1978 MGB GT

[Statler]

1st January 2019
With the dizzy rotation clamp loosened, it pulled out easily.

Cleaned up the block and set the old and new side by side to make sure they were the same. The new one slid in perfectly.

No need to remove the oil cooler line.

The new Viper coil came with its own mounting bracket and after a bit of paint on the inner wing it all went back together.

Biggest issue was getting a 12v supply to the new coil in order to bypass the ballast resistor wire built into the loom.

My digital multimeter decided to play sillybuggers giving all sorts of erroneous readings at 12v so it was back to a 12v probe tool to work it out from the ignition relay. An hour later the coil has ignition based switched power.

Topped it up with water/antifreeze mix to fill the new radiator and we’re ready to try starting it again. That’ll have to wait until the weekend now. I want to pull it out of the garage in daylight, just in case of fuel overflow from the carbs.

Old coil - no wonder it was having issues

 

[Statler]

3rd January 2018
Gave it a go this evening. Fired briefly, but wouldn’t run. Timing needs tweaked and judging by the pool of fuel on the floor, it may need a top up...

To be fair it was only a small amount and I’d only put a couple of litres in the tank back in September so fresh fuel and a bit of additive wont do any harm at the weekend.

Have to pack it in for a while, hospital beckons for a big operation.

 

[Statler]

12th February 2018
Feeling better after my op in January so had a look at the GT on Wednesday.

Set the static timing properly then switched on to see if the fuel pump would hold pressure or dump fuel on the floor... it held
Fired it up and mercifully it started, although running rough, and I coaxed it out of the garage to set the dynamic timing, which didn't seem to improve the idle. It also heated up remarkably quickly and soon had the fan running to cool it. Switched it off and had a gurgling from the heater hoses, which didn't seem right either.

Anyway, used the warm engine to do a compression test. I'd done a cold one earlier and numbers weren't bad for a 40 year old engine 1and 4 were at 120psi, 2,3 at 100 psi
Warm test showed No1,4 at 130psi, 3 at 120psi and 2 at 100 psi - hmmm. Squirted some oil in to check the rings, 1,3,4 were about the same, 2 came up 5psi.
Looks like the rings are ok, hunting around the internet, it seems the 2 and 3 are prone to exhaust valve seat wear due to the heat of the 3 branch manifold so I will need to do a compressed air test to check which valve is actually leaking. Then we may be looking at a head off / unleaded conversion.

I accidentally touched the top of the radiator and noticed that, in the 15 mins that had elapsed, it was cold. Eased the pressure cap off the catch tank and then opened the top of the thermostat housing - no water. I added more mix from the extra I'd made up and it took two litres so that may have been the problem.

In the process I noticed that the new silicone coil <> distributor lead was touching the oil filter so in an attempt to move it, I forgot that I hadn't tightened the adjuster nut and must have moved the distributor. I also didn't notice that I'd managed to cross leads 1 and 2 on when I put the plugs back in, which resulted in the engine running horribly when it started. It then cut out and refused to go again.

Panic set in at this point, I'd no idea what I'd done, so I walked away for a cuppa and the Haynes book....

Fresh head made me realise I'd twisted the distributor and crossed the leads. Having read the manual, I hadn't disconnected the vacuum advance line and so the timing was still way off. Once I'd sorted that out, she fired up and I set the dynamic timing, adjusted the idle speed and she ticked over quite sweetly. Phew...

Distributor bolt tightened, idle tweaked, temperature staying low, thermostat closed, I jumped in and had a couple of runs up and down the lane. Runs lovely, no hesitation, revs as expected. Left her to idle while I fired up the XF for the first time in a week.

Temperature rising toward normal, tickover still fine. Another quick run and then back into the garage.

So we have a runner. I'll not worry overly about No2 cylinder at the minute. Engine sounds a bit tappety so I'll re-check the valve clearances next and see if that makes any difference.

Have been researching wheels and tyres, thought about putting 15" MiniLites on but am now just going to refurbish the RO-Styles and put some new 14" tyres on. That should save enough to have the head sorted out when it needs it, and swap the horrible steering wheel for something more Moto-Lita.

Got some plastic front wheel arch liners still to fit and the brakes are as spongy as a spongy thing, despite being new.
Our Tesco delivery driver has a couple of classics including an old XJ. He has suggested a couple of methods for getting the air out of the system which will be the next job.

