- Thread Starter
- #201
Yes its a good job although the wide rear haunches I am still thankful for the sensors!
Lotus Exige V6S
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pablo
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Im very jealous!
- Thread Starter
- #205
Minor update as my “overnight parts” from the US are now “over weeks”.
Thanks to @seanmooney for the inspiration from his vx220 thread fitted lift pucks tonight. Means the car can go on a 2 post now without taking the belly panel off and will give the MOT man something to aim for.
Thanks to @seanmooney for the inspiration from his vx220 thread fitted lift pucks tonight. Means the car can go on a 2 post now without taking the belly panel off and will give the MOT man something to aim for.
michelinman
RMS Regular
How close are these to the ground at normal ride height? Looks like a much nicer way to locate the jacking points
svensktoppen
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Standard cars around 120-140mm, give or take depending on model.
Low road cars 110-115mm.
Track/race cars 90-110mm.
Usually set up 5-10mm higher at the rear, but that varies too.
The problem with those "pucks" and lifting with the undertray on is there's a chance of slipping unless the car is completely level the whole time. The original lift points under the tray don't have that problem.
For doing work the tray usually has to come off anyway for access, and it's easy to do.
At MoT they simply don't lift mine, just leave a note that they didn't but usually not even that.
Low road cars 110-115mm.
Track/race cars 90-110mm.
Usually set up 5-10mm higher at the rear, but that varies too.
The problem with those "pucks" and lifting with the undertray on is there's a chance of slipping unless the car is completely level the whole time. The original lift points under the tray don't have that problem.
For doing work the tray usually has to come off anyway for access, and it's easy to do.
At MoT they simply don't lift mine, just leave a note that they didn't but usually not even that.
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pablo
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there is another tray to go on so the car floor itself isn’t any lower. The puck sits above the tray and under the chassis so you can jack on the tray and not damage anything as the puck is taking the weight. With the tray back on you couldn’t tell it was there.
seanmooney
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Did you have to drill a hole to fit yours?
I haven't got round to fitting mine yet as its sitting on stands at the minute, but i had a quick look and i think id need to drill a hole to fit them.
- Thread Starter
- #210
No - the bolt closest to the side of the car comes out, and replaced by the bolt in the puck. Took me a minute or three to work that out, then it was simple.
seanmooney
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is it this one?
be handy if the pucks came with instructions or a picture even.
- Thread Starter
- #212
That’s it. I was grumbling the same thing last night LOL.
seanmooney
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A local guy here is printing me up some of the jacking point stickers to put on, don't want to be caught out.
- Thread Starter
- #214
Elise shop do them for a few quid!
pablo
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its true, he was
Big Pimp
RMS Trader
michelinman
RMS Regular
Wow standard ride height is quite low already lol!
Aaah, that’s really interesting! I always wondered how it was possible to jack under the aluminum without damaging it. Assuming that the chassis is normally exposed without the pucks. What are the standard jack points made of/attached to?
pablo
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mainly the chassis rails (alu box section that runs the length of the car). Then a couple of suspension mounts on the rear subframe.
michelinman
RMS Regular
So a pucking good idea to install that solution!
pablo
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looks fast even when sat still!
- Thread Starter
- #223
With this abundance of time over Easter I decided to pull off the rims and give them a coat of wax back and front.
What I didn't expect was a layer of caked on brake dust, especially on the fronts. Thanks to the DS2500 pads no doubt before i took them off.
Took a good 4 treatments of iron fallout remover - all I had was AG Magma, seems decent enough and it had its work cut out - and it all came away.
I gave the whole car a coat of bilt hamber (recommended on here, great stuff) so used the same for the rims and they came up great. I'll be sure to hit the dish with fallout remover on a semi regular basis so I don't have to put myself through this again!
What I didn't expect was a layer of caked on brake dust, especially on the fronts. Thanks to the DS2500 pads no doubt before i took them off.
Took a good 4 treatments of iron fallout remover - all I had was AG Magma, seems decent enough and it had its work cut out - and it all came away.
I gave the whole car a coat of bilt hamber (recommended on here, great stuff) so used the same for the rims and they came up great. I'll be sure to hit the dish with fallout remover on a semi regular basis so I don't have to put myself through this again!
- Thread Starter
- #224
Thumbs up on Monday!
Thanks to @thornracing and Tom for the pics, great day at Kirkistown yesterday, got absolutely baked. Also very pleased that my skimmed brakes, with all the crap drilled out and PF pads made a job of it and I could brake much later with far more confidence, and in fact had no fade all day which is just incredible. Highlights the need for harnesses more than anything!
Thanks to @thornracing and Tom for the pics, great day at Kirkistown yesterday, got absolutely baked. Also very pleased that my skimmed brakes, with all the crap drilled out and PF pads made a job of it and I could brake much later with far more confidence, and in fact had no fade all day which is just incredible. Highlights the need for harnesses more than anything!
Big Pimp
RMS Trader
