Treating rust

[Gareth]

We all know that EP3's are prone to rusting. I removed the rear speaker on the drivers side to find what's photo'd below.

Thankfully, its mainly surface rust as I've given it a good poke with a screwdriver. My question is, what's best to treat this with, before it gets any worse. Anything that'll dissolve the rust for me to clean it out and the coat it in something.

All help welcome

 

[swansty]

I’m currently using POR-15 for similar which goes directly on to the rust and supposedly stops it. There are a few threads on here if you search.

 

[Coog]

Have you a hole top left of that photo? Where's the moisture coming from? I'd want to be getting to both sides of that if I could.

Clean it back as best you can, remove all the loose bits then treat & paint.

I also quite like POR-15. Several years ago (as a wee experiment) I painted a bit of my knackered old rusty wheel barrow with it and it's still holding up well. You'd want to make sure it's got a good solid surface to go on though.

 

[Burt2000]

The only way to get rid for good is cut it out and weld in fresh steel but I’m thinking you probably don’t want to go that route. To try and slow it down, Wire wheel on a drill to get rid of what’s there and hope it doesn’t go through, which it’s might once you go at it properly, depends if the panel is very thin or not. Then something like kurust, topped with a zinc paint or POR15.

 

[swansty]

The only way to get rid for good is cut it out and weld in fresh steel but I’m thinking you probably don’t want to go that route. To try and slow it down, Wire wheel on a drill to get rid of what’s there and hope it doesn’t go through, which it’s might once you go at it properly, depends if the panel is very thin or not. Then something like kurust, topped with a zinc paint or POR15.

I don’t think it’s recommended to use Kurust or any rust converter prior to POR-15. It works by bonding to rust

 

[Burt2000]

Ah right, I haven’t used POR15 before in the past I’ve just went with a rust converter then zinc cold galvanising paint. It will always come back though, hateful.

 

[Jaystar77]

I've been using Bilt Hamber stuff for the last while, seems to be fairly straight forward to apply. Just hope it does what it promises.

There's a spot on the underside of my car I'll be treating this weekend. Plan is wire wheel, Hydrate-80 convertor, Electrox zinc primer and Dynax wax coating. As said above, it'll not stop it but it will slow it down all being well.

 

[Coog]

Feb 2017 I cleaned my brush of POR-15 on this wee bit and it's been lying outside the whole time. Was a rusty patch that had broke through the galvanising, you can actually still feel the rough rusty surface underneath. Not a drop of rust has reappeared though the UV has grey'd it quite a bit.

 

[Gareth]

Have you a hole top left of that photo? Where's the moisture coming from? I'd want to be getting to both sides of that if I could.

Clean it back as best you can, remove all the loose bits then treat & paint.

I also quite like POR-15. Several years ago (as a wee experiment) I painted a bit of my knackered old rusty wheel barrow with it and it's still holding up well. You'd want to make sure it's got a good solid surface to go on though.

Yes, that's a 'drain hole' in the arch that will be getting a patch welded into it. The hole there, from the factory, is quite small, but got bigger when I ground back the surface when I pulled out the arch liners and painted it.

The hard part is getting to the affected area as I have to go through a speaker hole, so couldn't get a drill and wire brush in there. Is Por 15 brushable, or a spray?

 

[Coog]

Both.

That's going to need cut out tbh

 

[Rooneyrocket]

Side skirts holding moisture seems to cause this problem, once you removal them you might see some surface rust underneath. The interior panel is easily removed to give you better excess if its a quick job your doing.

Would recommend getting rust cut out and replaced if your intending to keep the car, better sooner than later.

 

[Cro]

Might take you forever but what about a wire brush attachment on a twisty Dremel extension attachment

 

[stevieturbo]

Really it needs cut out..but that isnt an easy option. Or treated on both sides as you can be sure the other will be bad too.

I got 70-36 Metaflux Rust-i-Sol 500 hours salt test (DIN 53167-50021) from @Woodcutter a few years back which seemed decent.

More recently got some of this to spray into cavities prior to waxing.

Cant really comment on how good or bad as only starting to use it, although the companies website does seem like they are fairly industrial.

AQUASTEEL RUST CONVERTER AND PRIMER FOR BRUSH OR SPRAY 1 ltr | eBay

Apply Aquasteel onto the area using brush, roller or spray. To ensure the best protection possible two or more coats of Aquasteel should be used depending on the rust density and exposure to salt. Aquasteel should not be used in confined spaces.

www.ebay.co.uk

And there are a variety of expensive rust killing primer paints too ( not DIY stuff, but they are bloody expensive )

I bought some of this recently...but again, havent used it yet and so no way to say how good or bad.

