S- 2000 pieces

[svensktoppen]

That's a big change in direction, from track slag to full restoration!

As for the doors/boot/bonnet, I think you would be better off doing all of it at the same time if you are going to the bother of a full blast and paint.

Just to avoid any issues with colour matching, etc.

Likely easier for the body shop as well doing all of it in one go while they're at it.

 

[civicglacier]

Dash out!

And a wee beer

 

[civicglacier]

@svensktoppen
Yes a big change,. but the track slag want isn’t totally dead. I have another thought on that, and it’s hopefully going to happen in the background.

The blaster charges per shell so I can do it in bits, which suits. When he’s done it will be the full shell and rear quarters that are blasted and then repairs and paint.

The way I see it is when I get it running everything is going to need painted anyway so the rear 1/4rs could take another lick then.

I must admit I’m a total novice in all of this and do appreciate the comments and advice

 

[cormac81]

How you storing everything that's taken out? I'm miles off from where you are and I'm scared I wont be able to piece it all back together. Though there isn't much to a mk2 compared to a more modern car like this.

 

[civicglacier]

Lol. It’s everywhere @cormac81, Everything is in bags.
Bags everywhere and the garage is full of parts so when the shell is done it’ll be like drawing schematics from the bags of info.

Feel like I’m out of my depth, but we’ll get there

 

[cormac81]

Lol. It’s everywhere @cormac81, Everything is in bags.
Bags everywhere and the garage is full of parts so when the shell is done it’ll be like drawing schematics from the bags of info.

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Feel like I’m out of my depth, but we’ll get there

Yeap and it will all be worth it in the end.

 

[svensktoppen]

One of those things you do once, enjoy the experience, and then never again

It will be so worth it in the end, and knowing you worked through it yourself will make it that bit more special.

Expect surprises, get the right help if you hit a wall, take breaks from it every now and then, and don't get beat down by setbacks. There will be many

You'll get through it

 

[civicglacier]

Couldn’t have offered someone better advice than the above.
I’ve been at this on and off for about a year and a half and at times you ask “why did I even start this.”
Loads of setbacks and I’m sure more to come but there is a sense of achievement attached in each small win.

I’ll never do this again lol.

Would yous keep it the same colour?

 

[pablo]

Id go with a colour you love. you did all the work so you should enjoy the end result

 

[EF Ian]

Do as much as you can, you will regret it later if you don't.


Setbacks are a big part of a build like this, all worth it once compete though.

Have a good search around the net and if you see a colour you love them in pick that, nothing else matters.

 

[civicglacier]

For a novice,. The wire removal at the dash is a difficult enough task,

Get the steering column out first and then try the heater unit at the passenger side and white plastic unit in the middle of the dash.

Paper and string everywhere,.

Birthday yesterday also and my wife got me something I probably should have gotten ages ago..

I saw this the other day and thought it was a class colour and contrast.

Ruairi

 

[civicglacier]

Thumbnail was accidental

 

[chrisdromore]

Flip you are in deep there ! Fair play to you for taking it on. I fitted an aem intake to mine tues and was getting nervous disconnecting a few vacuum lines lol god knows what I’d be like with what your doing.

Blue looks well above.

 

[IL]

Maybe I missed it, but what’s the plans for turning it into a track car once it’s stripped?

Balls out, roof off and full cage etc?

Or suspension, brakes, wheels and light NA Tune and back together quite factory looking?

 

[civicglacier]

Those track plans have been revised slightly, solely due to how bare it got it, and the thought that it may be a class car to have perfect,. as a keeper.

Full shell will be blasted and painted,.then rebuilt, and then painted when it’s finished I’m thinking.

The track slag idea isn't yet dead,.
I’ve a spare engine ,gearbox/diff and all running gear so the aul fellas task is to design me a chassis and get it made to take it all.
That’ll keep us a few years yet

 

[IL]

Those track plans have been revised slightly, solely due to how bare it got it, and the thought that it may be a class car to have perfect,. as a keeper.

Full shell will be blasted and painted,.then rebuilt, and then painted when it’s finished I’m thinking.

The track slag idea isn't yet dead,.
I’ve a spare engine ,gearbox/diff and all running gear so the aul fellas task is to design me a chassis and get it made to take it all.
That’ll keep us a few years yet

Sweet, down the 7 style route?