Started her up and pootled about the lane and yard this afternoon. The extra water has definitely helped. Running cool, idling properly.
Noticed a weep around the bottom radiator hose so will have to source a new jubilee clamp.

SU overhaul kit arrived, but now that I have it, it’s running ok!! It’ll keep until I need to pull the head.

Brakes are improving but the rears lock before the fronts. The rear friction material was in good shape and bedded in, whereas the discs and pads are new. Still need to re-bleed the front.

Now that the mechanicals are satisfactory, I started cleaning the inside. Carpets were new 20-odd years ago and still look good. The headlining and pillar trims are grubby but a quick clean shows that the grey is just old and faded.
I need to work out whether a re-trim kit at around £120 is better than painting the existing trim with a specialist vinyl paint. Cost would probably be much the same. Either way the headlining has to come out.

Also need to budget for a seat cover kit. A decent black vinyl kit is around £120 for the GT, plus seat foams and webbing. Need to get rid of the horrible, stained, grey stripe velour...!

Thanks be to the Gods of motoring, we may get to MOT before Easter!

 

[Statler]

26th February
Have decided to stick with the steel wheels.
Took them off the MG yesterday as I’ve finally found a place that can balance the RO-style wheels on the studs. Wells Tyres in Bangor.
They are not hub centric wheels so finding a guy with an adapter has been a challenge. Fortunately they are 5 miles from me so heading there today to get the old tyres removed and the wheels checked for balance. If they’re ok then I’ll drop them off to be blasted and powder coated in a nice bright silver.

Discovered that the rubber boots on the new track rod ends have split despite the car barely moving. Have contacted the seller and he’ll replace them. Just need to get them off ...

I asked the supplier if he’d had many returned and said “a few”. Maybe time he changed his supplier as he claims most of his parts come from MOSS....

It’ll cost me more in diesel and time to return them than to order two new ones from MGB Hive with some other parts I need.

Wheels ran fairly true on the balancer so have been dropped off for powder coating in bright silver (IC Power Coating, Killaughy Road). I’ll have to do the black bits and unfortunately can’t get a 14” mask from any of the MG suppliers. Tape masking it’ll have to be.

Tyres next then. Going from 165R14 to 175/70R14. Slightly less of a sidewall so will look more modern on the ROstyles. No real knock on, possibly 3mph less at 70mph. I doubt that’ll be a problem given that the Speedo is probably very inaccurate anyway.

MOT is next. It may fail on the state of suspension bushes, some visible cracks in the rubber but no movement as far as I can see. If it does fail then I’ll overhaul front an rear bushes and drop it an inch

 

[Statler]

1st March 2019
Wheels back from the powder coating place
Front

Side

Rear

Masking them is a complete PITA. Nobody in the UK has the 14” painting mask in stock.
MGB036/037/038

One down, three to go.

Gloss black centres before tyres fitted next week.

 

[Statler]

2nd March 2018
The Pro-dec tape has a waxy top layer and a sharp edge so withstands paint well.

I did find some on one of the windows about a month after the outside of the house was painted and was still sticking pretty good!

Have given up trying to bend the 6mm blue tape and have made two plastic templates for the curvy bits. Tape over them, trim the tape with a sharp knife, peel off an stick to the wheel.

Damn cold here today so will bring them into the house overnight and let the underfloor heating bake them. Should help to soften the adhesive on the tape too

 

[Statler]

6th March 2019
I probably could Dave. Not sure how cellulose would stand up to a clear coat and heat though.

As it is, I pulled the masking this morning and to say I was disappointed is an understatement. The blue 6mm “body shop” tape allowed the paint to creep and they looked a mess.

The Prodec tape actually worked really well in the tricky bits.

I couldn’t even bring myself to take a picture.....

Anyhoo, thankfully powder paint is impervious to cellulose thinner so I spent two hours cleaning off the overspill and spider webs to get them to an acceptable standard.

I had a read at a couple of old MG blogs over lunch and the owners had similar problems. One had a disaster with the official ROstyle painting mask as well, so I’m not alone.

Here’s the result, just don’t look too closely. ....

The black hasn’t come up really glossy which is ok as it looks more period. I think they used a satin black originally

I’ll let them harden off until Friday and get the tyres on.

 

[Statler]

7th March 2019
Tyres are on. £45+VAT fitted and balanced. The guys were able to balance them with stick on weights so no horrible hammer on weights on the outside

Toyo NanoEnergy 3 at 175/70x14

No damage from the tyre fitters.

