I would imagine you’d be best with an engine builder who could also tune it. Any other way and one will blame the other.... that’s life
Who do you use? And what’s the car built for?
Any builder or tuner will have had an issue at some point. It might be a component failure, or the customer says "get every last drop out of it", or someone else built it, or just **** happens or whatever. Then the rumour mill kicks into overdrive as usual, nobody has a clue what actually happened or even if anything did happen, just "all their engines blow up".
Just make sure whoever builds it also maps it, that way there is no argument. And be clear about if you want it reliable or want to tune the life out of it, etc.
If a true carbide drill isnt doing it.....it'll be machine shop time. Maybe spark erosion or something ? But tapping aluminium....you shouldnt be breaking taps !
The wheels....are the faces that touch the front/rear sections powdercoated ? Is that normal ?
Powdercoating is soft, it will squish, generally anything that goes face to face, it is best not to have powdercoat on it.
If a true carbide drill isnt doing it.....it'll be machine shop time. Maybe spark erosion or something ? But tapping aluminium....you shouldnt be breaking taps !
The wheels....are the faces that touch the front/rear sections powdercoated ? Is that normal ?
Powdercoating is soft, it will squish, generally anything that goes face to face, it is best not to have powdercoat on it.
This will probably sound gash but I've used masonry nails to break up taps that have broken off in blind holes before. I didn't have access to drills hard enough to try and clean it out that way so I just chipped away at it with obo nails and it broke up pretty easily because it was so brittle. They were the only thing I had in the garage that was as hard as the tap. Bit chancy alright but gets the debris out so you can insert it or whatever. Done it a couple of times now and it's worked fine.Busying myself in the Background preparing the Engine, Gearbox & Wheels for Race Rubber.
@PeteMoore had prepared some parts for me, closing up parts of the waterpump, blocking pipes for environmental crap, Fuel Rail Fittings & Removing Oil caps and Battery terminal from the rocker covers.
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This Allowed me to start and transfer the Sump system etc from the old M62 engine and finalise the oil pump mounts, sort the fuel rails and induction trumpets, filters etc.
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Final few jobs before the engine goes to Wicklow for a check over and tuney bits..
Currently waiting on the flywheel to be made so I can mount the gearbox, measure for a new input shaft & also build up the clutch to have a spacer machined to set the slave cylinder clearance so all is ready to bolt into the shell when it returns.
Due to the tight fit of exhaust manifolds I have had to remove the studs from the head, and convert the bolts, obviously the threads in the alloy head would not last long, so I installed helicoils at each exhaust pick up, typical for the Tap to break in the head on the last stud
So in the Process now of trying to remove it.. Trying with Carbide drills, anyone else can anyone advise if this is the best drill for removing hardened steel?
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Oh and the new wheels are machined up for Grp4 fitment, Powder coated and ready to be bolted together for a trial fit
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11.5" Rears with 5" Dish
This will probably sound gash but I've used masonry nails to break up taps that have broken off in blind holes before. I didn't have access to drills hard enough to try and clean it out that way so I just chipped away at it with obo nails and it broke up pretty easily because it was so brittle. They were the only thing I had in the garage that was as hard as the tap. Bit chancy alright but gets the debris out so you can insert it or whatever. Done it a couple of times now and it's worked fine.
Not sure if this would work,Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?
Yeah it would, but where would you source freeze spray?