First bike - SV650s
- Thread starter w.reid306
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hannakournikova
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great bike.
Slick front tyre? lol
Slick front tyre? lol
Lappintyre
RMS Regular
Nice looking bike, great colour! HTR
Nice bike, SV650S was my first bike aswell, good first bike to have. Mine was the older carbed one though, I loved it, the sound it made after fittings a filter upgrade and exhaust system was awesome, so loud though.
Enjoy it and be safe.
Enjoy it and be safe.
fabiostar
RMS Regular
lovely looking sv sir. HTR.
BobSpounge
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I had a K4 in candy blue as my first bike. They are a fantastic all rounder and that v twin noise is lovely.
warren
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Was my first bike aswell, kept it for 5.5 years and never got bored of it 
Bike is owned by my dad now, regular services every 4k miles, bike has 43k on it now and its still perfect
People see the wheel stripes as chavvy sometimes, but id say some red or blue ones would look at the part on that. But looks clean, and im sure youll enjoy it
Bike is owned by my dad now, regular services every 4k miles, bike has 43k on it now and its still perfect
People see the wheel stripes as chavvy sometimes, but id say some red or blue ones would look at the part on that. But looks clean, and im sure youll enjoy it
warren
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Ah, mine had silver wheels so it looked proper bland without them. Mine was the Burnt Copper colour so it had matching orange ones!
Dont take this as 100% fact to the book but I did mine
Oil - Every 4k, about £27 for 4L of Silkoline Super
Oil Filter - Every 8k, less than £10 usually
Plugs - Every 8k, about £7-9 each
Air filter - Every 8k, but bought K&N so that just needs cleaned.
Valve Clearances - Every 15k, About £100 if not needing adjustment.
Cant speak highly enough of the scottoiler either, a chain might last you 15k miles if looked after very well, current chain on the bike since the oiler went on is at 14k and its been adjusted once.
Have had to change the front caliper piston seals twice too.
Other than that, I rode the bike about 34k miles in 5 years and it was perfect. Including 5 winters, it does not effect if you wash it regularly.
Fork paint can bubble and come off at top and bottom, and the paint at the back of the rear footpeg mounts, but other than that its perfect.
Also if your going touring on it these engines will use a bit of oil sitting at 70mph, 5-6k rpm for hundreds of miles each day. I took mine to Barcelona and back and had to top it up a bit when I was home, still above low level but just something to look out for!
You will love it Even with the R6 now I still miss the noise.
Dont take this as 100% fact to the book but I did mine
Oil - Every 4k, about £27 for 4L of Silkoline Super
Oil Filter - Every 8k, less than £10 usually
Plugs - Every 8k, about £7-9 each
Air filter - Every 8k, but bought K&N so that just needs cleaned.
Valve Clearances - Every 15k, About £100 if not needing adjustment.
Cant speak highly enough of the scottoiler either, a chain might last you 15k miles if looked after very well, current chain on the bike since the oiler went on is at 14k and its been adjusted once.
Have had to change the front caliper piston seals twice too.
Other than that, I rode the bike about 34k miles in 5 years and it was perfect. Including 5 winters, it does not effect if you wash it regularly.
Fork paint can bubble and come off at top and bottom, and the paint at the back of the rear footpeg mounts, but other than that its perfect.
Also if your going touring on it these engines will use a bit of oil sitting at 70mph, 5-6k rpm for hundreds of miles each day. I took mine to Barcelona and back and had to top it up a bit when I was home, still above low level but just something to look out for!
You will love it
Even with the R6 now I still miss the noise.w.reid306
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- #21
cheers for the rough guides, def helpful
any decent online guides to servicing? or is it worth investing in a haynes manual
is adjusting the chain easy enough to do? when you say 'looked after well' how often would you oil it?
ill keep an eye on those areas for paintwork, dare say if i keep em clean and well waxed etc the paint shouldnt crack id say!
any decent online guides to servicing? or is it worth investing in a haynes manual
is adjusting the chain easy enough to do? when you say 'looked after well' how often would you oil it?
ill keep an eye on those areas for paintwork, dare say if i keep em clean and well waxed etc the paint shouldnt crack id say!
warren
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Servicing is very easy, mine was half faired though so you might need to take some plastics off.
-Oil sump plug very easy to get to, its off to one side though so do it on the sidestand.
