Tr7 V8 Fast Road/sprint/trackday Restoration Project.

[IL]

PS, the rocker finish looks great. What sort of hp are you likely to get? Is the vanos still operational or not?

vanos is still installed atm, TDP will be removing it when they are installing the cams.

The engine the cams came out of was similar spec and made 541hp in an E46 M3 GTR.. But it had a better airbox setup.. I don’t have much room to work with.

I’m hoping for ~500hp

 

[svensktoppen]

Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?

It's commonly used for electronics and other things. Any DIY store should have some, or a decent electrical store. And obviously the net of you're not in a hurry.

 

[stevieturbo]

I know stainless looks nice...as can cap screws.

But as the helicoils are usually stainless....and allen keys a pain in the hole. I'd prefer regular bolts ! Stainless on stainless can sometimes gall up and get stuck. More so nuts and bolts, but the potential is there with a helicoil. It's a small risk yes....but if it happens it is a ballix
And if you drop or lose one.....you aint picking it up with a magnet lol.

Any I change now etc...I've gone back to regular plated steel bolts, and I avoid allen keys unless absolutely necessary

 

[FM155]

Second that tbh, I use a lot of stainless fittings on the test equipment I'm working with now and we get the odd one that galls and then both fittings are scrap. We used to get loads of issues with sensor tube fittings galling on the engine bleed ducts too where there is a thermal gradient across the threads. Same sort of conditions you will get with manifold bolts.
Agree with the complete ballix that allen headed bolts are too. They are banned on aircraft engines for maintenance reasons....

 

[stevieturbo]

If you wanted a little bling, some arp style 12pt bolts would do, but regular hex headed flanged nuts/bolts are a good job.

 

[IL]

Its definitely not a bling thing.. sure you can’t see them!

Personally don’t see the issue with cap heads, in a location like this where you are working with feel more than sight, I think they give a positive feeling when you on them and will pull up lovely there with a stubby ratchet!

I hear what you are staying about them Galling tho.

 

[stevieturbo]

If cap head style was your need...I'd go with Torx, they're just much stronger.

I've just grown to hate allen keys over the years, unless they're really needed or for very low clamp needs.

 

[Chris Mac]

Lubricating the threads will cut down on the chance of thread galling though. Any high temp thread lube (upgraded copper grease type) should reduce it.

 

[Rob]

Bit of ceramic paste would do the job

 

[FM155]

The big issue with socket cap heads is that the head gets deformed (expanded) with heat and its all too easy to spin the key bit in the head when it comes time to undo. We used to have an issue with the centre bolts on pinto exhaust manifolds in the FF2000 cars as the builder insisted on using cap heads. Mid season strip and refresh used to be a nightmare as at least one would spin and then it was a handling to get something in to grip it and get it off. (This was in the pre-irwin era).

12 point double hex heads are deffo the best imo but Torx would be the best cap headed.

 

[stevieturbo]

For all the very same reasons.

 

[IL]

Spent some time on Sunday mating the engine and Box together as id finally taken delivery of the TTV Flywheel for the 7.25" Clutch.

Previously I had never installed the Gearbox with this flywheel which was bit of an oversight as the adaptor place doesn't work with it.

So Scoured the forums last night for a used Autobox from an 4.4 V8 X5, and managed to source a Bellhousing from a knackered gearbox and it should arrive on Wednesday, I'm going to attempt to cobble together my own bellhousing with a water jetted type9 front face welded to the rear of the autobox bell housing.

This is all abit of a choke considering the Bellhousing, Adaptor plate, flywheel & Clutch combo was nearly £1600, but I will make it work.

Anyway..

 

[FM155]

Ooooff, that's a bit of a kick in the spuds! Some going to have another plan on the go already though, it's the only way with these things, keep knocking down the problems.

Looks the dogs do-dahs with the ram pipes and manifolds though.

 

[stevieturbo]

Doesnt work in what regard ? Was it not intended for this ? And can it not be made to work ?

 

[IL]

Doesnt work in what regard ? Was it not intended for this ? And can it not be made to work ?

No these combination of parts where never intended to be used together, the adaptor plate is to be used with an Alloy offset flywheel of a smaller diameter which I did have but gave a poor choice of clutches for the 5L engine.

