My Evo 9 GT

[Samy888]

Superb, I love that pair of yellow beauties

thanks! most people in our street I’m sure think we are complete weirdos with 2 yellow cars haha

I could be wrong but I’ve been seeing more and more performance type yellow cars these days, I’m thinking yellow is making a bit of a comeback

 

[Eager]

Looks good. You’s May sort a good car port come wash bay and stick a gate on it, keep toys out of sight.

 

[Samy888]

Looks good. You’s May sort a good car port come wash bay and stick a gate on it, keep toys out of sight.

Yep that’s the plan eventually, although who’d want a big yellow BM

 

[Eager]

Is it another 318 ?

 

[Gemma]

@Eager limited edition 312! Lol

 

[svensktoppen]

I could be wrong but I’ve been seeing more and more performance type yellow cars these days, I’m thinking yellow is making a bit of a comeback

Yellow is faster, lol, well known fact

 

[Todd]

What a pair! Both are perfect.

 

[Samy888]

What a pair! Both are perfect.

Cheers! much appreciated

 

[EF Ian]

Yellow can be great, but only on some cars, in your case, it works on both.


Never thought I'd like a yellow BM until I walked past this:



I also have a thing for yellow RX-7s, but I don't I'd actually be brave enough to have mine in that colour, probably blue or red.

 

[Samy888]

Yellow can be great, but only on some cars, in your case, it works on both.


Never thought I'd like a yellow BM until I walked past this:

View attachment 219188

I also have a thing for yellow RX-7s, but I don't I'd actually be brave enough to have mine in that colour, probably blue or red.

Cheers Ian, is agree with you that does look great. The F10 M3 in speed yellow is an awesome looking thing too. As for a yellow RX7, myself & gemma have talked about that option many’s of times

 

[Samy888]

Hey Guys,

One of the main pieces of the puzzle finally arrived today, an Owen developments 80 series turbo.

I had said I would go for something larger but to be honest, on a stock motor with stock rods especially it will be more than enough for what I want right now.

I now just need to get a Link ECU and everything can be fitted & mapped. We will see how long it takes but fingers crossed this summer as I’m busting to get out in the finished article

Also for a touch of bling and some extra JDM points I picked up a JUN oil cap.

A billet Aluminium lump, it’s just a lovely wee piece that really catches your eye under the bonnet. It’s all about the little things!

Thanks guys.

Sam

 

[Eager]

You decided to buy link then.
80 series runs lovely on them. That’s what I had. 1.8 bar or something I think it ran at.

Your best to leave it there. Anything more just gets daft. 400 is usable and reliable while reasonably doo’able without robbing your granny

 

[Samy888]

You decided to buy link then.
80 series runs lovely on them. That’s what I had. 1.8 bar or something I think it ran at.

Your best to leave it there. Anything more just gets daft. 400 is usable and reliable while reasonably doo’able without robbing your granny

Link seems to be the way to go on all evo’s these days, with the majority of tuners recommending them. I know a few guys with them fitted and they tell me it’s what to have.

As for the turbo, I don’t want to be chasing silly figures so a sensible power suits me whilst keeping it as reliable as a standard car.

 

[G N K]

Hope your using Jonny to map and set it up?

Some nice bits now!

 

[Eager]

Thing is, ya don’t need link

Tuners push it, they all push it, because they are under big pressure from Link hq to hit targets. I know some large mainland tuners have stepped back from link just because of this, apparently they are very controlling. But that’s the reason lots of tuning companies push link so much.
My evo was ucutek’d and was 10000% and made a genuine 400/400. I hand on heart would not have noticed any difference if it had link
Same with my skyline, twice I’ve went from power fc to link on 2 Skyline’s and emanage to link on another skyline. same car same spec same owner same driving. Difference? None noticeable. I just like wasting money. Lol. The change was made because of other issues and ecu change was part of ruling out faults.

 

[acsmyth]

Never understood the difference between the major brands of ECU.

Never understood how Syvecs were like two times the price of others.

 

[scub]

Thing is, ya don’t need link

Tuners push it, they all push it, because they are under big pressure from Link hq to hit targets. I know some large mainland tuners have stepped back from link just because of this, apparently they are very controlling. But that’s the reason lots of tuning companies push link so much.
My evo was ucutek’d and was 10000% and made a genuine 400/400. I hand on heart would not have noticed any difference if it had link
Same with my skyline, twice I’ve went from power fc to link on 2 Skyline’s and emanage to link on another skyline. same car same spec same owner same driving. Difference? None noticeable. I just like wasting money. Lol. The change was made because of other issues and ecu change was part of ruling out faults.

so are autronic & vipec old hat now?
they were the desired options back when I had my mak?

 

[EF Ian]

Nice parts there.


I love my Link ecu, wouldn't touch a power FC myself, the actual map won't be much different but you can refine everything more and its all the other features I love, unless you are setting it up though you won't see the difference yourself. You will not be disappointed with the link if you go for it, but if you can find something cheaper by all means go for it. If you pick from Motec, Link, Adaptronic, ViPec, Haltech, Syvecs you will not go wrong. I would use Motec if I could afford it but if I had done so it would not have had any extra benefit over the link to be fair.

Check out NZ EFI for link, its possible you can save money buying it from them, I saved a massive amount over buying it from anyone I checked with in the UK..

so are autronic & vipec old hat now?

Vi-Pec are great, they are actually made by link as a slightly higher spec version however they cost more and won't benefit you over a link, some of the features they have as standard which the links don't can be upgraded to on the link, thats what I did.

 

[Eager]

Coming from all my cars, all tuned. 4 power fc, one emanage, 3 link, one ecutek flash, one Hdev s14 map
On a road car, road driving. A>B or spirited drive. No differences.

