Polisher Buying Guide?
- Thread starter Lyons
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Deleted member 13907
D
It's a while since I've bought any, but I generally did find a difference to an extent.
I would have used the Meguiars ones quite a bit - I found them softer than some of the cheaper alternatives and they seemed to be able to pick up the residue easier.
As you say, one for each stage (strictly speaking) but if its a big microfibre, I would just keep turning it to a clean portion if possible.
Kent do a pack of 6 cloths - I generally wouldn't have used them on paintwork, but they were fine for interior, wheels, etc.
They're just a bit smaller and harder.
Ruairi83
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Paddy_R
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@Davey@Procar does big packs of excellent microfiber cloths for decent money too. Had a selection of colours last time I was in as well.
Mark@PD
RMS Regular
As well as C2v3 try wetcoat and cure by Gyeon as an alternative, both are very good at what they do and will give you a couple of months protection.
- Thread Starter
- #82
The wife has already ordered the Liquid Crystal I believe.
Multi-purpose polishing microfibre cloths and buffing microfibre cloths- is there really a difference for the likes of me?
And are a fallout remover and tar remover both necessary stages in advance of a machine polish?
Multi-purpose polishing microfibre cloths and buffing microfibre cloths- is there really a difference for the likes of me?
And are a fallout remover and tar remover both necessary stages in advance of a machine polish?
Last edited:
Deleted member 13907
D
And clay bar
Gobsheene
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RE a DA Polisher.
I bought a KingBarney on the strength of the name being mildly hilarious. (And a few posts on detailing world to say they weren't bad!)
For a hobbyist its not a bad tool, wasn't too dear at £130 with a pile of pads and stuff.
Edit: They're only £100 now!
EXZENTER ROTIERENDE EXZENTRISCHE Profi Poliermaschine, Polierer Set 2, 710Watt | eBay
(Those pads are hard as hell too, probably best stuck to the garage wall to stop you dinging the door when you get out)
Still find a rotary buffer to be faster, but i'm no professional
I bought a KingBarney on the strength of the name being mildly hilarious. (And a few posts on detailing world to say they weren't bad!)
For a hobbyist its not a bad tool, wasn't too dear at £130 with a pile of pads and stuff.
Edit: They're only £100 now!
EXZENTER ROTIERENDE EXZENTRISCHE Profi Poliermaschine, Polierer Set 2, 710Watt | eBay
(Those pads are hard as hell too, probably best stuck to the garage wall to stop you dinging the door when you get out)
Still find a rotary buffer to be faster, but i'm no professional
Gibbo
RMS Regular
I use the Kirkland microfibres for most paint types 36 pack for usually around £20.
Microfibre Madness yellow fellows are class but come in at £7/8 each. Also using Gyeon Polish wipe and it’s really nice to use.
There’s a another brand doing the rounds at the moment called Klin and seem to be excellent.
DAS6 pro would be hard to beat for starters.
Microfibre Madness yellow fellows are class but come in at £7/8 each. Also using Gyeon Polish wipe and it’s really nice to use.
There’s a another brand doing the rounds at the moment called Klin and seem to be excellent.
DAS6 pro would be hard to beat for starters.
-Pete-
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There's more than one way to skin a cat but you like to know you have a good set of knives to do it!
That's what this sort of thing can be equated to in my opinion, a bit like golf. Everyone's trying to get the lowest amount of strokes, but just use different ball and club combos to do it but the end result can be effectively the same, to a greater extent.
Also a big level of diminishing returns comes into it. For the home gamer, that final 10%, heck even 25% wont even be noticed or known how to be achieved with using a better pad/polish/machine. Like said already, if a shinier car is your goal, then no problem.
for sure there's a discernible and measurable difference to the pro or well experienced user.
I remember when I got into it, everyone was turning away from rotary's of old and it was all about the porter cable DA. I ended up buying one and the makita rotary (I still have and use the makita, sold the porter cable) and its still a great machine.
Even like power tools in general (or even mobile phones) they haven't been able to make the same big leaps forward in the hardware in more recent years and more improvements can be made in the coatings themselves and the pads (from what I understand - I'm long out of the game, not that I was ever IN the game )
I'm still rocking my makita rotary with 3m backing pads and menzerna polishes with midnight sun wax! outoftouch.com
That's what this sort of thing can be equated to in my opinion, a bit like golf. Everyone's trying to get the lowest amount of strokes, but just use different ball and club combos to do it but the end result can be effectively the same, to a greater extent.
Also a big level of diminishing returns comes into it. For the home gamer, that final 10%, heck even 25% wont even be noticed or known how to be achieved with using a better pad/polish/machine. Like said already, if a shinier car is your goal, then no problem.
for sure there's a discernible and measurable difference to the pro or well experienced user.
I remember when I got into it, everyone was turning away from rotary's of old and it was all about the porter cable DA. I ended up buying one and the makita rotary (I still have and use the makita, sold the porter cable) and its still a great machine.
Even like power tools in general (or even mobile phones) they haven't been able to make the same big leaps forward in the hardware in more recent years and more improvements can be made in the coatings themselves and the pads (from what I understand - I'm long out of the game, not that I was ever IN the game
)I'm still rocking my makita rotary with 3m backing pads and menzerna polishes with midnight sun wax!
outoftouch.com Gus
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hippyross
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If you don't remove the tar and fallout you'll be lifting it out of the paint with the pad and rubbing it round the panel.
If you not being too anal I'd just tar and glue it and then if you want to go all out clay bar it before hand to remove any embedded particles.
Eamo_vxr
RMS Regular
Kirkland 32 pack is unbeatable value. Totally safe for paintwork. Some of the top detailers in the uk use them.
I’m not a big fan of the really plush expensive microfibres for residue removal as I find they don’t have the “bite” needed.
I’m not a big fan of the really plush expensive microfibres for residue removal as I find they don’t have the “bite” needed.
Not going to lie, I didn't read the thread other than the first post and the question asked. But a DAS 6 Pro and Megs Microfibre kit... anyone can use it and a lot of the "Pros" use it too Requires reading the instructions on the back of the two bottles and that's it. Nothing to it.
Oh and some twin halogen lights on a pole to show up what you're working on is always useful.
Requires reading the instructions on the back of the two bottles and that's it. Nothing to it.Oh and some twin halogen lights on a pole to show up what you're working on is always useful.
Eamo_vxr
RMS Regular
This is megs 105/205 with orange/white hex pads.
- Thread Starter
- #98
Brilliant! Did you just pick it up yourself?
Eamo_vxr
RMS Regular
Yeah buddy, just practice. Been doing it a right few years now. Few things I’ve learned, technique over products every time, also every car is different.