That would be the way to do it!

 

[roverspeed]

Those track plans have been revised slightly, solely due to how bare it got it, and the thought that it may be a class car to have perfect,. as a keeper.

Full shell will be blasted and painted,.then rebuilt, and then painted when it’s finished I’m thinking.

The track slag idea isn't yet dead,.
I’ve a spare engine ,gearbox/diff and all running gear so the aul fellas task is to design me a chassis and get it made to take it all.
That’ll keep us a few years yet

I'm getting my mx5 back on the road but is gonna be a home brew respray however, I'm taking rust prevention very seriously as I want it on the road a long time from now with minimal care and still driving it through the winter (it's 28 this year)

I'm doing all the arch wells , subframes and suspension in por15 and cavity waxing the sills then redoing the under seal on the body itself..

Have you thought ahead to what long term corrosion protection you'll be doing?

 

[civicglacier]

Sounds like you’re covered if you’re going into all that,. If you intend on keeping it test the underside with a screwdriver and a bit of grease to make sure it’s solid.

I wouldn’t waxoyl a car ever again,. Just because I’ve had the pain of stripping it off and to see what it can cover.

I will just have it chip guarded after the repairs and then painted I think. I’m hoping that’ll keep it ok.

 

[svensktoppen]

That won't hold for anything other than occasional use on sunny days, and dry storage. Driving normally in bad weather, through winter, on motorways, etc., it's basically blasted underneath every time.

Just depends on use and all that, obviously. But if you go to all this trouble, now is the time to get a proper treatment underneath as well. You don't want to do it all again in a year or two...

 

[natogreen16v]

As @svensktoppen says you might as well paint it in emulsion for all the good it will do.

I'm redoing my MK3 this year including a full underbody resto. The current trend seems to be to use Upol Raptor truck bed liner. It's looks good and in theory it should work well as it's ridiculously tough but I want to speak to a few people who've ran it for some time.

When you're in that deep you won't want to be revisiting this. Might as well pay the extra and do it right

 

[roverspeed]

That's why I want to use the por15, according to all I read it dies rock hard.

The underneath has been treated when it was first imported (it's a jdm Eunos) there is one small patch that's gonna need cut out and welded. Arches and wings have surface rust only.

To be honest, the suspension and subframes are for looks more that protecting. But I think the arches are vital.

Its most fun in the rain and cold, couldn't face not taking it out.

It's garaged though, so I can rinse of the bottom and blast underneath with a leaf blower after winter runs

 

[mark19]

Epoxy mastic 121 on the bottom. Then cover that in upol gravteix then paint it.

Por 15 for all suspension and sub frames arc

That's what I did on my mk2. But that epoxy mastic is the stuff to use!

 

[svensktoppen]

Por15 is brilliant for chassis components, floors, etc.

Don't know about under sealing, never used it for that, but I see people do. Undersealing is all about getting into every little nook and cranny, every gap, every cavity, etc. You want something that "creeps" in and then stays there. Because water will no matter how many leaf blowers you throw at it.

 

[Neil_M]

@civicglacier I too would be in the POR15 camp. It really is the dogs bits when applied correctly. You can paint over it too. Should you want a specific colour.

Any box sections etc I'd suggest the Bilt Hamber product S50. Dynax S50 | High Protection Rust Proofing Cavity Wax - Bilt Hamber

It creeps and as @svensktoppen has said, that is what you need. Noting it is a dark brown, but in internal sections you can't see it's less of a concern.

I'll be doing the rear wheel wells on the Civic pretty soon with POR15. Though she's no show car, the arches could do with some more protection. I cracked the paint after rolling the arches too. Though for me, I'll just be applying POR15 over a cleaned and lightly prepped surface. It will be done with Silver POR15 and if its not a perfect match I don't mind and it will be left bare. It may actually add to chassis rigidity it dries that hard .

PS I also have the same overalls in light blue. Very handy for undersealing actually! Though I do find it's a little tight on the "two boys".

 

[civicglacier]

Good to get a bit of feedback on this.
I do not want a sticky waxy coating on the underside anywhere.

The epoxy mastic stuff, what’s the process for this. After blasting the shell it’ll need to be primed more or less immediately,. Does this stuff go over the top of the primer or chipguard and dry hard without any heat softening it?

Every days a school day and that