I think. Balls.

 

[FM155]

Another busy work week unfortunately but managed to get down to get the head welded.


Back and rigged it up for another leak check. No bubbles

 

[salster]

the guy in england who welds them runs a few extra welds over the top and just smooths the welds off, says it is for extra strength as that is their weak point. looks good. without the torque multiplier i jammed the flywheel and tightened the crank bolt with a 3 ft bar,

 

[FM155]

Pretty much exactly what I got done today, it was dug out by around 8mm and then a few runs of weld before smoothing off. Going to lightly peen it a bit.
Got the crank bolt off with a 3ft bar and the flywheel locking tool, plan to do the same to put it back together. Haynes have a procedure without the torque multiplier, 300Nm and a 90 degree turn.

 

[FM155]

Another week, Another special tool lol. Two of the injectors had come out without their sealing seats so the initial thought was just to use a pick to get them out. Nope, no chance, the seats are a two piece stainless sandwich with stainless wire wool in the middle, at the bottom of a deep bore in an aluminium head. The seats were held in place by a ring of corroded aluminium due to the dissimilar metals. No amount of teasing and pulling with picks was touching it and I was also worried about damaging the sealing surface in the head. Went down to Wilson's and got an expanding internal mandrel head that would fit my small slide hammer.

Both the seats came apart and left the lower section in the head so lots more scraping and cleaning to have another go at the lower ring.

Bit of a handling tbh, but got there in the end.

Just got to lap in the valves and build the head back up to start getting it back together..

 

[fj1200aa]

Fook Fergus, wouldn't fancy paying Trust Ford the labour to do this - looks like nearly aspect of this job is footery. Or is it a case of that will be £x000 for an exchange short engine.

 

[FM155]

It's like a lot of things, knowing what I know now and having the right tools, I'd be able to do it much faster. Doesn't help that I'm fitting this in around work and other stuff too but should get there soon hopefully.

 

[FM155]

Anyone got a Gunson Ezi-lap or similar?
Inlets cleaned up beautifully as you'd expect but the exhaust valves are not playing ball. Doesn't help that the suckers I have aren't very good at sticking to the valve heads but something like an ezi-lap might get me away with this maybe. Not had any luck with local tool suppliers and I guess it's a niche thing these days.

Just in case someone has one lying around...?

https://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4095/Eezilap-Valve-Lapper

 

[althebass]

Don’t have one of those but I have shoved a bit of fuel hose onto the spring end of a valve then shoved a drill bit into the hose to drive it and done it that way.
A wee touch of WD-40 or similar helps the paste spread and stick IME too.

 

[FM155]

Was experimenting with various bits and pieces on the valve head but the sucker I'm using is cack and the valve is tiny so I'll give that a go in the morning.

 

[FM155]

Got a hose setup sorted this morning, 6 hours to do 6 valves. The exhaust valves are made from very hard material and were very difficult to get the seat faces cleaned up properly so just had to keep at it until they were right. Now drip drying off after a good thorough wash while I get my lunch. Yay and indeed, hay.