A lot of places are funny about posting a lot of products like it though. This one was down south so no problems as no air carriage involved.

RustBullet® Rust Preventative Coatings. The No.1 Choice

RustBullet Superior Rust Control paints are designed to protect and repair any metal liable to rust. RustBullet is a market leader. It Kills Rust.

www.rustbulletireland.com

 

[brocks]

Have seen great results on DetailingWorld with the Bilt Hamber range of rust converter, and protection products

 

[Robert]

Really it needs cut out..but that isnt an easy option. Or treated on both sides as you can be sure the other will be bad too.

I got 70-36 Metaflux Rust-i-Sol 500 hours salt test (DIN 53167-50021) from @Woodcutter a few years back which seemed decent.

More recently got some of this to spray into cavities prior to waxing.

Cant really comment on how good or bad as only starting to use it, although the companies website does seem like they are fairly industrial.

AQUASTEEL RUST CONVERTER AND PRIMER FOR BRUSH OR SPRAY 1 ltr | eBay

Apply Aquasteel onto the area using brush, roller or spray. To ensure the best protection possible two or more coats of Aquasteel should be used depending on the rust density and exposure to salt. Aquasteel should not be used in confined spaces.

www.ebay.co.uk

And there are a variety of expensive rust killing primer paints too ( not DIY stuff, but they are bloody expensive )

I bought some of this recently...but again, havent used it yet and so no way to say how good or bad.

A lot of places are funny about posting a lot of products like it though. This one was down south so no problems as no air carriage involved.

RustBullet® Rust Preventative Coatings. The No.1 Choice

RustBullet Superior Rust Control paints are designed to protect and repair any metal liable to rust. RustBullet is a market leader. It Kills Rust.

www.rustbulletireland.com

I’ve been using aquasteel for a couple of tractor restorations and other small jobs, too early to tell but seems to do a good job at the time and a small amount lasts forever. Can tend to form a skin if laid on too heavy.

 

[stevieturbo]

I’ve been using aquasteel for a couple of tractor restorations and other small jobs, too early to tell but seems to do a good job at the time and a small amount lasts forever. Can tend to form a skin if laid on too heavy.

I think the point of a lot of those products, is they do form a skin, trapping the rust in and keeping it contained.

 

[Robert]

The problem I found is that too thick a layer resulting in a skin actually seemed to prevent the product reacting with the rust and could then be just peeled off.

 

[swansty]

Anyone ever seen this? Layer of condensation on the newly coated surface (POR-15) and pin p***ks of rust coming through. Painted between 1 day and a week ago. Condensation stinks of iron. No way water could have got on it from an external source. Car was sitting in all the sun we had for over a week after washing prior to painting.

 

[mark19]

Anyone ever seen this? Layer of condensation on the newly coated surface (POR-15) and pin p***ks of rust coming through. Painted between 1 day and a week ago. Condensation stinks of iron. No way water could have got on it from an external source. Car was sitting in all the sun we had for over a week after washing prior to painting.
View attachment 283987

Did you use the metal prep spray etc and well washed off before painting? Looks like the paint has stuck to some bits. I used por15 on all my project. Always hosed the part done as per instructions before painting

 

[Apis]

I used this stuff recently. Converts to a black colour and was good value. Don't know about long term. I covered it in Dinitrol afterwards.
Our Rust Converter Stops Your Land Rover Rusting Away.

 

[swansty]

Did you use the metal prep spray etc and well washed off before painting? Looks like the paint has stuck to some bits. I used por15 on all my project. Always hosed the part done as per instructions before painting

Nope, washed down and then wire wheeled. It seems fine anywhere there wasn’t rust but has reacted anywhere there was rust. The way I read it the metal prep was more for new or painted surfaces rather than rusty ones.

 

[FM155]

I've seen that appear on stuff I've done with k rust and multiple layers of paint afterwards. Does my head in.

 

[swansty]

I've seen that appear on stuff I've done with k rust and multiple layers of paint afterwards. Does my head in.

Do you reckon it’s creating a perfect environment for rust underneath then?

 

[FM155]

It looks that way but doesn't seem to develop, and you don't want to start stripping off the paint again to find out.

 

[swansty]

I am awaiting a technical response from POR but will likely just over spray it with wax and hope for the best. Very annoying as the wheelbarrow which had zero prep and was used for the last of the paint is perfect!