Next up is insurance. Thinking of an agreed value policy but not sure how to work out the value...

 

[Statler]

8th March 2019
Looking into insurance.
After a recommendation and nearly jumping to Classic Line, the reviews put me off, along with the admin fees for changes.
Footman James were around £125, but didn't include breakdown.

So, the car is insured with Hagerty for £140 with no admin fees for changes and they are happy with my current and upcoming modifications (electronic ignition and suspension changes in due course.)
The guy I spoke to is a petrolhead and tells me they mostly all are. Agreed value of £4600 with no proof or photos and if I upgrade the paint at any stage we can increase that pro-rata.
3000 miles a year with commuting. Breakdown cover included.
Seems like a decent policy and the online reviews are good.

Whilst digging out the log book, (as I have to register the car in my name to insure it), I found a bunch of pictures from 1995, just after the body restoration.

The young man in the last picture is my Father in Law, he never got to drive the car on the road as his left hip gave out soon after this.
He had a run around the house in it the other week, so hopefully we'll get to do a decent run out in it in the near future. He's 83 now

 

[Statler]

13th March 2019
Started the fight with the DVA to get the car registered in my name. I don’t have the most recent V5 so I’ve been told to fill in change of keeper section and send it off.
The car has no real history with DVA as it transferred to NI then back to Swansea in 2014. The NI record was lost in the transfer so who knows what will happen...

Allan came over this morning and changed the tie rod balljoints for me.

Insurance is bought and starts on 18th March.

MOT is booked for 19:55 on 10th April. Earliest appointment I could get but it gives a proper target now.

 

[Statler]

3rd April 2019
Time for an update then.

Finally got sorted with DVLA, after two weeks of trying, it's now showing up as SORN'd on their systems. I have received yet another V5C as they didn't get the address correct the first two tries...

Found and fitted the front wheel arch splash plates with their seals. They needed a coat of paint but since they won't now be exposed to the road grime thanks to the plastic wheel arch liners I got from MOSS, a double coat of black was enough. These should protect the arches, wings and headlamps from water and road dirt.

Bought some new wheel centre caps and a set of 6mm spacers to fill the arches a bit more. There is plenty of length on the studs for these. Any thicker would have requires longer studs.

As mentioned before, Allan and I replaced the new, but failed steering balljoints a few weeks back. I was fitting the wheels and testing the new 6mm spacers when I discovered movement on the drivers side wheel. I though it was the bearing so bought a set of bearing shims and repacked it. Unfortunately vertical play was still evident, so I checked the other side and it had more play. The lower trunnion bushes on the kin pins are shot and will definitely fail the MOT, so another trip to the local MG Specialist and more money...

I have the replace the whole stub axle OR refurbish my own. Having watched a few Youtube videos, I just don't have the equipment to do this myself, so the local guy can get me a refurbished set on an exchange basis.
He's also suggested changing bushes and replacing the the lower suspension arms as the outer holes tend to elongate and can lead to further problems. Since I'm that far in I'll replace the rear suspension arm bushes for single piece V8 ones. They're much sturdier and a direct fit. Basically a full overhaul of the front suspension now.

The other issue, mentioned elsewhere is that while working at it, I've started it a few times just to keep the battery happy and the last time resulted ina pool of fuel on the floor from the front carburettor. I suspect the needle valve is either worn or has dirt stuck in it. It was fine for a while and maybe a run out and a bit of jiggling will sort it but I have a service kit for the carbs, so I'll just pull them off and do that too.

I went to check the seat belts and discovered we'd never refitted the floor mounted catches, so after a bit of digging around in the other garages I found a box of bits and thankfully they were in there. A quick check under the carpets at the back of the tunnel and I found the mountings. half an hour later working seatbelts.

I also found that full beam on the passenger side wasn't working. Pulled the headlamp and the bulb tested OK. It looked like I was getting 12v at the full beam pin, but the bulb wouldn't light up. A quick check of the wiring diagram showed that the feed comes from the driver side and it dawned on me that perhaps my poking about to get an indicator light working on that side had disturbed something, and I was right. A bit of emery, some contact fluid and a bit of wiggling the lamp was working again.
Old electrics can be a pig. I did find and buy some new single and twin bullet housings from MGB Hive. Good to have as it's damn near impossible to get inside the original ones to clean them.