-Oil filter is way out the front, couldnt be easier, just need the right removal tool/screwdriver+hammer
-Air filter, lift tank, unscrew airbox lid, change
-Plugs are probably the hardest part, the rear cylinder is easy enough, can get at from under the tank. Front one though, the radiator has a bolt underneath it that needs removed which will allow it to swing forwards, I cut myself a little block of wood the appropriate size to wedge between it and the engine to hold it forward, then just wrestle the tools in, being careful not to damage any of the radiator fins.
I do have a haynes manual, but its not neede for servicing really, its very easy.
The chain is very easy to adjust, the only problem is the markers that are round the spindle, your supposed to match them up on each side of the swingarm to make sure the wheel is straight, but one of mine could move back and forwards a few mm which wasnt too useful.... lol. But yeah if your doing it on a paddock stand leave the chain slightly looser than intended as when you sit on it it will tighten slightly.
In terms of looking after the chain I would give it a complete rub down and re-grease every couple hundred miles, think the book says 600, but the scottoiler is the best thing for the job here if you intend to to big miles it really is.
-Oil sump plug very easy to get to, its off to one side though so do it on the sidestand.
-Oil filter is way out the front, couldnt be easier, just need the right removal tool/screwdriver+hammer
-Air filter, lift tank, unscrew airbox lid, change
-Plugs are probably the hardest part, the rear cylinder is easy enough, can get at from under the tank. Front one though, the radiator has a bolt underneath it that needs removed which will allow it to swing forwards, I cut myself a little block of wood the appropriate size to wedge between it and the engine to hold it forward, then just wrestle the tools in, being careful not to damage any of the radiator fins.
I do have a haynes manual, but its not neede for servicing really, its very easy.
The chain is very easy to adjust, the only problem is the markers that are round the spindle, your supposed to match them up on each side of the swingarm to make sure the wheel is straight, but one of mine could move back and forwards a few mm which wasnt too useful.... lol. But yeah if your doing it on a paddock stand leave the chain slightly looser than intended as when you sit on it it will tighten slightly.
In terms of looking after the chain I would give it a complete rub down and re-grease every couple hundred miles, think the book says 600, but the scottoiler is the best thing for the job here if you intend to to big miles it really is.
w.reid306
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- #23
may have a wee go at this later, wud be interesting to see condition of air filter as the service history says it had full service a month or 2 ago, was the k&n u had just a panel filter?
when i ordered my helmet and jacket etc i got given wd40 chain grease and oil as like a tester freebie, so ill give that a go first! Is the scottoiler your talkin about the actual oiler kit or jus the spray can?
when i ordered my helmet and jacket etc i got given wd40 chain grease and oil as like a tester freebie, so ill give that a go first! Is the scottoiler your talkin about the actual oiler kit or jus the spray can?
warren
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The only catch with lifting the tank.....is you need to take off the wee plastic side pannels (below seat) and the seat itself so the tank can swing up. Then you get a "Bonnet catch" type job with it usually, its just a metal pole with a few wee notches in it, that you stick between the tank and the big bolt ontop of the yoke. (When the bike was new it was connected to the giant ass rear mudguard under the seat)
Ive just noticed you have a tail tidy on the bike too, I have never seen one of these that has a seal under the seat, so whatever is in the underseat storage will get wet.
If its Chain grease by the brand "WD40" thats ok so long as its not the normal WD40 as this isnt for chains lol. The oiler I had is this
http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/vsystem/vsystem.html
Really couldnt reccomend it enough, id have one for the R6 but its literally just a toy, probably only does about 200 miles a month so its not really worth it!
Ive just noticed you have a tail tidy on the bike too, I have never seen one of these that has a seal under the seat, so whatever is in the underseat storage will get wet.
If its Chain grease by the brand "WD40" thats ok so long as its not the normal WD40 as this isnt for chains lol. The oiler I had is this
http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/vsystem/vsystem.html
Really couldnt reccomend it enough, id have one for the R6 but its literally just a toy, probably only does about 200 miles a month so its not really worth it!
w.reid306
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- #25
actually had the rear compartment opened up the other night and tidied up all the wires etc (led lights came with alot of wires lol) and put the seat on instead of the blank panel (as u can see was on in first 2 pics) dont think ill be keepin anything in it tbh! Did notice a wee rod, about a foot long, had a notch on one end and a loop at the other, is that the 'bonnet catch' thing you mentioned for the tank?
yea its chain grease by brand wd40
yea its chain grease by brand wd40
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