What did everyone do in Japan before link ? These cars were pushing big reliable numbers long before any these ecu’s came about. It’s about who’s on the laptop pressing the keys than what’s in the car IMO.

Don’t get me wrong, hook up oil pressure, oil temp and closed loop boost and fuel ratio feedback, knock etc, link can add ignition cut or boost cut or rpm limit etc around feedback. But add another grand on top of a basic link install to get that fully setup.

 

[EF Ian]

On a road car, road driving. A>B or spirited drive. No differences.

On a road car, the noticeable differences won't be massive, especially on a setup that isn't pushing boundaries. On a more stressed setup the more advanced options available on a higher end ecu will help make the tune more accurate, especially with things like individual cylinder tuning.

What did everyone do in Japan before link ? These cars were pushing big reliable numbers long before any these ecu’s came about. It’s about who’s on the laptop pressing the keys than what’s in the car IMO.

Don’t get me wrong, hook up oil pressure, oil temp and closed loop boost and fuel ratio feedback, knock etc, link can add ignition cut or boost cut or rpm limit etc around feedback. But add another grand on top of a basic link install to get that fully setup.

Of course you can tune a car on an older or cheaper Ecu, the main things you need for a tune are the ignition and fuel maps so any good tuner can set these up safely. But you cannot argue that with a higher spec ECU its much safer due to all the safety parameters you can setup, with my engine costing me so much I feel much safer knowing I have everything in check and the ECU sorting out any issues based on the values I set. Fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, boost, AFR, knock, are all being monitored many times a second and it could save me an engine someday. Also ease of use comes into it, the link is wonderful to navigate, so much nicer to use than say my Hondata S300 and the ability to add external features such as warning lights, boost select switches, data logging, display outputs is very useful. Having the boost control built in is a massive benefit also and saves running an external controller, plus the boost control software is really nice and also allows you to run boost by gear. You could setup traction control if you have the right sensors. Only things I had to add on mine was internal knock control at £150 and OBDII at £75, everything else was already there. I take the view point that if my car and engine setup is the best I can have, I also want to ECU to be the best I can have, no point spending £15k on an engine setup and skimping for a £300 ECU for example.

Of course none if this matters if the person tuning is not good, that will always be the main concern.

 

[svensktoppen]

You can argue knock sensors and all the rest of it as long as you like, but it means the sum total of nothing at all if all of that isn't calibrated correctly.

All of that is used by big manufacturers to cope with huge variations in fuel quality and operating conditions around the world. They spend years calibrating that. For each car and engine. Thinking a tuner can do the same is a bit, well, shall we say optimistic.

Either work off a standard ECU retaining all factory calibration, from cold start to dealing with differences in fuel quality and operating conditions, and just modify the fuelling map. Knowing there is a limit how far you can go.

Or point map to a specific set of fuel and conditions (or a small set of combinations with selectable maps) using whatever ECU takes your fancy.

Other features like data logging - fair enough. But you can get the same with, say, a data logger...

The main choice is whether it is a car for daily use in the real world, where you might have to use the odd tank of lower octane fuel because it's what is available, or start in -5 on occasion, or whatever.

Or if the goal is getting the absolute maximum at the expense of every day usability.

 

[G N K]

You can argue knock sensors and all the rest of it as long as you like, but it means the sum total of nothing at all if all of that isn't calibrated correctly.

All of that is used by big manufacturers to cope with huge variations in fuel quality and operating conditions around the world. They spend years calibrating that. For each car and engine. Thinking a tuner can do the same is a bit, well, shall we say optimistic.

Either work off a standard ECU retaining all factory calibration, from cold start to dealing with differences in fuel quality and operating conditions, and just modify the fuelling map. Knowing there is a limit how far you can go.

Or point map to a specific set of fuel and conditions (or a small set of combinations with selectable maps) using whatever ECU takes your fancy.

Other features like data logging - fair enough. But you can get the same with, say, a data logger...

The main choice is whether it is a car for daily use in the real world, where you might have to use the odd tank of lower octane fuel because it's what is available, or start in -5 on occasion, or whatever.

Or if the goal is getting the absolute maximum at the expense of every day usability.

Blah blah blah, as long as it's yellow eh?

 

[svensktoppen]

Lol, indeed

 

[Eager]

Half the boys running a tuned car with fancy ecu’s wouldn miss 50bhp between tunes, but as long as the graph has a decent number there happy.
My red r34 made 290bhp recently. 290! It was sold as a 400bhp car. Lol. Had link tho Someone had been messing with it since I owned it, messed up the actuator, messed up the map. It’s now back to 370odd that I sold it with years ago. It was never a 400bhp car lol

Attached graph showing before and after.

Buy what ecu your most preferred tuner wants to use. A good tune will make you want to drive a car, a bad one will make ya want to burn it.

 

[EF Ian]

All of that is used by big manufacturers to cope with huge variations in fuel quality and operating conditions around the world. They spend years calibrating that. For each car and engine. Thinking a tuner can do the same is a bit, well, shall we say optimistic.

This could be an argument for getting a good ecu. A good ecu with good software can account for so many different variables in correction tables.

The one thing that can't be accounted for that well is fuel quality, yes knock control can cut ignition back if it detects a problem from running a very low octane fuel, you don't really want to rely on this for long though. Thats why you are best to tune on a slightly lower quality fuel than you expect to run unless you are really pushing for max power. This of course is one reason you can gain power over stock with a tune as manufacturers tunes will often be setup to account for these things. If you know you are only ever going to have 97 - 99 octane fuel in your car then theres power to be gained over a map that has been made to allow for much lower octane fuels.

Buy what ecu your most preferred tuner wants to use. A good tune will make you want to drive a car, a bad one will make ya want to burn it.

So True