I am missing a high note horn and the low note is working intermittently on the bench so I've ordered a 'new' Lucas pair off Ebay.

The washer fluid bag got a clean out and a bit of a bleaching which revealed a lovely big plug of mastic on the lower edge. I'll get a new one at some stage, for now, it's holding water.

One major problem I found was a gaping hole on the inside lip of the driver's side rear wheel arch. About 3" in diameter, it looks like our bodywork guy just ignored it when replacing the dogleg all those years ago.
I'm ashamed to say it, but since the MOT was looming, and before I discovered the King Pin issue, I filled it with ISOPON and painted it black. Time didn't permit getting a proper welding job done on it. At that, any welding will affect the paintwork on the outside of the wheel arch and lead to proper painting, which I'm just not in a position to be able to justify right now.

I did have another go at the paintwork on the roof and bonnet again with some Megs Glaze and the DAS polisher with a soft pad. It's come up well. Still quite a lot of scratches on the better bits. I can't work out if he just wet sanded it with a brick or if these scratches are actually sanding marks in the primer and are just showing through the top coat... so they'll never come out.

I have been cleaning out the vent just under the windscreen as well. Bought an new shiny chrome grille with a stainless mesh to prevent big stuff getting in. Also located the drain and cleared that out too.

 

[Statler]

Talking of shiny bits. I had been looking for a new steering wheel to replace the ugly, 4-spoke, rubber one. A friend sent me a Momo Abarth three spoke wheel that he had stored away for his Mini. Unfortunately the boss was for a pre-'75 GT (and also Mini). Looking on the Interwebs a boss kit was the wrong side of £75 so that was put to one side.
While looking for the seatbelt catches, I came across my old Mountney black three spoke leather wheel in the boot of the Midget.
It was in ok condition, just the paint peeling off the spokes. I thought I'd be able to repaint it and began stripping the black off. Under that, I found it was aluminium, so I reverted to Nitromors paint stripper to avoid damaging it, then buffed the aluminium with a series of fine paper, pastes, down to Megs glaze and it's come up a treat.
The leather got cleaned and treated to a couple of coats of Gliptone colour repair and then a few coats of Gliptone leather protector. It came up well.
I got a brand new Mountney boss for £22 as the one on it was for my '85 Metro.
It's an '87 vintage wheel that I had on my Metro many years ago. Nice to be able to press it into use again.

Anyway, time to postpone the MOT appointment.... Pushed it back to the 4th May for now to give me some time to get everything fitted.

On the money side, I've just added the last batch of purchases to my costings spreadsheet... I wish I hadn't, lol.

 

[Statler]

5th April 2019
Collected the new front stub axles yesterday.
On advice from Laurence at Just MGs, I've got new bottom arms, v8 bushes and new pins and bolts.

It all looks a bit ropey on the car, so I've doused it with penetrating fluid and after digging around the Interwebs, Gumtree threw this up in my home town

£35 and it's barely been used. Should help with the dismantling!

 

[Statler]

7th April 2019
After a lot a ball ache over the last two days the front suspension is finally stripped bare.
The top trunnion pins were stuck solid but after a couple of hours and a lot of persuasion from Lumpy McLumphammer and my Mole Grips they came out.
The passenger side antirollbar drop link bolt refused to shift so it succumbed to the grinder.

I now need yet more parts..... I hope the spring pans pass muster with the MG guy tomorrow to save a little money.
The inner bushes looked bad but actually were OK. The upper trunnion bushes were in reasonable condition too.

It looks a little bare

At least the good bit can begin now. The rebuild with new parts

 

[Statler]

10th May 2019
This has been a long month trying to get the parts together for the front suspension, finding time to do a little bit as I can. Painting the crossmember and dampers, each of which has required two coats of black Smoothrite due to their rusty surfaces. It all adds up to time.

A couple of runs up to Just MGs and a few parcels from MOSS Europe and MGB Hive to get the many pins, bolts, washers, seals, bearings that are required for a 'wee' job like this.

I had previously done the discs with Allan, but one of the bearings was grumbly.
The stub axles came off and suitable reconditioned units were purchased, along with new suspension arms, V8 rear bushes, upper and lower trunnion bushes and pins, in fact, the only thing I didn't change were the spring pans. These were in good enough condition to sand and re-paint.

