S- 2000 pieces

civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
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F10 / ATR / S2k
Thats great, must feel like a milestone has been reached.
Yea it was class to be honest.
Loads still to do but very satisfying to hear it alive again.

Tried to upload a video actually but it wouldn’t let me
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
In other news, we have a new addition.

My brother had been looking for a car for a bit and settled in this one.

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It’s a 2 owner car with 36k miles and most importantly no rust anywhere on it. Also it’s tight as a drum on the driving front with no unwanted whines or diff noises anywhere.

He’s delighted with it but after the drive home from Manchester he has to get it up on stands and wash all of the salt out of it before bilt hambering the underside.
 

civicglacier

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OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
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Car has taken a back seat for a while but the final order will be here this week and I can finally get this thing finished!!

Set myself 3-4 weeks from it arrives to have it driving and ready for either mot or paint.

Stablemate to keep me company and motivated.
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On a sadder note, being in the garage working isn’t the same without her. My trusty sidekick Sydney passed on Christmas Day,..not a dog in the country that knows more about s2000s than her! 😎

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civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
As much as I’m all for new parts and making it a mint example, I am not paying over a grand for new carpets.

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Taking tonight to thoroughly wash all the interior carpet trims.

When they’re dry I’ll then carpet clean them all and then wet vax them all.

The order coming this week is all the wee bits. All the grommets and stuff to make it weather sealed so have to get these ready.
Also going to sound proof the whole car before laying carpet.

Bought these the other day as quick as I could as they are now discontinued.

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£300 for bloody floor mats!!

Also planning to retrim the inside of the car. Nothing crazy but just something to lift the grey plastics to something more plush I think. Door cards (material and plastic), dash, plastic runners around the interior of the roof and centre console area.
 
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civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Today is a good day.

Finally got the parts opened up as I’ve been sick for a few days.

Can’t wait to get at this now to get it finished!

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I think that’s now more or less everything I need. I’m bound to have forgot something but this will push us on big time.
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Checked every part off and the most important one, a subframe bolt that I need to get it onto 4 wheels, I didn’t order. Clampet! Lol
 

EF Ian

RMS Regular
Messages
2,890
Location
Portrush
Drives
EF & 260Z GT-R
Happy days, thats a fair amount of parts there. Always nice to open them.

Easy to miss a part also when ordering that many.
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
I appreciate these posts aren’t the most exciting but I have to continue to keep a record of everything lol.

Car is now weather proof. All the grommets and bungs in, also all the receiver clips for stuff like the scuttle panel.

The interior and exterior panels are bogging but I’m going to clean the inside and when painting I’ll repaint the quarters and all again so that everything matches well.

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Also getting the pads in all the brakes tonight and callipers torqued down. Amayama sent me the wrong cages for the pads so I’ve had so use the old ones.

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Wrong cages here with no bevel to drop into the carriers.

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Recycled 🫣

Also got some of this stuff,

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Going to sound deaden and proof the interior and boot with this stuff. The s2000s come with the silver stuff in the likes of the inside of the tunnel but I’m also going to do the thin parts of the floor and boot, particularly above petrol tank etc. then put the foam over everything before I put the carpet in.

Plenty more boring work to come to get it exactly how I want it. 👌
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Thought I’d add another bit on stuff that shows the amateur from the knowledgeable.

Took the manifold back off to put the new gasket on and got all that and the heat shields back on without much fuss.

For anyone doing stuff like this be prepared to be frustrated beyond belief sometimes.

Me as a glipe never thought the 1mm of powdercoat each side of the carrier would raise the cage that wee bit too much and inhibit the pad from sliding where needed.

Now,..the brakes probably would have ground it back over time to flush but I had to strip them and grind back the bevelled bits so that everything cleared. Got that done and the fronts all in and torqued down.

Then to the rears and realised that the rubbers that the slider pins move
in and out of just weren’t seated right,.. again probably due to the 1mm of powdercoat.

So they had to come out too.



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You can see from the pictures that the powdercoat is right around the inside so it has to be ground too to have them seated properly.

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Proper example of how a novice gets caught out by lack of thought I guess lol.

You go out at the start of the evening with an ambitious list to get through,.. and you get schooled by the bits you thought you’d done right in the first instance.

#mot2030
 

svensktoppen

RMS Regular
Messages
32,800
Drives
FK2 CTR
Live and learn. Always keep paint away from mating surfaces. Even more important with suspension to seat bushes properly, wheels and hubs, etc.
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Live and learn. Always keep paint away from mating surfaces. Even more important with suspension to seat bushes properly, wheels and hubs, etc.
Yea I made sure all the suspension items were taped and clean but didn’t even thing of the likes of this. As you say, live and learn 👌
 

EF Ian

RMS Regular
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2,890
Location
Portrush
Drives
EF & 260Z GT-R
I'd have thought some of those areas should really have been masked off by the person doing the coating.

Personally not a fan of powdercoating on certain items, on other things its great.


Theres always something extra or an unexpected hassle with these things, they always take longer than expected.
 

civicglacier

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OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Bit more done this week.

New cage ball and spring in the shifter.

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Used LHTs advice of a cup of hot water for the plastic bits as the tend to break if you force them.

Shifter rebuilt and greased to the neck with the Honda urea grease. Fitting it was trickier than I thought, very fine tolerances and the new cage was tight as a ducks bum.

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I’ve lost count of the amount of times I’ve done things wrong and this next is another.

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Who would have thought the new insulator wouldn’t go in when you had the heater matrix and all in 😭.

Everything ripped out lol. Steering column and all the units.

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I’ll get the centre heater core out and then get the insulator in. Only plus side is that with the column out I’ve better access to get the pedals etc in and I can sound insulate the floor and tunnel really well on both sides with the units out and then whack everything back in.

After that it’s carpets and dash and getting it into 4 wheels out onto the drive.

I will spend an evening driving up and down the drive, not a door or panel in sight……with a few beer smiling.

Feel like I’m getting close. 💪👌
 

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civicglacier

RMS Regular
OP
civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
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Also forgot that as it had been started there’d be water in the unit 🥳.,, everywhere lol,..

Get the insulator In tonight and then pedals tomorrow night then fire all back together and do the sound panel work.
 
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svensktoppen

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32,800
Drives
FK2 CTR
Live and learn, all part of the fun 😇

At least you know how it all goes together by now 😅
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
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518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
That’s it. I’m enjoying it at the minute and I’m past setting deadlines so it’ll be done when it’s done.
 

civicglacier

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civicglacier
Messages
518
Drives
F10 / ATR / S2k
Bit more progress. I got the pedals in and connected. Took a bit longer than expected as I wanted the floating nuts over the washers as is standard and couldn’t find the originals.

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So it now looks like a car on the driver floor at least.

Putting the heater core/matrix all back in tonight also and everything connected back up. After that I’ll whack the dash in and do the insulation on the floor/ boot panels that need it.

Annoyingly, the rubbers that the slide pins go through for the rear callipers turned out to be the wrong size and that’s why they wouldn’t seat.

New set ordered and waiting on a final front subframe bolt (the weird ones where the bolt goes through a sheath/chamber with the nut on the end) and then go round and do a final torque and check on all of the nuts and bolts in both subframes.

I also got 4x40 gallon steel drums so I’ll be able to lower the lift down onto them hopefully to “clock” all of the bushings correctly.
Getting excited now, after the above just need to bleed the brakes and the clutch and the car should be fit to be driven out onto the drive.
 
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