I’m sure it’s been checked but have the earth points all been checked? Have you got a proper fault code reader for it? I have the iid and it’s been very useful such as coming home from Galway with the caravan and went into limp mode. Cleared an injector fault and away she went and it’s never happened again. At least when the fault happened you could interrogate for codes
Probably the worst possible issue a car can have, time and effort is likely all can solve it as you say. Could be an expensive task if someone is charging by the hour.I’ve had one replaced/upgraded by BLRC, but no others have been replaced/checked to my knowledge. As for fault reader, I do have one of the icarsoft readers, and tried it before when it was dead, and was returning “no signal” faults from keyless module and hvac, and medium can-bus errors. I told this to BLRC and they said they have about 5 modules all talking, and if one fails, it’ll likely shut down the rest. Then LR did say it had stored a medium speed can errors, and as part of their investigation they found the 2 wires. I am paraphrasing a lot, as it would take me all day to explain, and as I mentioned above, I cant fault either BLRC and LR in my experience, it just seems to be a headache to find. I think next step will be a full wiring harness inspection read online about wires behind the dash being the problem but to find and diagnose its the full strip down etc so it’ll no doubt be a fun/expensive repair.
You’ve hit the nail on the head. It’s so frustrating as it’s entirely unpredictable. When it’s driving, it drives great, and had it been mechanical, it would have been fixed back in Feb and we’d have moved on.Probably the worst possible issue a car can have, time and effort is likely all can solve it as you say. Could be an expensive task if someone is charging by the hour.
Agree with getting a host of errors, many of which are red herrings and due to the failed part rather than failing themselves.I’ve had one replaced/upgraded by BLRC, but no others have been replaced/checked to my knowledge. As for fault reader, I do have one of the icarsoft readers, and tried it before when it was dead, and was returning “no signal” faults from keyless module and hvac, and medium can-bus errors. I told this to BLRC and they said they have about 5 modules all talking, and if one fails, it’ll likely shut down the rest. Then LR did say it had stored a medium speed can errors, and as part of their investigation they found the 2 wires. I am paraphrasing a lot, as it would take me all day to explain, and as I mentioned above, I cant fault either BLRC and LR in my experience, it just seems to be a headache to find. I think next step will be a full wiring harness inspection read online about wires behind the dash being the problem but to find and diagnose its the full strip down etc so it’ll no doubt be a fun/expensive repair.
Take it you’ve Webuyanycar’d it out of interest?
NoDoes cheap and reliable tow car exist in any of the LR range?
L322’s despite what people say are generally reliable and bar potential engine failures (lol) so are disco’s when looked after the trouble is just getting one that has been, but freelanders of all varieties are genuinely reliable, nice well spec’d freelander 2 is a cheap nice car.Does cheap and reliable tow car exist in any of the LR range? Some of the models are much cheaper than I thought they’d be in the sub 8-10k range. Even sub 5k took me by surprise a little
Freelander 2 hands down, great tow car. SD4 auto would be my choice.
An average car and transporter would put a Freelander 2 well over its towing limit of 2ton, which is the same as an E39 BMW which would be much comfier, a hell of a lot easier run/maintained and a nicer thing to drive.
I had a year old Freelander 2, and although it was decent, it hadn’t a patch on the cheap L322 TD6 I had, in any shape or form. It was the best £1600 I ever spent, and it got a horrible time. It regularly got tasked with towing and pulling a lot more than the 3.5ton it was rated to tow, and done so effortlessly.
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An alternative to a Range Rover would be a late E53 X5 which has the same great 3.0d engine, though the later models were fitted with a much better ZF 6 speed auto box than the 5 speed GM box which was fitted to the RR of the same years. Coil spring conversion in the rear, and aside from BMW gremlins like crap headlights, blower motors and window mechanisms, there’s little to worry about, and they’ll legally pull 2.7ton.
Trailer with I'm guessing it's going to be the mega busa on it would be grand for the FL2. Easier on the fuel to I'd say. Mine was only the 160hp one and it pulled everything I threw at it like a dream.
Trailer with I'm guessing it's going to be the mega busa on it would be grand for the FL2. Easier on the fuel to I'd say. Mine was only the 160hp one and it pulled everything I threw at it like a dream.
Sent you a PM happy to help were I can.@Ged would you take on a sport that needs an engine or something along those lines sorted?
It’s my late wife’s car and has huge sentimental value and no one will take it on? No time frame to sort it just needs sorted?