So, I started with the bump stops

Then had to put a new bush into the end of the anti-roll bar, what a ball ache that was. I ended up removing the bar and pushing the bush in with the bench vice. In the process I broke the head of one of the retaining bolts and despite acquiring a stud extractor tool, it was jammed solid and I ended up drilling it out and using an M8 tap to re-thread it for a metric bolt. That took the better part of two days....

Rear suspension supports were next on.

Then the arms and spring pans, loose.

The the stub axle

At this point I tightened up the spring pans bolts to discover that cheap, metric bolts that are not of the right quality strip easily when torqued... Strip it all down again and drill the stripped bolt out FFS.
Onto MGB Hive for the correct bolts, washers and nuts.

While waiting, I changed both of the steering boots as one was torn.

Passenger side went well, last torque was the upper trunnion bolt, which I mis-read at 60ft/lbs and stripped yet another thread. I used the other one and set it correctly at 40 ft/lbs, then next gap for the split pin.

 

[Statler]

Repeated all this for the driver side, but used a cleaned up old top bolt until a new one arrived.

Next up, wheel bearings changed and hubs back on. Properly shimmed dry then greased and torqued to 60 ft/lb as required.

In the meantime, I pushed the MOT back again, to the 8th June.

Wheels went back on and she touched the floor for the first time in ages.

 

[Statler]

12th May 2019
I'm at a bit of a pause now, that was a big job.

I know the carbs need overhauled, but my mechanic suggested running the car over to him for a quick gas analysis before I start on them.
Gives me a chance to bed the front pads in pre-MOT too. Might have to go over to him a few times...


24th May 2019
Last night I decided it was high time to check the carbs are balanced and the mixture is OK.
Thanks to Mr Gunson, eldest son and I dug out the nice new Carb Balancer and ColourTune.
The filters were already off the MG, so we dug it out of the garage and fired it up. Let it idle until it warmed through, while we got ready to do the adjustments.

It heated up quickly, the fan came on and cooled it, phew, no overheating, all pipes and tubes watertight.
We left it to run through 3 or 4 cooling cycles just to make sure and it's grand.

Next, we slacked off the throttle linkage and set the Carb Balancer to a known level on the front carb.

It's a very simple thing, a little plastic poppet slides up and down inside the plastic gauge, however the injection moulding process had left a bit of excess plastic on the poppet, which needed trimmed off to allow it free movement. A fiddly little job.

Checking the rear carb, it was drawing too much air so we slacked the throttle setting back to match the front and tightened the linkage.

Next, onto the ColourTune and we found it was running quite rich, nice yellow/orange flame in the combustion chamber.
Gunson suggest a blue colour for the flame, but since it's still a leaded head, I decided to make it 'mostly' blue to leave it a little rich to prevent any valve damage. I used the inspection plug on cylinders 2 and 3 to get each carb the same.

Car is idling a bit better, pulls well when driven. We pootled it around the house and up/down the lane a few times until the fuel ran out....

Brakes seem to have perked up a bit with the calipers having been lying on their sides while the suspension was rebuilt. The pedal is still long but firmer and we can lock the front brakes on the stone drive. I don't think I'll bleed the brakes just yet.

I've to run the car over to my mechanic next week to put it on the Gas Tester and just to make doubly sure it's ok for MOT on 8th June. Hopefully that will help bed the pads in a bit more.

 

[Statler]

24th May 2019
Last night I decided it was high time to check the carbs are balanced and the mixture is OK.
Thanks to Mr Gunson, eldest son and I dug out the nice new Carb Balancer and ColourTune.
The filters were already off the MG, so we dug it out of the garage and fired it up. Let it idle until it warmed through, while we got ready to do the adjustments.

It heated up quickly, the fan came on and cooled it, phew, no overheating, all pipes and tubes watertight.
We left it to run through 3 or 4 cooling cycles just to make sure and it's grand.

Next, we slacked off the throttle linkage and set the Carb Balancer to a known level on the front carb.

It's a very simple thing, a little plastic poppet slides up and down inside the plastic gauge, however the injection moulding process had left a bit of excess plastic on the poppet, which needed trimmed off to allow it free movement. A fiddly little job.

Checking the rear carb, it was drawing too much air so we slacked the throttle setting back to match the front and tightened the linkage.

Next, onto the ColourTune and we found it was running quite rich, nice yellow/orange flame in the combustion chamber.
Gunson suggest a blue colour for the flame, but since it's still a leaded head, I decided to make it 'mostly' blue to leave it a little rich to prevent any valve damage. I used the inspection plug on cylinders 2 and 3 to get each carb the same.

