Rust treaments

[_James_]

about to tackle the underside of the MR2 and it is rather very rusty. What do people recommend to use to inhibit the rust before applying stonechip coat etc?

 

[Ruairi83]

@Woodcutter advised @pablo for m3

 

[Woodcutter]

Dinitrol RC800 or RC900 (same product only one is aerosol and one needs applied via gun), which is a rust convertor/inhibitor. Then Coat with Dinitrol 4941.

Job jobbed.

 

[pablo]

FWIW I brushed the 4941 stuff on rather than use an air gun. I also recommend the aersol version of the 800/900 stuff as it doesnt take much so the spray can is handy.

 

[G N K]

@Boabybooster

 

[Mark_C]

I tried the dinitrol stuff after reading all the good reviews and followed directions and I found it peeling off after a few months where POR wasn't peeling off (I did one half of each to test), so I've just went back to waxoyl a couple of times a year.

Both were applied on a lift on a clean dry car (even used a space heater to dry it for half a day beforehand )

 

[Boabybooster]

@Boabybooster

Rust free now.

 

[Coog]

I tried the dinitrol stuff after reading all the good reviews and followed directions and I found it peeling off after a few months where POR wasn't peeling off (I did one half of each to test), so I've just went back to waxoyl a couple of times a year.

Both were applied on a lift on a clean dry car (even used a space heater to dry it for half a day beforehand )

POR15 is the one to go for as @Mark_C says. It just goes straight on to the rust and sets absolutely hard as nails.

 

[_James_]

Dinitrol RC800 or RC900 (same product only one is aerosol and one needs applied via gun), which is a rust convertor/inhibitor. Then Coat with Dinitrol 4941.

Job jobbed.

Do you keep this in stock? It’ll give me an excuse to go visit me oul mother!

 

[_James_]

POR15 is the one to go for as @Mark_C says. It just goes straight on to the rust and sets absolutely hard as nails.

Does it neutralise/inhibit the rust as well? I really don’t fancy painting it up for it just to rust away out of sight.

 

[Odhran]

Bilthamber stuff is supposed to be very good.

 

[Woodcutter]

Do you keep this in stock? It’ll give me an excuse to go visit me oul mother!

Yes mate, all in stock and ready to go.

 

[Burt2000]

How bad is the rust? Is it just light surface or are we talking falling apart like weetabix

 

[_James_]

How bad is the rust? Is it just light surface or are we talking falling apart like weetabix

Surface, nothing too questionable yet

 

[Burt2000]

I bought a tub of this below for the Subaru but turns I didn’t need it, you paint it on cover in cling film and remove after 24hrs and apparently it brings it back to clean metal. Check the how to use tab for pics

Deox-Gel | Rust Removing Gel for Corrosion Protection - Bilt Hamber

 

[Coog]

Does it neutralise/inhibit the rust as well? I really don’t fancy painting it up for it just to rust away out of sight.

Yep it does it all in one go. It doesn't like existing paint or clean metal, it actaully works best going onto rust. You can overcoat it or leave it (it's not UV stable so will go grey if exposed to sunlight).

 

[Coog]

Octavia VRS 2.0t Estate

About half way down that page I used a drop. IIRC I had to rust the sills up a bit for it to take. They're still absolutely perfect 15/16 odd months later.

 

[_James_]

Octavia VRS 2.0t Estate

About half way down that page I used a drop. IIRC I had to rust the sills up a bit for it to take. They're still absolutely perfect 15/16 odd months later.

That’s a damn fine job. Where would one pick up this Por-15?

 

[Simon998]

Bilthamber stuff is supposed to be very good.

I rated Bilt Hamber highly until I tried hydrate 80 on the boot floor of the rallye. It was wirebrushed/wheeled back as far as I was comfortable with, hydrate 80 applied (2 coats with 24 hours in between) then painted with 3 coats of paint. Within 2 years and ~500miles, all summer/dry day miles, the rust has started to poke through again.

I'll be tackling it again in winter with POR15 this time.

 

[Neil_M]

Fire up a few photos if you can to get an idea...

To provide a durable stone / damage protection the POR15 is the absolute nuts. As it's been said it can be picky about the surface you apply it to. Do note they do provide a metal prep to apply to rusty areas prior to POR15.

Beyond that, I would suggest the BiltHamber products as a cavity wax, additional layer of protection and their underbody coatings. In fairness to @Woodcutter the Dinitrol products have a great reputation too. I can only really comment on what I have used and had success with.

A combination of both POR15 as a hard coating and a cavity wax / underbody coatings would be unbeatable.

 

[bigsigh]

That’s a damn fine job. Where would one pick up this Por-15?

ebay or amazon, my advice would be to buy multiple small tubs rather than one big one (think this was @svensktoppen advice to me at the time) , and wear some gloves, then put some gloves over the gloves , then wrap your whole self in some thick plastic and then put some more gloves on top.

also buy some cheapo B&M paint brushes and dont even try to clean them, just buck them in the bin

 

[swansty]

Watching with interest as I have a tow bar and drop plate to tidy up. Ideally I want to stay with the original matt black finish.

 

[svensktoppen]

Don't know about using POR-15 for complete undercoating, I've only used it on things like wishbones and tie rods and other bits and pieces. Did use it on the floor in the Lotus cabin though.

It sets rock hard and perfectly smooth.

As above it likes a rough surface for something to bite on. Just clean and degrease, then paint straight on.

If the surface is smooth then use an etch primer first. The same manufacturer makes that too. In my personal experience it is best to "stay in the family" as it were for best POR-15 results, the chemistry is a bit unique.

And small containers as above, it goes a very long way and doesn't last very long once opened. If you do need to re-seal it then put some cling film between the lid and the can or you will never get it open again

Don't get it anywhere you don't want it, wipe immediately if needed, it will never go away once set, lol Keep a good supply of cellulose thinner handy in case you get any spills, it's the only thing that will shift it and even then only before it sets.

It really is brilliant stuff!

I get mine from here:
High Quality Tools and Equipment | Frost Restoration

 

[mark19]

Por15 for suspension components etc

Epoxy mastic 121 for underfloor etc. Check out my build thread for pics

 

[Jethro]

A word of warning using POR15.. If you accidentally get it on your hands, arms or face and let it dry in do not think it will be easily washed off. It has to wear off and can take weeks!!