I've came to the conclusion....snowfoam doesn't work.
- Thread starter Eamo_vxr
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The foam on the ground doesn't look as thick as I would expect. If it fell straight off, you should have inches of foam sitting there.
In any case, it is a misconception that foam should stick for hours. This is what you want if you want neighbours coming over to talk to you. If that happens, you get a low active chemical concentration at the surface with little replenishing and limited transport of dirt away. A foam should break in a reasonable time such that the surface area has replenishing of the active ingredients and dirt is transported away.
Foams which are stable for hours are designed for show, not functionality. Moreover, as commented above, they cause nuisance.
In any case, it is a misconception that foam should stick for hours. This is what you want if you want neighbours coming over to talk to you. If that happens, you get a low active chemical concentration at the surface with little replenishing and limited transport of dirt away. A foam should break in a reasonable time such that the surface area has replenishing of the active ingredients and dirt is transported away.
Foams which are stable for hours are designed for show, not functionality. Moreover, as commented above, they cause nuisance.
Your car looks to be too well cleaned and waxed to benefit from it,
I find snowfoam works well on a car that has a weeks worth of dirt on it, besides for all it costs and the length time a jar lasts why not use it even if it is only slightly benefiting you?
I find snowfoam works well on a car that has a weeks worth of dirt on it, besides for all it costs and the length time a jar lasts why not use it even if it is only slightly benefiting you?
thomas_lad
RMS Regular
ive found that if you dont rinse the car with water first the foam works (and sticks) a lot better.
Coog
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Which is pretty much what was said back in the beginning. Well protected cars appear to benefit from it less. You'll also notice how well water clings to stinking paint vs nice clean paint. Aside from pictures of bright white foam with a spot of dirt in it we've yet to see any convincing evidence of water vs foam on a decently protected car. The 50/50's didn't show any significant difference.
I agree though - if you've the foam and a lance and the power washer out you might as well foam it, there's no harm in it.... or much benefit either lol
I agree though - if you've the foam and a lance and the power washer out you might as well foam it, there's no harm in it.... or much benefit either lol
There is also the important point that not all snowfoams are the same. Different foams will behave differently. If the foam falls off in lumps then it is not the fault of the wax, it is the fault of the foam. It should break down and stream down. It may be worth trying a different foam.
Think of it like this - you have a product which is being diluted 100:1 or similar, with water. Of course, there is a much bigger dilution occuring with air. So 1L of product would make 100L of liquid solution but the reality is that it is making more like 500L of foam. It is the foam which is in contact with the paint so you actually have more like a 500:1 active chemical content at the surface. The foam should break down and constantly replenish such that you have that low concentration refreshed over and over for a period of time. If you end up with piles of foam on the ground, most of your chemical is still stuck in the foam and hasnt actually done any cleaning. In actual fact, most foams which leave mountains on the ground will clean better if you dilute and apply with a pump sprayer - not as a foam. In this scenario, you are actually make use of the chemical activity, rather than just making foam on the ground.
But, as above, if the foam ends up on the ground almost immediately, that foam is just not wetting your paint. Yes, it is down to your LSP being hard to wet, but it is equally the fault of the product not having sufficient wetting power. So try something else.
(Incidentally the cleaning of surfaces like this is an interesting problem - hydrophobic surfaces may well be more inclined to staying clean, but they are notably harder to clean once the dirt is there!)
Think of it like this - you have a product which is being diluted 100:1 or similar, with water. Of course, there is a much bigger dilution occuring with air. So 1L of product would make 100L of liquid solution but the reality is that it is making more like 500L of foam. It is the foam which is in contact with the paint so you actually have more like a 500:1 active chemical content at the surface. The foam should break down and constantly replenish such that you have that low concentration refreshed over and over for a period of time. If you end up with piles of foam on the ground, most of your chemical is still stuck in the foam and hasnt actually done any cleaning. In actual fact, most foams which leave mountains on the ground will clean better if you dilute and apply with a pump sprayer - not as a foam. In this scenario, you are actually make use of the chemical activity, rather than just making foam on the ground.
But, as above, if the foam ends up on the ground almost immediately, that foam is just not wetting your paint. Yes, it is down to your LSP being hard to wet, but it is equally the fault of the product not having sufficient wetting power. So try something else.
(Incidentally the cleaning of surfaces like this is an interesting problem - hydrophobic surfaces may well be more inclined to staying clean, but they are notably harder to clean once the dirt is there!)
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