Car is idling a bit better, pulls well when driven. We pootled it around the house and up/down the lane a few times until the fuel ran out....

Brakes seem to have perked up a bit with the calipers having been lying on their sides while the suspension was rebuilt. The pedal is still long but firmer and we can lock the front brakes on the stone drive. I don't think I'll bleed the brakes just yet.

I've to run the car over to my mechanic next week to put it on the Gas Tester and just to make doubly sure it's ok for MOT on 8th June. Hopefully that will help bed the pads in a bit more.

 

[Statler]

27th May 2019
Air filters back on for the first time in months. Got the new heater grille on, polished a bit of chrome, not that you'd see a difference in it, lol

I decided it would be a good idea to tidy up the rear number plate mount and lamps.... big mistake.
I managed to get it off the car OK, but then shared the mounting stud off one of the light units. The same light unit had a rusty crosshead screw holding the cover on and that stripped itself as I tried to undo it, so that led to two hours of dremelling a new slot in the screw head in order to get a decent flat blade into it, and with it being so rusty, a load of penetrating fluid around it to try and get it out.
Thankfully it did come out eventually and I replaced the cover screw on bout units with shiny self tappers.

The sheared mounting stud drilled out ok and a new stud was made from a countersunk M4 bolt, which I cleaned up and soldered into place, cutting off the excess.

The bulb holders were rusty, so in order to get a decent electrical connection, I dremelled these back to clean metal and applied a squirt of contact cleaner to each holder and tested OK on a 12v PSU I have on the bench.

Now I could concentrate on the mount plate, wire wheel on the grinder to start with and then the sander. A few bashes in the right place with a hammer to flatten out the bumps, followed by two coats of high build grey primer, two coats of satin black and good coat of gloss lacquer.

Looks much better

And all back together

 

[Statler]

4th June 2019
Over the weekend, I made a bracket to hold the spare wheel in place, aligned the washer nozzles, fixed the battery in place and went through the MOT test checks.

Had a big day yesterday, took Sid out on the road for the first time. He was a shirty bugger when cold and felt a bit reluctant, but once he warmed up, we were shooting along quite nicely.

Didn't overheat, fan working well. Brakes aren't bad, could do with being a bit firmer, but stop progressively and square, no pulling. Handbrake needs tightened up a bit.


Ran her over to my mechanic about 4 miles away and he stuck the emissions probe up her tailpipe producing a 0.05% CO and and 1146 HC at idle.
Test requires max 4.5% CO and 1200ppm HC for a pass. Not sure if upping the mixture will bring the HC down or not.

My mech reckoned he was running a little lean, based on the CO result but the plugs are a light brown colour after the run, which I believe is a decent burn.
Sid was a little reluctant to start from hot, and idle properly, so perhaps the mix is a bit weak.

Tappets need checked again, as does the timing.

Being used to wafting in the XF, it was a noisy, squeaky ride, but no major issues to report and I got back home again OK. Did see 60mph on the speedo at one point, it pulls really well and sounds great.
Gear change is a little odd, as the stick rests between 1/2 instead of the 3/4 norm of modern cars.

Got some new wiper blades this morning. Fit those, and the couple of adjustments above and that's it, we're ready for MOT on Saturday!

 

[Statler]

8th June 2019
Well, we studied hard and this morning passed the MOT.

Emissions were a little high but I had been sitting idling for 20 mins, as per their advice.

Straight round to the Post Office for a swap to Historic Class and a years Tax in place.

This young man is very happy

Took him for the first run out in 25 years, loved it.

Then got pinged by the Tax Check Van so will probably get a letter....

All in a days work, lol

Time to enjoy it now

 

[Statler]

First commute into Belfast this morning, MG ran well.
Took it out for a quick photo or two at lunchtime.

 

[mayweather]

First commute into Belfast this morning, MG ran well.
Took it out for a quick photo or two at lunchtime.

View attachment 241702

Very very cool, love these cars!

 

[Statler]

Very very cool, love these cars!

Thanks, gradually getting to know the noises it makes aren’t sinister
It makes a lot of noises!!

 

[miniator]

Thanks, gradually getting to know the noises it makes aren’t sinister
It makes a lot of noises!!

standard classic car driving for you, youll also notice smells more too hahaha

enjoy, love these motors