There are a few other reasons for considering changing from the adaptor plate -

First off the the gearbox side of the adaptor is of a smaller diameter than the engine side, you will notice the new flywheel has a crank trigger built in, the adaptor and bellhousing do not clear this. I looked at welding the adaptor plate face to the bellhousing and machining out the inside of both parts for clearance but it would leave next to no wall on the casting and look like ****.

Also the crank sensor was going to have to be factored into this bellhousing somewhere, so some kind of boss was going to have to be machined up and welded in place to carry it, looked at machining off the trigger moving it to the front pulley but with the dry sump take off and hormonic damper there is just too much going on at that end.

Changing to the modified auto housing (£40 part to Start with) accommodates the crank sensor pick up as standard, appears to measure in depth to allow me to use my current clutch/ input shaft (£3-400 saved), Clears the trigger wheel & allows me to flog the other parts.

But it will require me to have the prop lengthened or run a spacer, slightly adjust the gear selector rod from the Tractive stick & have a new rear mount fabricated and the box will shifted forward by approx 30mm.

 

[IL]

@stevieturbo

The Auto Bell housing actually lends itself quite nicely to having a flat plate welded on the back and opened out the Type9 Pattern

I'll wait until I have it in my hand and mocked up before I do anymore man maths on it.

If it works, I wish id considered this route first as it will certainly be the cheapest and I wouldn't have to be re-doing mounts etc.

fingers crossed it will clear the Exhaust manifolds etc.

 

[EF Ian]

Engine looks awesome.

Good luck getting it all sorted.

 

[stevieturbo]

I know it'd cost a bit more, but would Tractive not make you a nice adapter ? Or is the T9 just the way all their boxes are configured ?

 

[IL]

I know it'd cost a bit more, but would Tractive not make you a nice adapter ? Or is the T9 just the way all their boxes are configured ?

No they do a number of front plates Designs, Volvo, GM, T9 & T5 etc and an alloy bellhousing for the newer s65 engine but nothing that will make it work any better so I many just work with what I have.

 

[svensktoppen]

All part of the fun of a completely custom build like this. You'll get there, one bump at a time Just make sure to enjoy the ride!

 

[IL]

All part of the fun of a completely custom build like this. You'll get there, one bump at a time Just make sure to enjoy the ride!

Certainly enjoying it better these days

 

[IL]

Quick update on the Gearbox, Auto Bellhousing arrived, it clears flywheel, cleared the exhausts & accepts the crank sensor.

I'm Going to have an extra long one off input shaft made to put the gearbox right back to where it should sit with the rear mount etc, this will mean an almost 50mm adaptor between the box and bell housing but I'm going to hold off on doing that until I've the shell back so I can be sure everything clears in the tunnel etc.

Also the TR7 is moving workshop for the 5th time, moving house again! It will take a little time to get its new quarters organised so pretty much all on hold until the spring time.

Focus has Lately been on the MG Midget. It will make the Saloon & GT grid in March 2020

I'll Maybe do an MG Midget thread when its completely finished.

 

[slickcell]

Quick update on the Gearbox, Auto Bellhousing arrived, it clears flywheel, cleared the exhausts & accepts the crank sensor.

View attachment 258152

View attachment 258151

I'm Going to have an extra long one off input shaft made to put the gearbox right back to where it should sit with the rear mount etc, this will mean an almost 50mm adaptor between the box and bell housing but I'm going to hold off on doing that until I've the shell back so I can be sure everything clears in the tunnel etc.

Also the TR7 is moving workshop for the 5th time, moving house again! It will take a little time to get its new quarters organised so pretty much all on hold until the spring time.

Focus has Lately been on the MG Midget. It will make the Saloon & GT grid in March 2020

View attachment 258149

View attachment 258150

View attachment 258153



I'll Maybe do an MG Midget thread when its completely finished.

Goals! Great stuff man - I can't wait to see both of these in the flesh!

 

[IL]

Goals! Great stuff man - I can't wait to see both of these in the flesh!

How are you getting on with the Westie? all finished knowing you!!

 

[stevieturbo]

I'd either wrap the exhaust at the point where the crank sensor is, or add some sort of heat shield between the two